SUSANA BALBO | Signature | Malbec | 2019
malbec | merlot

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Susana Balbo is a pioneering figure in the wine history of Argentina, as she was the first female winemaker in the country. She combines her profound knowledge of the terroir with innovative winemaking practices, striving to create the finest expressions of argentinean wines. Her dedication to excellence is reflected in the Signature line, where she carefully selects the best vineyard parcels to craft wines of exceptional quality.
Today we are going to review a true classic from the Uco Valley, which is one of Argentina‘s most famous sub-regions of Mendoza – Signature Malbec 2019 by Susana Balbo. Although the label says that this is a single-varietal malbec wine, technically it is a blend, made of 96% malbec and 4% merlot grape varieties, where malbec forms the wine’s main body and structure, whereas merlot builds a more refined mid-palate and offers a more dynamic finish.

The grapes are sourced from the Paraje Altamira vineyards, planted at 1150 meters altitude on south and south-west facing slopes, in the Valle de Uco sub-region of Mendoza.  In order to soften the tannins and add a layer of extra complexity to the final blend, the wine has been aged for 13 months in a selection of french oak barrels (from which 30% new oak and the other 70% barrels at second-use), with additional bottle ageing before it is deemed ready for the market release.

Known for its plump dark fruit flavors and smoky finish, malbec wines have been adored for centuries, especially by the royal houses of England and Russia. With elegant notes of blueberry, plum, tobacco and hints of violets, modern malbec wines offers a great alternative to its higher priced siblings: merlot, cabernet sauvignon or syrah. Although the malbec grape variety originated in the famous Cahors region of France, Argentina proved that there’s more to malbec than just value, as it can offer an unmatched complexity and elegance, especially when produced in that expressive, new-world style, with a nuanced, rich and juicy, fruit-forward character.

The unique geographical conditions of the Uco Valley contribute significantly to the distinctiveness of most of the malbec wines produced here. The arid climate coupled with the high-altitudes is ideal for viticulture, promoting the production of high-quality grapes. The vineyards  planted at high-altitudes benefit from abundant sunlight during the day and cool temperatures at night, thus creating a high diurnal range, which preserves natural acidity and develops aromatic complexity in the healthy grapes. The soil is predominantly alluvial, rich in sand and loam, with good drainage that supports deep root growth. Compared to the malbec wines from the lower regions, those from Uco Valley typically exhibit greater freshness, vibrancy, and complexity.

color: very deep & opaque ruby color
clarity: purple & indigo shades at the rim

The wine presents a very deep and opaque ruby color with purple-indigo hues at the rim of the glass. Its dense appearance indicates a rich and concentrated wine.

intensity: rich & confied
fruit character: overripe & cooked

On the nose, this wine exudes richness and nuance, where notes of black fruits, like dark cherry and black plum, are evident, complemented by nuances of confit fruit and cooked plum. The olfactory profile also includes hints of spice, such as nutmeg and anise, alongside subtle earthy characteristics of black soil dust and pencil lead. Underneath, subtle oak-derived aromas provide a layer of toasted oakwood and tobacco. That being said, the wine reveals hints of some kind of damage, most probably by extensive heat, as it presents some subtle signs of a defect, especially related to that cooked and confied character of the fruit.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: fair
finish: short | aftertaste: seedy-acrid

The mouthfeel is plush and unbalanced, marked by an exuberant acidity. Flavors of overripe black fruits dominate, alongside spicy notes of tobacco and leather. The tannins are ripe, offering firm structure without being aggressive. The alcohol is falling off the balance with its overwhelming dominance. The finish is short, with a seedy and slightly acrid aftertaste. Similarly to the nose, the palate also showcases some angularity and a heady character, which is most probably related to the suggested heat damage.

maturity: damaged | overcooked | drink now | do not age
verdict: nice | enjoyable & good | a well made wine that lacks elegance and finesse

Overall, this is a heady, seedy and unbalanced malbec wine with a nuanced overcooked character that most probably is the result of a heat damage that the wine sustained during the long journey from South America to Europe or due to improper storage. The wine lacks any form of harmony or finesse on the palate, and it feels quite angular and even brutal at times, without traces of the local terroir or any characteristics of the grape variety, therefore either enjoy it today or hope to get an unspoiled bottle.

SUSANA BALBO | Signature | Malbec | 2019
variety: malbec | merlot
country: Argentina
region: Mendoza | Uco Valley | Paraje Altamira
rating: 91.1

For a perfect pairing, consider dishes that complement the wine’s robustness. A slow-braised lamb shank or a hearty beef stew would create a delightful harmony, as the savory elements of the dish would align beautifully with the wine’s robust structure. Alternatively, a simple grilled steak topped with a herbaceous sauce would highlight the wine’s fruit character while contrasting with its firm tannins and angular nature.

Susana Balbo is not only Argentina’s first female winemaker, but she is also recognized for her innovative approach to winemaking. She actively experiments with various fermentation vessels and techniques in her winery, continuously pushing the boundaries of traditional methods to enhance the expression of her wines.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!