FAMILIA DARABONT | Projekt CH | 2022
chardonnay

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Familia Darabont, established in 2014, is situated in the picturesque Biharia comune of the Bihor County, in the western Romania. The winery strives to merge traditional romanian viticulture with modern winemaking techniques, with the commitment to quality and the reflection of the unique local terroir that is reflected throughout their wine range.

Today we are going to review a single varietal chardonnay wine that comes from the relatively unknown Crisana wine region, situated in the western of Romania – Projekt CH 2022 by Familia Darabont. This wine is crafted 100% from chardonnay grapes that were fermented with non-saccharomyces yeasts, known for contributing aromatic complexity to the resulting wines, followed by a maturation period of 10 months in 500-liter hungarian oak barrels from the esteemed Kadar cooperage. Those winemaking techniques are aimed to enhance the wine’s structure and aromatic depth.

Chardonnay is one of the world’s most popular grape varieties, regarded by many as the ‘Queen of Whites‘ and it is prized for its flexibility and for the ability to produce top-notch wines in a wide range of climates and terroirs. Stylistically, there are two main types of chardonnay wines: on one hand we have the classic, creamy and rich, oak-aged style, that is backed up by winemakers in Napa Valley and most of the Grand Cru in Bourgogne, whereas on the other hand there’s the crisp, zingy and citrusy, unoaked style, that is mainly promoted by the new-world producers and most of the winemakers in the Chablis region.

Today’s wine is from the first category, as it has been fermented and aged in new oak barrels, which means that the wine went through the malolactic conversion – a process where the crisp, malic acid in the wine is converted into a more softer, lactic acid, thus the wine becomes less tart and more silky, gaining more structure and finesse, thus rounding up its palate.

The Crișana wine region, located in northwestern Romania along the border with Hungary, boasts a rich viticultural heritage influenced by its geographical position. The soil composition in Crisana is diverse, encompassing volcanic rocks rich in iron, sandstone mixed with marl, and fertile brown soils, each contributing to the complexity of the wines produced here, enabling versatile grape varieties like merlot or chardonnay to develop a broad spectrum of flavors. The temperate-continental climate, with extended summers and mild winters offer almost ideal conditions for grape growing, ensuring grapes achieve full ripeness while maintaining freshness. Vineyards are typically situated at elevations between 125 and 234 meters above sea level, benefiting from the moderating effects of nearby rivers. The significant diurnal temperature variations between day and night preserves the natural acidity of the grapes, resulting in fresh and vibrant wines with good aging potential.

color: very deep yellow color
clarity: bright yellow hues & golden shades

The wine presents a very deep yellow color, with bright yellow hues at the rim of the glass, complemented by transparent golden shades that dance in the light.

intensity: pronounced & extremely-oaky
fruit character: ripe

The nose is defined by a pronounced and extremely-oaky character, which harmonizes with an underlying ripe fruit essence. The foreground is a rich tapestry of oak-derived aromas: notes of fresh oak staves, sun-dried oakwood, and creamy vanilla bean, that are intricately woven with nuanced hints of orchid fruits, such as sweet yellow pear, crisp yellow apple, and fragrant quince, brightened by a subtle, zesty touch of lemon. As the wine aerates in the glass, the background reveals a more delicate complexity: gentle herbal notes reminiscent of dry hay, golden wheat, and a sun-drenched meadow emerge, accompanied by subtle floral whispers of sweet acacia and delicate marguerite daisy.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: medium | balance: good
finish: long | aftertaste: crisp & oaky

On the palate, the wine presents a round, ample, and voluptuous texture. Despite its richness, a crisp mouthfeel, formed by bright acidity, provides freshness and vibrancy. A ripe fruity accent and a nuanced oaky presence, echoing the aromas from the nose, carries through with notes of yellow orchard fruits and vanilla. This wine is undeniably rich and well-structured, with a full and luscious body. The alcohol is quite prominent, lending a significant warmth that underscores its powerful character, while a subtle touch of phenolic bitterness emerges on the mid-palate, adding an extra textural dimension and contributing to a long, persistent, and decidedly crisp and oaky aftertaste.

maturity: in its prime | drink now or age for 2 to 3 year
verdict: great | benchmark wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

Overall, this is a quite complex and voluptuous chardonnay wine, showcasing a rich and oaky profile that will appeal to the fans of bold and oaked white wines. It feels well-structured, with a surprisingly balanced and expressive mouthfeel, where the bright acidity manages to counterpoise the alcoholic warmth and richly-creamed texture. This wine stands as a textbook example of a new-world styled chardonnay, characterized by its pronounced oak influence and commendable varietal typicity, offering a forthright and powerful expression of this grape variety. The wine also displays subtle hints of future finesse and potential for further bottle ageing. Currently in its prime form, ready to be enjoyed today or within the next 2 to 3 years, during which the oak may integrate further, revealing more nuanced layers of flavours.

Given the wine’s rich, oaky, and full-bodied nature, it demands dishes that can match the wine’s intensity and complement its complex profile. Consider pairing it with roasted chicken accompanied by a creamy wild mushroom sauce – the wine’s acidity will cut beautifully through the richness of the sauce, while the wine’s oaky tones will harmonize with the savory chicken and earthy mushrooms. Another excellent pairing suggestion would be a decadent lobster thermidor or pan-seared scallops drizzled with a lemon-butter sauce, where the wine’s creamy texture and its underlying citrus notes will meld seamlessly with the richness of the seafood and the buttery sauce, creating a truly mesmerizing tasting experience. Enjoy!

FAMILIA DARABONT | Projekt CH | 2022
variety: chardonnay
country: Romania
region: Crisana | Biharia
rating: 94.0

Familia Darabont offers an introduction to the unique character of Biharia micro-region and is committed to sustainability, utilizing eco-friendly practices in their vineyards to ensure their winemaking honors the land. The people, the vineyard, the soil, and the climate – all these factors create the perfect context for crafting exceptional wines.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!