VARIAS | Cuvée Imperial | Gran Reserva | Brut Nature | 2009
xarello | macabeo | chardonnay

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Cava Varias is a historic winery boasting over a century of experience in producing exceptional Cava wines. Located in the heart of Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, recognized as the capital of Cava, the winery is driven by a profound passion for creating high-quality sparkling wines. Cava Varias prides itself on harmonizing traditional production methods with modern innovations, ensuring that each bottle represents the winery’s dedication to sustainability and excellence. Their rich heritage in Cava production is coupled with a commitment to enhance the unique flavor profiles derived from their meticulous vineyard practices.
Tonight we are going to review a genuine Cava sparkling wine from Sant Sadurní d’Anoia region of Spain – Cuvée Imperial Gran Reserva Brut Nature 2009 by Cava Varias. This wine is a harmonious blend of three grape varieties: xarello (60%), macabeo (30%) and chardonnay (30%), where xarello (often spelled as ‘xarel·lo’ and known also as pansa blanca) forms the wine’s main body and structure, macabeo (spelled also as maccabéo or maccabeu and known in Rioja as viura) adds up-front richness and a touch of floral character, whereas chardonnay builds a more refined mid-palate and brings slightly more complexity to the final blend. The wine is produced using the authentic méthode traditionelle technique, the same way the famous french Champagne is made, with second fermentation in the bottle, where the wine then spends a staggering 120 months (yes-yes, there’s no mistake here, this wine has 10 long years of bottle ageing) on fine lees (sur lie ageing), which allowed it to develop extra complexity and the much desired creaminess on the palate. Also, this is a so called millésime sparkling wine, which means that it was created from a single harvest, that of the distant 2009 – a true vintage wine indeed.

Cava is the spanish answer to the famous french Champagne wine and the more one explores Cava, the more parallels are found with Champagne. Most Cava on the market is the basic-level Cava Brut, but like in Champagne, Cava has a well defined classification system that defines the minimum ageing on lees for its upper levels: Reserva and Gran Reserva. Generally speaking, the longer the wine ages on fine lees, the more toasty and nutty aromas it will develop. Well-aged, vintage Gran Reserva Cava sparkling wines (like the one we are reviewing today) are similar to Vintage Champagne in both, style and complexity.

The Sant Sadurní d’Anoia area is characterized by its mediterranean climate, which is ideally suited for grape growing, with its warm and dry summers that are seamlessly blending into mild and wet winters. This micro-region fosters optimal conditions for cultivating white grape varieties used in most of the Cava wines, with the vineyards situated in a diverse topography of hills and valleys, that aid airflow and water drainage. The soil composition comprises clay, limestone, and chalk, wile the varied elevations allow for moisture retention, which is essential for the development of flavours.

color: deep amber color
clarity: bright golden hues

In the glass this wine displays a deep amber color with bright golden shades at the rim of the glass. The wine’s clarity is remarkable, but the color is suggestive of age and maybe oxidation.

intensity: rich & mature
fruit character: dried & dehydrated

The olfactory experience is rich and mature, showcasing a prominent accent of dried fruits. Foreground aromas include dehydrated quince and a nuanced touch of yeasty notes, that harmonize with sweet hints of raisins, honey, and white cherry jam. In the background, dark bread notes are complemented by baking spices, such as rye grains and coriander seeds, which intertwine with subtle oxidation notes, creating a quite complex aromatic landscape.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: low | balance: fair
finish: medium | aftertaste: crisp & flat

On the palate, the wine presents a seedy, firm, and crisp texture. The dried fruit character continues here as well, complemented by nuanced yeasty flavors. The wine feels dry, exhibiting bright acidity that is balanced by a well-integrated touch of alcoholic warmth. The aftertaste is crisp yet slightly flat, revealing a pleasantly-seedy mouthfeel that maintains interest throughout.

maturity: past its prime | on the decline | drink now or last year
verdict: nice | enjoyable & good | a well made wine that lacks elegance and finesse

Overall, this wine reveals a fully mature profile, with hints of aged oxidation, indicating that it is possibly past its prime. Nevertheless, it remains a testament to tradition and craftsmanship, offering a distinctive taste experience that embodies the essence of the Gran Reserva Cava style. Its current state suggests that it is best enjoyed sooner rather than later in order to appreciate its subtleties fully without much regret.

VARIAS | Cuvée Imperial | Gran Reserva | Brut Nature | 2009
variety: xarello | macabeo | chardonnay
country: Spain
region: Cava | Sant Sadurní d’Anoia
rating: 91.5

To elevate your tasting experience, pair this stunning Gran Reserva Cava wine with dishes that present a contrast to its crisp and flat finish. Consider rich seafood dishes like lobster or scallops with buttery sauces, or even light poultry dishes enhanced with citrus-based salsas. The vibrant acidity and complex flavors of the wine make it a versatile companion for a range of culinary delights.

Cava Varias’ commitment to excellence positions it as a respected name within the vibrant Cava community. The region’s history is rich with traditions in sparkling wine production, and it is home to numerous famed wineries that share a similar passion for creating exceptional wines that tell the story of their heritage.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!