FÁUTOR | Barbaro | 2019
syrah | tempranillo | cabernet sauvignon | saperavi

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Fáutor Winery, located in the picturesque village of Romănești (Leova district, Moldova), is acclaimed for its modern winemaking techniques and commitment to quality, standing tall among the top wineries in Moldova. Established in the famous Valul lui Traian wine region, the winery blends traditional practices with innovative approaches, utilizing both local and international grape varieties under the leadership of winemaker Tatiana Croitoru, the winery aims to showcase the unique characteristics of Valul lui Traian’s terroir, while also respecting the environment and the local centenary traditions.
Today we are going to perform a trip into the past and re-evaluate (for one last time, after we’ve already reviewed it in 2022, 2023 and 2024) a wine that is rightly considered among the best wines of Moldova – Barbaro 2019 by Fáutor Winery. This is the winemaker’s flagship wine – a blend of four grape varieties: syrah, tempranillo, cabernet sauvignon and saperavi, where syrah forms the wine’s main body and adds color depth, tempranillo enhances the wine’s structure and enriches the wine’s flavour profile, cabernet sauvignon brings more tannin extract and adds longevity to the final blend, while saperavi delivers up-front richness and brings to the forefront those famous peppery notes. All the grapes are sourced from the Valul lui Traian wine region, which is renowned for its favorable to viticulture climate, characterized by long sunny days and cool nights, that allows for a long growing season, making it an ideal place for growing thick-skinned grape varieties like tempranillo or syrah. The final blend was aged for 12 months in french oak barriques, with additional bottle ageing time before it was deemed ready for market release.

Barbaro is a homage to the Valul lui Traian fortifications, whose ruins are still found in the south-west of Moldova. The Valul lui Traian fortifications delimited the eastern borders of the mighty Roman Empire and all the inhabitants beyond those walls were called ‘noble barbarians’.

Valul lui Traian wine region boasts a warm continental climate that is ideal for viticulture, especially suited for red grape varieties. The region’s geography forms a harmonious balance between warm summer days and cool nights, which is essential for achieving optimal ripeness and for the development of rich flavors in the grapes. The soil here is predominantly clay, limestone, and a bit of sandy loam, ensuring excellent drainage and providing the necessary nutrients to the vines, ideal for cultivating high-quality grapes. Compared to similar wines from other regions, those from Valul lui Traian region are capable to showcase a robust aromatic intensity brought by the unique climatic and soil characteristics of the region.

color: deep & opaque ruby color
clarity: hazy crimson-ruby shades

In the glass, the wine presents a deep and opaque ruby color with hazy crimson shades at the rim.

intensity: pronounced & oaky-expressive
fruit character: ripe & dehydrated

On the nose, the wine is pronounced and oaky-expressive, offering a complex aromatic profile that is dominated by ripe black fruits, including blackberry, dark cherry, and black plum, accompanied by rich notes of toasted oak, tobacco, and liquorice. Hints of spice, including black pepper, cloves and nutmeg, meld harmoniously with subtle earthy undertones of pencil lead and granite dust, creating a sophisticated olfactory experience that invites further exploration.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: good
finish: long | aftertaste: crisp & rich

The palate reveals a rich, nuanced, and expressive character, showcasing a well-structured mouthfeel that embodies the wine’s complexity. The wine feels dry, with exuberant acidity and a notable touch of alcoholic warmth. The ripe and fine-grained tannins contribute to a pleasantly-seedy texture on the mouthfeel, leading to a crisp and rich aftertaste that lingers beautifully for quite a while.

maturity: almost there | drink now or within the next 2 years
verdict: great | a must try wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

Overall, this is a bold, crisp, and ample wine blend with a round and pleasantly-seedy mouthfeel. Currently in an excellent drinking window, the wine can be enjoyed today or within the next 2 years, during which the wine will develop extra depth and aromatic sophistication. This is a fine example of what Moldova can offer in terms of bold red wines, showcasing high natural acidity and that enchanting spiciness of the saperavi grape variety, making it one of the finest offerings from this region.

For a perfect pairing, consider enjoying this wine with grilled meats, hearty stews, or aged cheeses. Rich dishes, such as rosemary-garlic flank steak or peppercorn-crusted tomahawk steak, would harmonize beautifully with the wine’s robust nature and vibrant flavor profile, which would enhance the overall wine tasting experience with an explosion of flavours and textures. Cheers!
FÁUTOR | Barbaro | 2019
variety: syrah | tempranillo | cabernet sauvignon | saperavi
country: Moldova
region: Valul lui Traian
rating: 94.0

Fáutor Winery is recognized as one of the most awarded wineries in Moldova, highlighting its dedication to high-quality winemaking. The careful integration of international grape varieties alongside indigenous ones demonstrates Moldova’s potential as a significant producer of quality wines on the global wine scene.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!