GRAMOFON WINE | Sonorum | Feteasca Neagra | 2020
feteasca neagra

© We will be evaluating wines in no particular order on no particular schedule. Just stay tuned and you will never miss our reviews. If the wine is tasted more than once, the rating table will be updated so as to reflect all the new impressions and observations. We hope you will enjoy it!

Gramofon Wine was founded in 2009 by planting its first vineyards in the historically rich Dealu Mare region near Urlați – an area where landscape and passion harmonize. Their vision focuses on capturing the ‘melodic rhythm’ of the local terroir, while the ‘Sonorum’ label represents their flagship wines – a collection curated in collaboration with renowned romanian sommeliers.
Today we are going to review a single-varietal feteasca neagra wine from the famous Dealu Mare region of Romania – Sonorum Feteasca Neagra 2020 by Gramofon Wine. This is a limited edition wine, made from hand picked feteasca neagra grapes, being the first dry expression of this grape variety created at the winery, and signed by one of Romania’s most respected sommeliers, Sergiu Nedelea. With only 5000 bottles produced, each one of them tells a story of the meticulous care taken from the vineyard to the bottle. In order to preserve the varietal characteristics of the feteasca neagra grape variety, the wine has been aged only for 6 months in romanian oak barrels, with additional bottle ageing time before it was deemed ready for the market release.

Feteasca Neagra is an indigenous romanian grape variety that has been grown for hundreds of years on substantial plantings in the south of Moldova and eastern Muntenia and today, this is the most famous red variety in Romania. Wines made from feteasca neagra grapes are usually fruit-forward, complex and structured, wines that often are compared to merlot and cabernet franc, mostly due to their body, robust tannins and elegant textures. There is a rising demand for feteasca neagra wines on the regional as well as on the international markets and many wine experts consider this variety to be the visit card of romanian wines.

Located on the sun-drenched foothills of the south-eastern Carpathian Mountains, the Dealu Mare region’s varied altitudes and endless slopes foster excellent drainage and aeration necessary for vine health. The region benefits from a combination of geographical advantages that define its unique terroir, with a continental climate that is moderated by nearby mountains, offering warm days and cooler nights, ideal for developing phenolic ripeness and preserving natural acidity in the grape berries. The soils, mostly clay and loam with limestone deposits, provide good water retention and minerality. The region’s proximity to the Carpathian Mountains moderates temperature extremes, allowing for a longer growing season. These natural elements combine to create wines that allows for the full expression of each grape variety with vibrant and complex aromas, imparting structure, depth, and distinctive dusty undertones.
© Map credits: crameromania.ro

color: medium-deep garnet color
clarity: hazy garnet shades at the rim

In the glass, the wine presents a medium-deep garnet color, fading slightly towards a hazy garnet rim, hinting at both, concentration and its youthfulness.

intensity: pronounced & vibrant
fruit character: ripe & dehydrated

On the first nose, this wine unveils a pronounced and vibrant character, offering a complex bouquet that balances ripe-to-dehydrated fruit character with a distinct dusty accent. The foreground is dominated by an array of black fruits: dark cherry, aronia berry, black plum, blackcurrant, and ripe blackberry. These are mixed with intriguing earthy and mineral notes – nuances of dry dust, pencil lead, and crushed granite, complemented by subtle hints of dried black fruits. Some oak-derived notes of sweet tobacco, cloves, and toasted oakwood, further complement the aromatic profile alongside spicy hints of black peppercorn and nutmeg, all tied together by that persistent, terroir-driven dusty accent.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: med+ | balance: good
finish: long | aftertaste: crisp

On the palate, the wine feels dry, showcasing a crisp mouthfeel from the outset. It delivers a firm and well-defined structure, characterized by a notable dusty texture. A touch of savouriness adds further sophistication. The wine’s exuberant acidity provides freshness and nerve, while its ripe tannins lend grip and backbone. A significant touch of alcoholic warmth (15% ABV) makes its presence known, yet it is surprisingly well-integrated into the wine’s ample frame, contributing to the overall weight without overwhelming the balance. The finish is long, concluding with a distinctly crisp aftertaste.

maturity: developing | drink now or age for another 3 t 5 years
verdict: great | a benchmark wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

Overall, this is an outstanding feteasca neagra wine that radiates complexity with its impressive balance, and nicely retained varietal typicity. It also manages to capture the delicate essence of the Dealu Mare terroir with its that nuanced dusty-savory signature. The nose is rich and vibrant, while the palate, though currently marked by youthful nuance, displays remarkable balance and even some hints of future elegance. The wine is currently in a developing phase; although it can be enjoyed today, cellaring it for at least 3 to 5 years would be the reasonable thing to do.

Given its exuberant acidity, ripe tannins, and complex flavour profile featuring those nuanced earthy notes, this wine calls for rich and flavorful dishes. A nice complementary pairing would be slow-cooked lamb shank served with root vegetable puree and a rosemary jus. The richness of the lamb will be beautifully counterbalanced by the wine’s acidity, while the ripe tannins will meld seamlessly with the protein of the dish, creating a harmonious wine tasting experience. Cheers!
GRAMOFON WINE | Sonorum | Feteasca Neagra | 2020
variety: feteasca neagra
country: Romania
region: Muntenia | Dealu Mare
rating: 94.3

This wine is part of the ‘Sonorum’ collection, where each wine is signed by a different romanian sommelier – this one bears the signature of Sergiu Nedelea. Adding to its uniqueness, the label design wasn’t chosen internally but resulted from a public vote on an original artwork by Dumitru Mihai Glodeanu.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!