PAUL JABOULET AÎNÉ | Saint Joseph | Le Grand Pompée | 2022
syrah

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Maison Paul Jaboulet Aîné, established in 1834 in Tain-l’Hermitage, stands as one of the most venerable estates in the Rhône Valley. With a legacy built over generations, this wine house gained recognition for its exceptional Hermitage La Chapelle wines. Since 2006, the estate combines tradition with non-intrusive viticulture by incorporating sustainable and organic practices. Their focus remains steadfast: to craft wines that are true expressions of the Northern Rhône’s terroirs.
Today we are are going to review a quintessential wine – a single varietal syrah wine originating from one of France‘s classic appellations – the famous Saint-Joseph appellation from Northern Rhône – Saint Joseph Le Grand Pompée 2022 by Paul Jaboulet Aîné. This wine is crafted 100% from syrah grapes – the signature variety of the region, sourced from vines planted between 1989 and 2019, thus creating a blend of youthful fruit and mature vine complexity. In a world where bolder is better, syrah is the perfect choice, as it is darker and spicier than cabernet sauvignon and contains a high amounts of health-invigorating antioxidants. Syrah, also known as Shiraz, can be vinified in two major styles: old-world style and new-world style. The old-world syrah wines tend to have more acidity and displays earthy-herbaceous aromas on the nose, while the new-world shiraz wines are usually dusty and fruit-forward, with lots of spice and nuanced hints of smoke.

The ‘Le Grand Pompée‘ pays homage to Victor Hugo‘s epic poem ‘La Légende des Siècles‘, referencing the mention of a wine beloved by a valiant companion of Charlemagne, linking the wine to its region’s rich history and legends. In order to preserve the varietal characteristics of the syrah grape variety, the wine has been aged for 12 months in french truncated cone vats, with additional bottle ageing before it was deemed ready for the market release.

The Northern Rhône region in southeastern France is defined by its temperate continental climate, with wet winters and warm summers. This region is influenced by the Mistral winds that moderate the extreme temperatures and helps keep vineyards disease-free. Vines are planted on steep, terraced slopes along the Rhône River, where granite and schist soils provide excellent drainage and contribute to the intensity and minerality of the wines. This rugged terrain favors low yields and high-quality fruit, particularly well suited for syrah, which is the region’s signature red grape that produces deeply colored, aromatic wines with notes of dark fruit, spice, and violet.
The Saint-Joseph appellation stretches along the western bank of the Rhône River in the Northern Rhône Valley. Most of syrah grapes are sourced from vineyards planted on steep, south-east facing slopes that allow to capture sunlight and ensure full ripeness of the grapes. The terroir is defined by its light topsoil of schist and gneiss, resting upon a solid granite bedrock – a classic geological signature of the region. Granite imparts structure, minerality, and longevity to the wines, while the schist and gneiss contribute complexity and finesse. This well-drained, relatively poor soil encourages vines to root deeply, enhancing the wine’s concentration and terroir expression. Compared to the often more powerful and dense wines of Hermitage just across the river, or the sometimes lighter, more variable wines from the wider Crozes-Hermitage appellation, the wines of Saint-Joseph offer a delightful savory character, and textural finesse.
color: medium-deep ruby color
clarity: hazy ruby shades at the rim

In the glass, the wine presents a medium-deep ruby color, with hazy ruby shades towards the rim, hinting at both, its youthful vibrancy and the concentration of flavour.

intensity: rich & savory
fruit character: ripe

The olfactory profile is rich and distinctly savory, immediately signaling its Northern Rhône origins. The aromatic outline is led by a core of ripe red and dark fruits – plum, cranberry, redcurrant, and sour cherry that intertwine with notes of blackberry. This layer is beautifully framed by compelling savory elements, with nuances of old leather, a hint of iron and iodine, complemented by brown olive, all underscored by subtle rustic undertones. The background reveals a delicate earthiness, evoking notes of dust, loam, clay, and marl. This mineral and earthy foundation is complemented by gentle spice notes of red pepper and paprika, along with faint whispers of sun-dried oakwood, tobacco leaf, and a wild hint of barnyard.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: medium+ | tannin: high | balance: good
finish: medium+ | aftertaste: savory-crisp

On the palate, the wine confirms its old-world pedigree, delivering a dry, savory, and crisp mouthfeel. It showcases a fine and delicate structure, with a velvety start, before revealing a distinctly dusty and seedy texture across the mid-palate. The acidity is bright, providing an excellent backbone and ensuring freshness. A touch of alcoholic warmth contributes to the wine’s overall balance and firmness. The tannins are slightly seedy and fine-grained, lending textural grip and a delicate mouthfeel rather than astringency. A subtle phenolic bitterness emerges on the finish, adding character and enhancing the wine’s length. The body is medium, showcasing finesse and structure over sheer power, with a touch of rustic charm.

maturity: developing | drink now or in the next 3 to 5 years
verdict: great | a benchmark wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

Overall, this is a complex, well structured, and appealingly-rustic Syrah wine, crafted in a clear-cut old-world style. It is a good representation of the Saint-Joseph appellation and showcases excellent varietal typicity, marked by its characteristic savory profile and delicate earthy nuances. While enjoyable today, the wine displays promises of the future elegance. It is currently developing, therefore we recommend drinking it now to capture its youthful energy or cellaring it for another 3 to 5 years, allowing its components to integrate further and its tertiary nuances to fully blossom.

The wine’s savory complexity, crisp acidity, and seedy tannins make it a versatile partner for hearthy dishes. It would pair exceptionally well with pan-seared duck breast accompanied by a savory cherry or blackberry reduction; the wine’s acidity will cut through the duck’s richness, while its fruit notes would complement the sauce, allowing the wine’s terroir-driven character to shine without being overshadowed by the food. The key is to match the wine’s savory profile rather than overpowering it with excessively heavy or spicy cuisine. Enjoy!
PAUL JABOULET AÎNÉ | Saint Joseph | Le Grand Pompée | 2022
variety: syrah
country: France
region: Rhône Valley  | Saint-Joseph
rating: 94.6

The evocative name ‘Le Grand Pompée’ is drawn directly from a verse in Victor Hugo’s epic 19th-century poem ‘La Légende des Siècles’, celebrating a legendary companion of Emperor Charlemagne. Historically, the wines of Saint-Joseph were highly regarded long before the formal appellation existed; known as ‘Vin de Mauves’ in the 16th century, they were appreciated at the tables of french royalty. It was Jesuit monks in the 17th century who bestowed the area with its current name, Saint-Joseph.

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