DOMAINE NICO | Grand Mère: Pinot Noir | 2022
pinot noir

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Domaine Nico is a pioneering winery founded by Laura Catena – a prominent figure in the argentine wine scene and the daughter of renowned winemaker Nicolás Catena. She has brought a unique vision to the winery by creating the world’s first high altitude Pinot Noir in Argentina’s Uco Valley, where the estate’s vineyards sit at between 1120 to 1500 meters above sea level. Laura has been fascinated by the Pinot Noir grape ever since she first travelled to France as a teenager.
Today we are going to review a quite exceptional, single-varietal pinot noir wine from the world’s famous Mendoza region of Argentina – Grand Mère: Pinot Noir 2022 by Domaine Nico. This is single vineyard and single parcel pinot noir wine, made of grapes that were sourced from the Tupungato vineyard, situated near Villa Bastías in the Valle de Uco sub-region of Mendoza. The vines are planted at 1100-1500 meters altitude on loamy soil with surface gravel and alluvial round rocks covered with limestone. Thanks to the altitude and the proximity of the Andes Mountains, the pinot noir grapes achieves optimum ripeness while retaining plenty of freshness and elegance. Once in the winery, Laura Catena carried out 15 microvinifications batches using only wild yeasts found naturally in the winery and on the grape skins. In order to preserve the varietal characteristics of the pinot noir grapes and those delicate, terroir-driven notes, the wine has been only aged for 14 months in small French oak barriques, with additional bottle ageing time before it was deemed ready for the market release. Each batch is vinified and aged separately then blended before bottling. To create this magnificent wine only the Dijon 667 and Dijon 115 pinot noir clones were used – read more about pinot noir clones’ selection here: The Clone Wars.

Pinot Noir is considered the world’s most noble red grape variety and has reached a legendary status mainly due to its ability to produce wines of unparalleled elegance. The grape itself is very difficult to cultivate – it has thin skins, as a result it is prone to rot and various vineyard disease, and is genetically unstable, meaning that it mutates easily (many of Burgundy’s other grapes, such as Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc, originated from these mutations). But when handled with great care, Pinot Noir is capable to deliver the very best expressions of terrior like no other grape variety, making it the ultimate storyteller of a place. Burgundy remains the spiritual home of Pinot Noir, where some of the most expensive and sought-after wines in the world are produced. Outside of France, Pinot Noir has adapted well in cooler climates such as Oregon’s Willamette Valley, New Zealand’s Central Otago, Argentina’s high-altitude Tupungato, and some parts of California, like Sonoma and Santa Barbara.

The unique geographical conditions of the Uco Valley contribute significantly to the distinctiveness of most of the malbec wines produced here. The arid climate coupled with the high-altitudes is ideal for viticulture, promoting the production of high-quality grapes. The vineyards  planted at high-altitudes benefit from abundant sunlight during the day and cool temperatures at night, thus creating a high diurnal range, which preserves natural acidity and develops aromatic complexity in the healthy grapes. The soil is predominantly alluvial, rich in sand and loam, with good drainage that supports deep root growth. Compared to the malbec wines from the lower regions, those from Uco Valley typically exhibit greater freshness, vibrancy, and complexity.

Situated at elevations ranging from 900 to 1700 meters above sea level, with vineyards reaching up to 1500 meters, Tupungato benefits from its unique high-altitude positioning. This elevation results in a pronounced diurnal temperature variation, with warm days and significantly cooler nights as compared to the rest of Mendoza, fostering balanced sugar and acidity levels in the grapes while promoting phenolic ripeness. The region experiences a dry continental climate, receiving less than 220 mm of annual rainfall, which requires controlled irrigation sourced from Andean meltwater. The soils composition in Tupungato are predominantly alluvial, formed by clay and rock base, with sandy and stony surface that often includes large boulders. A key component is the presence of limestone, which retains water effectively, facilitating beneficial interactions between grapevine roots and soil microflora. This contributes to the production of concentrated wines with notable minerality and that much-desired cool-climate elegance.

color: pale ruby color
clarity: hazy garnet shades at the rim

In the glass, the wine showcases a pale ruby color with hazy garnet shades, both of which are characteristic for the Pinot Noir grape variety.

intensity: pronounced & savory
fruit character: ripe

On the nose, this wine presents a pronounced and savory-delicate profile, with a ripe fruit character alongside nuanced earthy hints. In the foreground, expect red fruits such as sour cherry, cranberry, and goji berry, followed by savory notes of iron, tomato leaf, and brown olive. The background delivers elegant earthy aromas of marl and loam, with gentle oak-derived accents of cherry tree wood and fresh oakwood, enriched by subtle hints of dried herbs and old leather.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: medium+ | tannin: low | balance: good
finish: medium+ | aftertaste: seedy-crisp

On the palate, the wine feels bright, crisp, and rich, showcasing a ripe fruit character with a pronounced savory accent. The mouthfeel is well-structured and ample: the wine tastes dry, with mouth-watering acidity, well-integrated alcoholic warmth, and seedy tannins providing an ample texture with an appealing touch of phenolic bitterness.

maturity: developing | drink now or within the next 3 or 4 years
verdict: great | a must try wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

Overall, this is a rustic, voluptuous, and vibrant Pinot Noir wine with a round and ample mouthfeel, along with an amazing harmony between all its elements. While it is delightful to enjoy today, it still has potential for aging and can be appreciated over the next 3 or4 years. All in all, this is a textbook representation of a cool climate Pinot Noir, retaining the core varietal characteristics that are further enhanced by savory-earthy undertones and complemented by a touch of oak aging.

For an exquisite wine tasting experience, consider consider pairing this wine with mushroom risotto or an extra-rare veal steak, where the earthy flavors of the mushrooms and the hearthy notes of the meat will complement beautifully the wine’s pronounced savory profile, thus creating a harmonious balance of flavors and textures. Cheers!
DOMAINE NICO | Grand Mère: Pinot Noir | 2022
variety: pinot noir
country: Argentina
region: Mendoza | Valle de Uco | Tupungato
rating: 94.1

Created by Laura Catena, this graceful Pinot Noir wine is named after Laura’s ‘Grand Mère’ – a tribute to her grandmother Angelica who tragically passed away in a car accident at a young age. The previous versions of this wine were awarded 93 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate and 94 points by James Suckling, denoting its high quality.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!