PURCARI | Viorica de Purcari | 2023
viorica

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The story of Château Purcari traces its origins back to the distant year of 1560 when, by royal decree, Alexandru Lăpușneanu bestowed the Purcari region to the Căpriana Monastery, which at the time was under the protection of the Zografu Monastery of Mount Athos. Thereafter, in 1827, Tsar Nicholas I of Russia issued a decree, leading to the establishment of the first specialized wine estate in Moldova at Purcari.
Today we are going to review a single varietal viorica wine from the relatively warm, Stefan-Voda region in south of Moldova – Viorica de Purcari 2023 by Purcari. Viorica is a rare, light-skinned white grape variety – a hybrid grape, made by crossing the two red varieties, seibel and aleatico – that is little known outside of Moldova, as it is mainly used in production of table wines. It was long considered the visit card of Moldova’s wines, as it is distinguished by an expressive and intense aromatic bouquet, reminiscent of wild flowers and sweet fruits. Viorica was traditionally vinified off-dry or semi-sweet due to its nuanced aromatics, resulting in truly unique and flamboyant wines. But make no mistake here, this is a variety with a strong personality: citrusy-floral on the nose, with a touch of honey in the background – a variety that has only recently been introduced to the international markets where it has been highly appreciated.

The Stefan Voda wine region is distinguished by its diverse landscapes and warm continental climate, which allows for optimal grape ripening, especially suited for red grape varieties. The soil is rich in minerality, comprising clay and loam, that provides excellent drainage and supports vital nutrients for the vine growing. This soil composition, combined with the region’s distinct microclimate, that balances sun exposure with refreshing rainfall and is tempered by the cool breezes from the Black Sea, contributes to the expressive and rich profile of the resulting wines, thus enhancing the wine’s character.

color: pale | pastel-yellow color
clarity: transparent | lemon-yellow hue

The wine showcases a pale, pastel-yellow color, with clear, lemon-yellow hues at the rim.

intensity: pronounced & expressive
fruit character: ripe

On the nose, this wine unveils a pronounced and expressive profile, revealing a ripe fruit character. The foreground is dominated by citrus notes such as bergamot and lime, complemented by floral hints of acacia and elderflower. In the background, green fruits, including gooseberry and green pear, along with herbal scents like nettle and currant leaf, provide a layered olfactory experience that tempts the senses.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: low | balance: good
finish: medium+ | aftertaste: crisp & zesty

On the palate, the wine reveals a round and ample mouthfeel, delivering refreshing notes of citrus and green fruits intertwined with floral undertones. Its dry profile is balanced by crisp acidity and well-integrated alcohol, offering a medium-plus finish with a zesty aftertaste. 

maturity: in its prime | drink now or within a year
verdict: fine | highly recommended | a wine of premium quality

Overall, this is a wine that stands as a well-balanced and harmonious embodiment of the Viorica grape variety, albeit it may lack a touch of finesse and elegance that some wine enthusiasts might be searching for. This is a wine in its prime form, best enjoyed today or within a year.

PURCARI | Viorica de Purcari | 2023
variety: viorica
country: Moldova
region: Stefan Voda
rating: 92.9

To complement the refreshing qualities of this wine, consider pairing it with seafood dishes such as grilled prawns with lime and herbs, or a vibrant goat cheese salad. These dishes would allow the wine’s acidity to cut through the rich flavors and textures, thus creating a harmonious balance on the palate. Cheers!

The Viorica grape variety is little known outside of Moldova, yet it has long stood as a symbol of the country’s viniculture. It is a symbol of Moldova’s winemaking and is known for its resilience to challenging weather conditions, including drought and spring frost, making this wine a true discovery for wine lovers.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!