FAMILIA DARABONT | Projekt M | 20.21
merlot

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Familia Darabont, established in 2014, is situated in the picturesque Biharia comune of the Bihor County, in the western Romania. The winery strives to merge traditional romanian viticulture with modern winemaking techniques, with the commitment to quality and the reflection of the unique local terroir that is reflected throughout their wine range.
Today we are are going to review a single-varietal, but multi-vintage merlot wine blend from the relatively unknown Crisana wine region, situated in the western of Romania – Projekt M 20.21 by Familia Darabont. Merlot is usually regarded as the underdog to the highly priced cabernet sauvignon or cabernet franc grape varieties, but make no mistake, merlot wine is first class, as it is more versatile and ripens earlier than both cabernet grapes, responds well to oak ageing and can be grown in both, cool climate and warm climate regions with the same success.

As mentioned above, this wine is a non-vintage, because it is a blend of two separate vintages: 70% of merlot comes from the 2021 vintage, which was fermented in stainless steel tanks with selected yeasts, followed by malolactic fermentation through co-inoculation with malolactic bacteria, while the remaining 30% of merlot comes from the 2020 vintage, which was aged for 12 months in 228L French and Romanian oak barrels, with additional bottle ageing time before the wine was released on the market.

​The Crișana wine region, located in northwestern Romania along the border with Hungary, boasts a rich viticultural heritage influenced by its geographical position. The soil composition in Crisana is diverse, encompassing volcanic rocks rich in iron, sandstone mixed with marl, and fertile brown soils, each contributing to the complexity of the wines produced here, enabling versatile grape varieties like merlot or chardonnay to develop a broad spectrum of flavors. The temperate-continental climate, with extended summers and mild winters offer almost ideal conditions for grape growing, ensuring grapes achieve full ripeness while maintaining freshness. Vineyards are typically situated at elevations between 125 and 234 meters above sea level, benefiting from the moderating effects of nearby rivers. The significant diurnal temperature variations between day and night preserves the natural acidity of the grapes, resulting in fresh and vibrant wines with good aging potential.

color: deep garnet color
clarity: hazy garnet shades

In the glass, the wine displays a deep garnet color with hazy garnet shades at the rim of the glass.

intensity: rich & oaky
fruit character: overripe & dehydrated

On the nose, the wine is rich and expressive with a bouquet filled with dried cranberry, prune, and dark cherry, enriched with hints of toasted oakwood, tobacco, and spices like cloves and nutmeg. The nuanced earthy undertones of dust, clay, and loam reflect the wine’s complexity and provide a subtle footprint of the Crisana terroir.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: good
finish: long | aftertaste: pleasantly-seedy

On the palate, the wine reveals a ripe, dusty, and rich mouthfeel with a bold, astringent, and well-structured profile. The wine feels dry, with bright acidity and a notable warmth from alcohol, complemented by seedy tannins. These elements culminate in a pleasantly-seedy finale, displaying the wine’s complexity and dehydrated character.

maturity: almost at its prime | drink now or in the next 2 years
verdict: fine | an excellent wine | a wine of premium quality with good potential

Overall, this is a complex, well-structured wine with a nuanced oaky accent and a dehydrated profile on the palate. While it lacks a touch of finesse, it holds nice varietal typicity of the Merlot grape, blending old-world dustiness with new-world expressivity, enhanced by a hint of rusticity. The wine is almost at its prime and can be enjoyed today or within the next 2 years.

This wine pairs lovely with grilled meats, such as a rosemary-seasoned steak, rich pasta dishes with mushroom sauce, and gourmet cheeses. The wine’s dehydrated fruit profile, dusty accent and seedy tannins will create a delightful contrast and complement the savory flavors of these dishes. Cheers!
FAMILIA DARABONT | Projekt M | 20.21
variety: merlot
country: Romania
region: Crisana | Biharia
rating: 93.9

Familia Darabont offers an introduction to the unique character of Biharia micro-region and is committed to sustainability, utilizing eco-friendly practices in their vineyards to ensure their winemaking honors the land. The people, the vineyard, the soil, and the climate – all these factors create the perfect context for crafting exceptional wines.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!