VALAHORUM | Apogeum | Feteasca Neagra | 2017
feteasca neagra
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Today we are going to review a a legendary, single-varietal feteasca neagra wine, that is considered by many to be one of the best FN wines from the famous Dealu Mare appellation of Romania – Valahorum Apogeum Feteasca Neagra 2017 by Crama Apogeum (Tohani). Feteasca Neagra is an indigenous romanian variety that has been grown for hundreds of years on substantial plantings in the south of Moldova and eastern Muntenia and today, it is the most famous red variety in Romania. Wines made from feteasca neagra grapes are usually fruit-forward, complex and structured, wines that often are compared to merlot and cabernet franc, mostly due to their body, robust tannins and elegant textures. There is a rising demand for feteasca neagra wines on the regional as well as on the international markets and many wine experts consider this variety to be the visit card of romanian wines. Today’s wine is made of grapes that were sourced from 50-years old feteasca neagra vines, grown in a natural amphitheater in Dealu Mare on brown and calcareous soils. In order to preserve the varietal characteristics of the feteasca neagra grapes, Virgil Mândru, the winemaker, applied an ancestral, 2000-years old method of fermenting the grape must in clay amphora vessels. After the fermentation, the wine has been aged for 24 months in french oak barriques, followed by another 12 months of ageing in the bottle, before being released on the market. The 2017 vintage is at its 7th edition and was produced in a limited edition of only 7650 bottles. That said and without further ado, let’s take a look at the wine tasting results.
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Take a look at the tasting notes below and our detailed assessment of the wine:
//Visual
color: deep ruby color
clarity: hazy ruby shades
//Olfactory
intensity: pronounced & oaky
fruit character: ripe & overripe
On the nose, the wine offers a burst of ripe and overripe black fruit aromas, dominated by notes of blackberry, dark cherry and plum. Hints of oak peek through in the background, adding a touch of roasted oakwood and tobacco that add extra complexity. As the wine opens up, subtle earthy and sweet spice notes emerge, mingling with hints of cloves, nutmeg, hints of pencil lead and black soil dust, adding a layer of sophistication to the aromatic profile.
//Palate
sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: good
finish: medium+ | aftertaste: crisp & rich
The wine’s palate mirrors the nose with an explosion of ripe and overripe black fruit flavors. Hints of oak and baking spice add a layer of complexity, while the wine’s crisp acidity cuts through the richness of the fruit, creating a lively and mouthwatering sensation on the palate, supported by slightly grippy but ripe tannins, that provide structure. A noticeable touch of alcoholic warmth adds power and depth, but doesn’t overpower the overall wine balance, leading to a rich and slightly seedy aftertaste. This is a ripe and quite expressive feteasca neagra wine, with a firm structure and complex mouthfeel.
//Verdict
maturity: almost there | drink now or in the next 2 years
verdict: great | a must try wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary
All in all, this wine offers a bold and rich expression of the feteasca neagra grape variety. The nose and palate boast of ripe and overripe black fruit flavors, supported by noble oak and baking spice notes. The crisp acidity keeps the wine lively and balanced, while the ripe tannins provide a well-structured frame. Although the noticeable alcoholic warmth adds power, it doesn’t overshadow the fruit. This is a fruit-forward wine that lacks just a bit of the varietal typicity that feteasca neagra is famous for. That said, this is a nicely balanced and well structured wine, that will appeal to those wine enthusiasts who prefer a bolder and richer expression (a new world style) of what this grape variety is capable to deliver.
//Scoring
VALAHORUM | Apogeum | Feteasca Neagra | 2017
variety: feteasca neagra
country: Romania
region: Muntenia | Dealu Mare
rating: 94.0
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This is definitely a great wine of Romania and, with a total of 94.0 points scored, this wine is right there, among the best wines we’ve rated so far. Check our complete database on the wine rating page, where you can find all the wines that we have tasted and reviewed or go to the about us page and find out more about our exquisite rating system.
Pairing: Judging by the wine‘s bold fruit character and well-structured mouthfeel, we believe it will pair lovely with grilled meats or savory stews. Consider pairing it with grilled sausages or greek lamb chops. The smoky and savory flavors of the grilled meats will complement the fruitiness of the wine, while the richness of the sausage or lamb will stand up to the wine’s robust tannins. For a heartier option, pair this wine with a mushroom and sage stew, as the earthy character of the mushrooms will resonate with the spicy hints in the wine, while the sage will add a textural contrast to the wine’s smooth mouthfeel. This pairing will showcase the wine’s versatility and complement its expressive, fruit-forward profile. Enjoy!
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© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation.
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By training ourselves to stop, take a breath, and pay attention to the subtle elements that distinguish one wine from any other, we learn an important lesson about life – that it’s worth taking the time to slow down and appreciate things that pleases us, from a glass of wine to a great work of art. It’s a simple way to learn to appreciate the little things in life that may in some small way enhance our enjoyment of every day.
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WineStatistics is a non-profit community. We produce independent and highly detailed wine reviews.
By training ourselves to stop, take a breath, and pay attention to the subtle elements that distinguish one wine from any other, we learn an important lesson about life – that it’s worth taking the time to slow down and appreciate things that pleases us, from a glass of wine to a great work of art. It’s a simple way to learn to appreciate the little things in life that may in some small way enhance our enjoyment of every day.
In order to continue our work we need support from people like you. People who appreciate our contribution in spreading wine knowledge and raising wine awareness across the borders.
You may now support us by contributing with a monthly donation so that we can review even more wines.
WineStatistics is a non-profit community. We produce independent and highly detailed wine reviews.
By training ourselves to stop, take a breath, and pay attention to the subtle elements that distinguish one wine from any other, we learn an important lesson about life – that it’s worth taking the time to slow down and appreciate things that pleases us, from a glass of wine to a great work of art. It’s a simple way to learn to appreciate the little things in life that may in some small way enhance our enjoyment of every day.
In order to continue our work we need support from people like you. People who appreciate our contribution in spreading wine knowledge and raising wine awareness across the borders.
You may now support us by contributing with a yearly donation so that we can review even more wines.
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