DOMENIUL BOGDAN | Primordial | Elogium | Merlot | 2020
merlot

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Domeniul Bogdan is located in the Dobrogea region of Romania that has maritime influence. Known for its commitment to organic and biodynamic practices, the winery has gained a reputation for producing high-quality wines that reflect the unique characteristics of the warm, Murfatlar region. With the introduction of the Primordial wine range, Domeniul Bogdan has showcased dedication and craftsmanship, guided by the highly-experienced, late french oenologist – Philippe Cambie.
Today we are going to review a quite remarkable, single-varietal merlot wine that comes from the warm, Murfatlar appellation of Dobrogeawine region, situated in the south-east of Romania – Primordial Elogium Merlot 2020 by Domeniul Bogdan. This wine has a particular significance, as it is both the first and the last merlot wine crafted under the esteemed guidance of renowned french oenologist Philippe Cambie, therefore this wine stands as a poignant tribute to his legacy.

Made of carefully hand-picked merlot grapes that were sourced from the estate’s best south-facing sites, this wine has been produced in a limited edition of only 10500 bottles and has been aged for 9 months partially in medium toasted, french oak barriques at second-use, and partially in large wooden casks, with additional bottle ageing time before it was deemed ready for the market release.

Merlot is usually regarded as the underdog to the highly priced cabernet sauvignon or cabernet franc varieties, but make no mistake, merlot wine is first class, as it is more versatile and ripens earlier than both cabernet grapes, responds well to oak ageing and can be grown in both, cool climate and warm climate regions with the same success.

Murfatlar DOC, which is situated in the Dobrogea wine region, right at the banks of the Danube River where it reaches the Black Sea, benefits from a warm maritime climate that is ideal for grape growing, especially well suited for red grape varieties. This coastal region has a long winemaking tradition dating back over 2,000 years, benefiting from a unique combination of maritime and continental influences. The soil here are well-drained, rich in minerals, which sandy and loamy sub-soils. The Black Sea acts as a thermal regulator, helping to moderate extreme temperatures, which makes winters milder, reducing the risk of severe frost that could damage vines. The maritime influence also makes summers cooler compared to inland areas, preventing excessive heat stress on the grapes. That leads to high diurnal variation (warm days and cool nights), which helps preserve acidity and freshness in the wines. Those unique characteristics allows the grapes to ripen optimally without much vintage variation, developing rich flavors and vibrant color. All of that makes Murfatlar region ideal for producing expressive, terroir-driven wines that are able to showcase the delicate harmony between nature and viticulture.

color: deep & opaque ruby color
clarity: hazy & noble garnet shades

In the glass, the wine displays a deep and opaque ruby color, with hazy garnet shades at the rim of the glass, hinting at the wine’s richness and concentration.

intensity: pronounced & dusty
fruit character: overripe & dehydrated

The olfactory profile of the wine is pronounced and dusty, with an overripe fruit character. The forefront reveals nuanced dusty-earthy notes, along with overripe black fruits such as aronia, prune, and blackberry, which intermingle with hints of pencil lead and granite. In the background, rich oak-derived aromas of toasted wood and subtle spices emerge, that add to the wine’s overall aromatic complexity.

sweetness: dry | acidity: medium+ | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: good
finish: medium+ | aftertaste: crisp & heady

On the palate, the wine presents a firm and nuanced mouthfeel that showcases its full-bodied character. It feels dry, with crisp acidity that balances the overwhelming warmth from the alcohol. Ripe and seedy tannins contribute to the wine’s structure, while a dusty-astringent texture adds depth. The finish is heady, filled with dusty and spicy elements, thus resulting in a thoroughly rich and engaging tasting experience.

maturity: almost in its prime | drink or age for another 3 to 5 years
verdict: great | a must try wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

Overall, this wine exemplifies the classic characteristics of a warm climate merlot: bold, rich, and dusty, with an overripe fruit accent. Although the wine is ready to be enjoyed today, it still has the potential to age beautifully for another 3 to 5 years. What this wine lacks today is that old world elegance and finesse that the merlot grape variety is capable to deliver in a moderate climates, where a longer growing season allow the grapes to develop more aromatic complexity without over ripeness.

For an exquisite wine tasting experience, consider pairing this wine alongside rich and hearthy dishes such as a rosemary-garlic roasted lamb shank or a truffle risotto. The wine’s bold and muscular character will complement beautifully the dish’s savory notes, while its firm structure will create a delightful contrast to the rich textures on the plate, elevating the dining experience to new heights. Cheers!
DOMENIUL BOGDAN | Primordial | Elogium | Merlot | 2020
variety: merlot
country: Romania
region: Dobrogea | Murfatlar
rating: 94.0

The name ‘Elogium’ serves as a homage to the late Philippe Cambie, whose profound influence on the romanian wine scene was remarkable. Known as the oenologist who amassed an impressive 1,500 points from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate during his career, his legacy rests not only in this Merlot but in the sustainable practices he promoted and the high-quality wines that have emerged as a result of his efforts.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!