DOMAINES LUPIER | El Terroir | 2019
grenache

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Domaines Lupier began its journey with the aim for preserving a precious heritage: old-vine Garnacha. Founded by Enrique Basarte and Elisa Ucar, the domaine dedicated itself to identifying and restoring ancient Garnacha vineyards, some planted as early as 1903, that had been neglected in the Navarra wine region. Their vision was to craft wines that would authentically express the unique ‘atlantic’ character of Navarra’s high-altitude Garnacha grapes. Today the winery is owned by the esteemed spanish winemaker Raúl Pérez, renowned for his sensitive approach to expressing terroir in its finest detail. Pérez’s involvement further solidified the estate’s commitment to quality and its place among Spain’s most intriguing producers.
Today we are going to review a single-varietal grenache wine from one of Spain‘s less famous wine regions – the breathtaking Navarra (the neighbor of the mighty Rioja) – El Terroir 2019 by Domaines Lupier. Until recently, grenache has been ignored in much of the world, even though it is the grape variety that is responsible for two of the world’s more famous red wines: Châteauneuf-du-Pape and a more recent star Priorat. The main two reasons of the world’s ignorance towards this grape variety was that grenache tends to be over-productive when poorly managed and hence, it was widely planted in hot regions where cheap bulk wine was the main target (mostly in northern Spain, where it is known as garnacha), in fact it was the second most planted grape variety in the world after the infamous airén. But, if carefully managed, garnacha can produce very intense, vibrant and expressive red wines, especially when made of grapes that are sourced from old bush grenache vines. With its upright growth and strong, sturdy trunk, grenache is well suited to being grown as a water-seeking bush vine in hot and windy regions, its only disadvantage is its predilection to set relatively little fruit, which, of course, means all the more flavour in the grapes that remain.

Today’s wine is a textbook, old bush (up to 75 years old) grenache wine from a warm climate. Crafted entirely from garnacha grapes sourced from the San Martín de Unx area in Navarra, known for its elevated vineyards and distinct terroir. The grapes come from very old, dry-farmed bush vines, reflecting a commitment to traditional winegrowing and organic farming practices. The winemaking involves spontaneous fermentation in a mix of stainless steel tanks and open-top barrels, with some stem inclusion during fermentation, followed by an ageing period of 14 months in large, neutral French oak barrels (500L and 600L) in order to preserve the the fruit character and the delicate terroir notes in the wine, with additional bottle ageing before it was deemed ready for the market release.

Navarra D.O., located in northern Spain, at the border with France, just east of Rioja, enjoys a diverse range of microclimates due to its varied topography. Stretching from the foothills of the Pyrenees in the north to the dry plains in the south, this region experiences a continental climate with both Atlantic and Mediterranean influences, offering warm, dry summers and cool nights, that help retain acidity and preserve freshness in the grapes. Soils vary from limestone and clay in the higher zones, to sandy loam and gravel in the river valleys, promoting good drainage and encouraging deep vine roots. This diversity makes Navarra ideal for both red and white grape varieties. While traditionally known for rosado (rosé) wines made from garnacha, Navarra D.O. has gained recognition for its structured reds made from tempranillo, cabernet sauvignon, and merlot, as well as elegant whites made from chardonnay and viura. The region’s balance of climate, soil, and tradition yields wines that are expressive, fresh, and increasingly dynamic in style, allowing winemakers to express the specificity of local terroir through their wines.

color: medium-deep garnet color
clarity: hazy & pale garnet shades at the rim

In the glass, the wine displays a medium-deep garnet color, with pale and hazy garnet shades at the rim, suggesting some evolution while maintaining a vibrant core.

intensity: rich & fruity-explosive
fruit character: overripe & dehydrated

The nose is rich and fruity-explosive, with an overripe to dehydrated fruit character. In the foreground, a complex tapestry of red fruits unfolds, with notes of red cherry, red plum, and kirsch sour cherry, intertwined with brighter hints of redcurrant and cranberry. These are beautifully complemented by a distinctive mediterranean herbal bouquet, showcasing nuances of wild mint, eucalypt, and thyme, adding a layer of sophistication to the wine’s aromatic profile. As the aroma develops, a persistent cherry liqueur accent weaves through the fruit, enhancing the perceived ripeness, while the background reveals subtle spicy elements alongside some dried oakwood hints and nuances of dehydrated fruits. All this forms an aromatic profile that is both intense and vibrant, reflecting the region’s unique micro terroir.

sweetness: dry | acidity: medium | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: fair
finish: medium+ | aftertaste: heady-hot

On the palate the wine feels overwhelmingly-heady, initially starting with a crisp and hot sensation, driven by a noticeable burning alcohol that reminds you of a kirsch cherry liqueur. Despite this initial heady impression, the wine reveals itself to be nicely structured and complex, showcasing a robust framework beneath all that heat. The mouthfeel is marked by an underwhelming acidity that struggles to counter the overwhelming alcoholic warmth. The tannins are notably grippy and astringent, contributing significantly to the wine’s structure but also adding a textural firmness. The aftertaste is consequently heady and hot, leaving a lasting, somewhat burning sensation. While the wine possesses undeniable power and expressivity, the balance between its core elements – acidity, alcohol, and tannin – feels uneven, contributing to a lack of finesse and harmony in its current state.

maturity: in its prime | drink now or within a year
verdict: fine | an excellent wine | a wine of premium quality with good potential

Overall, this is a blueprint example of a warm region garnacha wine with amazing varietal typicity. It is an expressive and fruity-explosive wine, that showcases overripe and dehydrated red fruit notes characteristic of a warm vintage from old vines grenache. However, the wine feels unbalanced on the palate, primarily due to the underwhelming acidity and overwhelming alcoholic warmth, which detracts from the overall harmony – a characteristic that many garnacha wines can lack when aiming for power and concentration rather than finesse and delicacy. The wine is in its prime form, therefore best enjoyed today rather than tomorrow. All in all, this wine stands as an epitome of a modern garnacha wine, very much similar to its famous french counter part – the mighty Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Based on the wine’s fruity character and its inherent warmth, a pairing with spicy red meats featuring sweet or jam-based sauces would create a sensational synergy. Consider a pan-seared venison loin with a cherry and black pepper reduction, or perhaps a grilled lamb chop glazed with a fig and balsamic sauce. The intense red fruit and subtle cherry liqueur notes in the wine will resonate beautifully with the sweetness and fruitiness of the sauces, while the wine’s substantial body, grippy tannins, and alcoholic warmth will stand up to the richness and texture of the red meat. The herbal and spicy undertones in the wine will also find harmony with any seasonings on the meat, creating a complex and utterly satisfying culinary experience that celebrates the wine’s robust personality and the meat’s delicateness. Cheers!
DOMAINES LUPIER | El Terroir | 2019
variety: grenache
country: Spain
region: Navarra
rating: 93.2

One fascinating aspect about Domaines Lupier is their dedication to rescuing old vineyards, essentially acting as custodians of Navarra’s ancient Garnacha heritage. Some of the vines contributing to ‘El Terroir’ were planted in 1903, pre-dating both World Wars. The recent acquisition by Raúl Pérez, often dubbed one of Spain’s winemaking geniuses, adds another layer of intrigue, promising continued evolution and recognition for these remarkable old vines and the Navarra’s unique micro terroirs.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!