CASTEL MIMÍ | The Governor | Feteasca Neagra | 2019
feteasca neagra

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Castel Mimí has a rich history, dating back for 130 years, rooted in the vision of its creator, Constantin Mimi, who is credited with founding the first winery in Moldova. He pioneered innovative winemaking methods that reshaped the industry, ensuring that modern techniques complement traditional practices. Today, the estate continues to honor this legacy by producing wines that embody quality and excellence.
Today we are going to review a single-varietal feteasca neagra wine from the Codru wine region of Moldova – The Governor Feteasca Neagra 2019 by Castel Mimí. Feteasca Neagra is an indigenous romanian grape variety that has been grown for hundreds of years on substantial plantings in the south of Moldova and eastern Muntenia and today, this is the most famous red variety in Romania. Wines made from feteasca neagra grapes are usually fruit-forward, complex and structured, wines that often are compared to merlot and cabernet franc, mostly due to their body, robust tannins and elegant textures. There is a rising demand for feteasca neagra wines on the regional as well as on the international markets and many wine experts consider this variety to be the visit card of romanian wines.

This wine is produced in a limited edition of 8555 bottles and is part of the ‘The Governor‘ wine series, that is a homage to the winery’s founder, Constantin Mimi – the last governor of the Bessarabia province. The grapes for this wine were sourced from the Speia microregion that is situated near the banks of the Dniester River in the south-east of Moldova, under the Codru IGP. After the fermentation, the wine has been aged for 16 months in French oak barriques (100% new oak by Radoux Omega) in order to enhance complexity and depth of flavors, with additional bottle ageing before it was deemed ready to be released on the market.

The Codru wine region has a moderate continental climate and a diverse array of loamy and clay soils, providing an ideal environment for grape growing. The altitude and microclimate of this wine region boasts moderate rainfall and is influenced by the Carpathian cool winds as well as the Black Sea breezes. The region is characterized by its diverse soil composition, which provide excellent drainage and minerality, while the warm summers and cold winters ensure that the grapes receive ample sunlight, encouraging ripening, thus contributing to the wine’s retention of flavors, resulting in a rich flavor profile.
color: medium-deep garnet color
clarity: hazy copper shades at the rim

In the glass, the wine showcases a medium-deep garnet color with hazy copper shades at the rim of the glass, which are indicative of the wine’s age.

intensity: rich & mature
fruit character: dried & dehydrated

On the nose, this wine presents a rich and mature aromatic profile, with pronounced notes of dried fruits such as cranberries, cherries, and prunes. The foreground is complemented by elegant hints of oak with notes of tobacco, cloves, toasted wood, and a subtle touch of cherry tree sap, while delicate spicy and earthy notes of nutmeg, anise, and brown soil round out the bouquet adding depth and complexity.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: medium+ | balance: good
finish: medium | aftertaste: seedy-crisp

On the palate, the wine feels dry, with exuberant acidity, and an overwhelming touch of alcoholic warmth that provides a well-structured backbone. Ripe, yet seedy tannins further enhance the texture, leading to a crisp and appealingly-seedy aftertaste that reflects the wine’s complexity and depth, forming a rich and ample mouthfeel that leaves you craving for yet another sip.

maturity: fully mature | drink now or within a year
verdict: fine | highly recommended | a wine of premium quality

Overall, this is an impressive example of a fully mature feteasca neagra wine, showcasing rich, dried fruit characteristics on the nose and a harmonious structure on the palate. Currently at its prime, the wine can be enjoyed today or within the next year, as it is better to drink a wine a year to soon than a day too late.

CASTEL MIMÍ | The Governor | Feteasca Neagra | 2019
variety: feteasca neagra
country: Moldova
region: Codru
rating: 93.5

Consider pairing this wine with with extra rare or even blue steaks dressed with sweet cherry sauce, or a medium-rare duck breast served with cranberry jam sauce and sweet potato. This pairings would create a mesmerizing explosion of flavours and textures, thus leading to a memorable wine tasting experience.

An interesting tidbit about Castel Mimí is that its founder, Constantin Mimi, was not only a key figure in establishing the basis for viticulture in Moldova, but also implemented winemaking techniques that were revolutionary for his time, paving the way for the modern moldovan wine industry.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!