VIILE METAMORFOSIS | Cantvs Primvs | Merlot | 2020
merlot

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The story of Vitis Metamorfosis begins with a vision to craft exceptional wines that echo the unique terroir of Romania’s Dealu Mare region. Established by a passionate group that includes Giancorrado Ulrich, Fiorenzo Rista, and Marquis Piero Antinori in 2009, the winery aims to produce high-quality wines, with a dedication to tradition and modern techniques. This commitment is evident in the crafting of the Cantvs Primvs project, which translates as ‘the first song’, highlighting the artistic essence of their winemaking philosophy.

Today we are going to review a quite remarkable wine from the Dealu Mare region, which is one of Romania’s most famous wine regions – Cantvs Primvs Merlot 2020 by Vitis Metamorfosis. This wine comes from a region characterized by a temperate-continental climate that supports the ripening of grapes, particularly the merlot variety, known for its fruit-forward profile. Merlot is usually regarded as the underdog to the highly priced cabernet sauvignon or cabernet franc varieties, but make no mistake, merlot wine is first class, as it is more versatile and ripens earlier than both cabernet grapes, responds well to oak ageing and can be grown in both, cool climate and warm climate regions with the same success. The grapes for this wine are sourced from vineyards planted on clay and limestone-rich soils, which contribute to the wine’s depth and richness. The 2020 vintage started with a mild winter and despite some challenges presented by weather events such as spring hail, at the harvest time the resulting grapes had high sugar content and excellent minerality.

//Terroir
The Dealu Mare region benefits from a combination of geographical advantages that define its unique terroir. Located in a hilly landscape, the region’s varied altitudes and slopes, along with its clay and limestone soil compositions, foster excellent drainage and aeration necessary for vine health. The close proximity of the Carpathian Mountains moderates temperature extremes, allowing for a longer growing season. These terroir qualities imbue the merlot grapes with the complexity required for producing premium wines. When compared to other merlot-growing regions, Dealu Mare‘s distinct combination of climate and soil yield a wine of remarkable depth, often showcasing rich fruit with subtle earthy notes.
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That said and without further ado, let’s take a look at the wine tasting results below.

//Visual
color: deep & opaque garnet color
clarity: hazy | noble garnet shades at the rim

The wine displays a deep and opaque garnet color, with hazy garnet shades at the rim of the glass.

//Olfactory
intensity: rich & expressive
fruit character: ripe & overripe

On the nose, the wine is rich and expressive, revealing a ripe and overripe fruit character. The forefront showcases black fruits including dark cherry, black plum, and blackcurrant, complemented by earthy undertones of pencil lead and granite, along with oaky aromas of toasted oakwood and tobacco. Subtle hints of spice, such as peppercorn and tonka seeds, mingle in between, enhancing the wine’s aromatic profile even further.

//Palate
sweetness: dry | acidity: medium+ | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: good
finish: medium- | aftertaste: crisp & seedy

On the palate the wine feels dry, firm and bold, with a nuanced character that showcases its ripe and overripe fruit character. The interplay of crisp acidity and overwhelming alcohol warmth contributes to its full body, while the wine’s grippy texture and slightly heady mouthfeel provides even more structure. The flavor profile echoes the nose, emphasizing the black fruits alongside spicy and earthy undertones. The finish is medium in length, leaving a crisp and seedy aftertaste.

//Verdict
maturity: developing | needs time | drink in 3 to 5 years time
verdict: fine | highly recommended | a wine of premium quality with good potential

Overall, this wine delivers an impressive quality and showcases nice varietal typicity of the merlot grape. Although in its current state it may appear slightly angular and a bit rough, the wine is still in its developing phase, therefore it requires more time to round up and reveal its full potential.

//Pairing
We believe that this wine would pair beautifully with rich and savory dishes, such as a grilled ribeye steak seasoned with rosemary and garlic. The wine’s fruit-forward profile would complement the charred flavors of the meat, thus creating a delightful contrast that would enhance both, the wine’s complexity and the dish’s rich character. Additionally, it can also be enjoyed alongside gourmet gourmet burgers, aged cheeses, or hearty stews, making for an adaptable and versatile choice for various culinary experiences.

//Scoring
VIILE METAMORFOSIS | Cantvs Primvs | Merlot | 2020
variety: merlot
country: Romania | Muntenia
region: Dealu Mare
rating: 93.0
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© Map credits: crameromania.ro

//Fun Facts
The Cantvs Primvs project has been launched in 2009 (which has been inscribed on the label ever since: MMIX) by Giancorrado Ulrich, Fiorenzo Rista and Marquis Piero Antinori, hence its name that translated from latin means ‘the first song’. After consulting with Renzo Cotarella, the Managing Director of Antinori S.P.A., the Dealu Mare area was identified as the region with the most potential in terms of climate and terroir, which was in line with the philosophy of the Antinori family to produce high quality wines in the premium and super-premium segments, similar to the Super Tuscan wines produced by the Antinori.

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© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation.