FÁUTOR | Barbaro | 2019
syrah | tempranillo | cabernet sauvignon | saperavi

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Fáutor Winery is acclaimed for its modern winemaking techniques and commitment to quality, standing among the top wineries in Moldova. Established in the picturesque Valul lui Traian region, the winery blends traditional practices with innovative approaches, utilizing both local and international grape varieties to showcase the intricacies of Valul lui Traian’s unique terroir.
Today we are going to perform a trip into the past and re-evaluate (yet again, after we’ve already reviewed it in 2023 and 2022) a wine that is rightly considered among the best wines of Moldova – Barbaro 2019 by Fáutor Winery. This is the winemaker’s flagship wine – a blend of four grape varieties: syrah, tempranillo, cabernet sauvignon and saperavi, where syrah adds color depth and tannin extract, tempranillo enhances the wine’s structure and enhances the wine’s flavour profile, cabernet sauvignon forms the wine’s main body and adds longevity to the final blend, while saperavi adds up-front richness and rounds up the final blend, making it lusher on the finish. The wine has been aged for 12 months in new french oak barriques, with a couple more years of bottle ageing before it was deemed ready for market release.

Barbaro is a homage to the Valul lui Traian fortifications, whose ruins are still found in the south-west of Moldova. The Valul lui Traian fortifications delimited the eastern borders of the mighty Roman Empire and all the inhabitants beyond those walls were called ‘noble barbarians’.

Valul lui Traian wine region boasts a warm continental climate that is ideal for viticulture, especially suited for red grape varieties. With warm summers and cool winters, this region allows the cultivation of grapes that achieve optimal ripeness yet retain high natural acidity. The soil here is predominantly clay, limestone, and sandy loam, ensuring excellent drainage and nutrient availability to the vines while contributing minerality to the wines. Compared to similar wines from other regions, those from Valul lui Traian showcase a robust aromatic intensity brought by the unique climatic and soil characteristics of the region.

color: deep & opaque ruby color
clarity: hazy | ruby shades at the rim

The wine presents a deep ruby color, enriched by subtle ruby-purple reflections, suggesting both youthfulness and profound concentration.

intensity: pronounced & oaky
fruit character: ripe & dried

On the nose, the wine is aromatically expressive with pronounced intensity. It opens up with lush notes of ripe plums, dark cherries, and candied red berries, layered with complex aromas of dried roses, cedar wood, and herbal hints. The oak aging adds delightful touches of cocoa, chocolate, and spices, creating a harmonious aromatic experience that evolves with each swirl.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: good
finish: medium+ | aftertaste: seedy & crisp

The palate reveals a well-balanced and robust structure, showcasing grippy tannins that complement its medium to full body. The wine’s flavour complexity boasts with sophistication, resonating with the nose, echoing ripe dark fruits alongside subtle earthy tones, while the finish is lingering with a spicy and oaky accent. The wine’s texture is inviting, with a balance that maintains vibrancy and richness without overpowering.

maturity: developing | drink now or in the next 2 years
verdict: fine | highly recommended | a wine of premium quality with good potential

Overall, this wine maintains remarkable complexity and depth, making it an enjoyable experience from the first sip to the last. It is a truly exceptional wine, reflecting quality and craftsmanship. It is currently in the developing phase, which suggests that it is still capable of further ageing, ideally 2 more years, which will reveal more elegant and integrated flavors, enhancing its finesse and complexity as time progresses.

FÁUTOR | Barbaro | 2019
variety: syrah | tempranillo | cabernet sauvignon | saperavi
country: Moldova
region: Valul lui Traian
rating: 93.9

This exquisite wine would pair beautifully with rich dishes such as rosemary-garlic flank steak or a peppercorn-crusted tomahawk steak, where the wine’s robust fruit and oak nuances would harmonize with the hearty flavors of the meat. The spiciness and texture of the steak will complement the wine’s complex flavor profile, providing a memorable dining experience that showcases both the food and wine.

Fáutor Winery is recognized as one of the most awarded wineries in Moldova, highlighting its dedication to high-quality winemaking. The careful integration of international grape varieties alongside indigenous ones demonstrates Moldova’s potential as a significant producer of quality wines on the global wine scene.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!