TELMO RODRÍGUEZ | Gago | 2016
tempranillo | albillo mayor

© We will be evaluating wines in no particular order on no particular schedule. Just stay tuned and you will never miss our reviews. If the wine is tasted more than once, the rating table will be updated so as to reflect all the new impressions and observations. We hope you will enjoy it!

Telmo Rodríguez, a pioneer in spanish viticulture, has built a reputation for producing wines that can reflect their terroir. His commitment to quality starts in the vineyard with the sourcing of the grapes from old, low-density bush vines in the Toro region. The winery advocates for minimal intervention during winemaking, allowing the distinctive characteristics of each grape variety and the region’s unique terroir to shine through.
Today we are going to review a very special wine from one of Spain‘s less famous wine regions – the mighty Toro (a sub-region of Castille & León) – Gago 2016 by Telmo Rodríguez. This wine is technically a blend, made mostly of tempranillo (known locally as ‘tinta de toro‘) with a dash of albillo mayor (which is a white grape variety known locally as ‘albiño mayor‘), the same way as the winemakers are blending syrah with viognier in some of the Northern Rhone regions (a modern tradition that can be traced to Côte-Rôtie).

Tempranillo is a spanish grape variety that for a long time was ignored by the outside world as a slightly rustic grape of strictly local appeal. Nowadays, tempranillo is recognized as a noble grape variety that can make firm, bold and age-worthy wines. It is the main grape variety of red Rioja wines and is known under several aliases: tinto fino or tinto del país in the Ribera del Duero region, tinta de toro in the Toro region, cencibel and valdepeñas in Valdepeñas and Manchuela regions, ull de llebre and ojo de liebre in Catalonia and finally tinta roriz and aragonês in Portugal. When the right tempranillo clone is grown on the right spot of land, without excessive yields and with real care, it can produce incredibly age-worthy wines.

In this wine, the tempranillo grape (known for its robust nature and good aging potential) builds the structure and brings depth to the wine, while the small amount of albillo mayor adds floral notes to the wine’s aromatic profile, thus adding complexity to this splendid blend. In order to soften the tannins and add a layer of extra complexity to the final wine, but at the same time, to preserve the varietal characteristic of the tempranillo grape variety, the wine has been fermented in large (6000 liters) oak barrels using only indigenous yeasts, then aged for 14 months in large oak foudres (80%) and small oak barriques (20%), with some additional bottle ageing before it was deemed ready for the market release.

Toro D.O. is characterized by its red sandy soils that are rich in loam, clay and gravel. The climate here is continental, providing a wide temperature range that helps in developing rich aromatic compounds in the grapes, with a long growing season that allows the berries to ripen fully while still retaining natural acidity. Toro‘s geographical conditions, coupled with its rich soils, significantly improve concentration of flavour and body structure in the resulting wines. This unique terroir characteristics yields wines with high intensity when compared to those from other warm regions.

color: medium-deep ruby color
clarity: hazy garnet shades at the rim

In the glass, the wine presents a medium-deep ruby color, with hazy garnet shades at the rim.

intensity: pronounced & expressively-fruity
fruit character: ripe

The aromatic profile is rich and expressively-fruity, dominated by ripe red fruits such as cherry, plum, and cranberry. There are earthy undertones of clay and loam, complemented by subtle oak-derived notes of sun-dried wood and a spicy lift with red pepper hints. The aromatic complexity reveals both primary and secondary characteristics, creating an inviting bouquet.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: good
finish: medium- | aftertaste: crispy-astringent

On the palate, the wine feels ample, rich, and heady, carrying over the ripe fruit character observed on the nose, enhanced by warm spice and oak-derived flavors. It is dry, marked by crisp acidity and a noticeable warmth from alcohol. The mouthfeel is seedy and grippy, with well-structured and astringent tannins, thus providing balance and depth.

maturity: developing | drink now or age for another 3 to 4 years
verdict: fine | highly recommended | a wine of premium quality with good potential

Overall, this wine delivers impressive depth and displays amazing varietal typicity of the tempranillo grape variety. While it can be enjoyed today, the wine is still in its development phase and therefore holds great potential for aging, likely improving further over the next 3 to 4 years as the acidity and tannins requires more time to round up and soften in order to reveal the wine’s true potential.

TELMO RODRÍGUEZ | Gago | 2016
variety: tempranillo | albillo mayor
country: Spain
region: Castille & León | Toro
rating: 93.9

Consider pairing this wine with roasted lamb or grilled ribeye steak, where its firm structure would stand up to the bold flavors in the dish. Also, the wine’s bright acidity would cut nicely through the fat and richness of the meat, creating an incredibly harmonious wine tasting experience.

Gago is considered the flagship wine of the Toro region, marking the legacy of Telmo Rodríguez as a champion of authenticity. The focus on old vines and traditional winemaking techniques contributes to its status among wine enthusiasts and collectors alike.

This robust wine encapsulates the rich viticultural heritage of the Toro region and the meticulous craft of winemaking that Telmo Rodríguez embodies, making Gago a true classic and one of its kind.

RP rating: 93

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!