CATENA ZAPATA | Malbec | Argentino | 2021
malbec

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The story of Catena Zapata is the story of modern argentinian wine. Founded in 1902 by Italian immigrant Nicola Catena, the winery was revolutionized generations later by his grandson, Nicolás Catena Zapata. Often hailed as the pioneer of high-altitude viticulture in Argentina, Nicolás dedicated himself to proving that Mendoza could produce wines that can rival the world’s finest reds. He focused on identifying the ideal microclimates for the Malbec grape variety, planting vineyards at soaring elevations where others thought grapes couldn’t ripen. This relentless pursuit of quality culminated in a global renaissance for argentinian wine. Today, under the guidance of the fourth generation, Dr. Laura Catena, the winery continues its legacy of research and innovation. In 2023, Catena Zapata’s Angélica Vineyard was named the ‘World’s Best Vineyard’ – a testament to their unwavering dedication to expressing the soul of their unique terroir.

Today we are going to review a wine that requires no introduction, as this is a true classic – a genuine, high-altitude malbec wine from Mendoza, which is Argentina‘s flagship wine region – Malbec Argentino 2021 by Catena Zapata. Known for its plump, dark fruit flavors and smoky finish, malbec wines have been adored for centuries, especially by the royal houses of England and Russia. With elegant notes of blueberry, plum, tobacco and hints of violets, modern malbec offers a great alternative to its higher priced siblings (merlot, cabernet sauvignon or syrah). Although the malbec grape variety originated in the famous Cahors region of France, Argentina proved that there’s more to malbec than just value, as it can offer an unmatched complexity and elegance, if produced in an expressive new-world style, with a nuanced and juicy, fruit-forward character.

This wine is a pure expression of the malbec grape variety, which has a dramatic history, as it was nearly wiped out by phylloxera in the 19th century, but luckily found a new home in the high-altitude deserts of Argentina. Sourced from two of the family’s most cherished historic vineyards: Angélica and Nicasia, the grapes were fermented with wild yeasts using 20% whole clusters and 80% whole berries. But the true brilliance of this wine lies in its multi-terroir composition, blending grapes from two distinct high-altitude sites in Mendoza. The Angélica Vineyard, located in Lunlunta microregion of Maipú, was planted at 920m altitude around 1930 on soils rich in gravel, loam, and clay. In contrast, the Nicasia Vineyard was planted much higher, at 1,095m altitude in La Consulta microregion of Uco Valley, on shallow loamy soil with abundant surface gravel.

The combination of these two micro-regions is what creates the wine’s exceptional complexity, balancing the voluptuous depth of the Angélica vineyard with the vibrant elegance of the Nicasia vineyard, thus creating a perfect footprint of Mendoza’s high-altitude terroir. In order to preserve the varietal characteristics of the malbec grapes and those delicate, terroir-driven notes, the wine has been aged for a period between 15 and 18 months in a combination of old and new french oak barriques (225L & 500L), with additional bottle ageing before it was deemed ready for the market release.

Situated just southeast of the city of Mendoza, at around 600–800 m elevation, Maipú is one of the oldest and most historic wine regions in Argentina. It’s marked by a continental, semi-arid climate, with intense sunlight, warm days, and cold mountain-cooled nights that create a wide diurnal temperature range, which is ideal for slow, balanced grape ripening and vibrant acidity. Soils here are deep, stony, sandy‑loam alluvial deposits rich in gravel and low in organic matter, just perfect for restricting vigor and yielding deeply flavored, well-structured wines with concentrated color and tannins. This sub-region of Mendoza is famous for its malbec wines, but is also well suited for cabernet sauvignon, merlot and chardonnay, producing bold, fruit-forward and complex wines with solid structure and amazing freshness.
The unique geographical conditions of the Uco Valley contribute significantly to the distinctiveness of most of the malbec wines produced here. The arid climate coupled with the high-altitudes is ideal for viticulture, promoting the production of high-quality grapes. The vineyards  planted at high-altitudes benefit from abundant sunlight during the day and cool temperatures at night, thus creating a high diurnal range, which preserves natural acidity and develops aromatic complexity in the healthy grapes. The soil is predominantly alluvial, rich in sand and loam, with good drainage that supports deep root growth. Compared to the malbec wines from the lower regions, those from Uco Valley typically exhibit greater freshness, vibrancy, and complexity with a better ageing potential.

color: deep & opaque purple color
clarity: noble indigo shades at the rim

In the glass, the wine showcases a deep and opaque purple color, nearly impenetrable at its core. This profound depth is edged by noble and vibrant indigo shades at the rim – a clear testament to its youthful energy and immense concentration.

intensity: pronounced & savory-expressive
fruit character: ripe

The wine’s aromatic profile is pronounced and savory-expressive. The foreground is dominated by a powerful wave of ripe blue and black fruits – think dark cherry, blueberry, sour cherry, blackberry, and blue plum. This vibrant fruit core is complemented by an alluring dusty-savory accent, revealing notes of pencil lead, wet granite, and black soil that speak directly of the wine’s terroir. As it breathes, the background reveals layers of spice (black peppercorn and nutmeg), alongside beautifully integrated oak notes (sweet tobacco and cloves) – all underscored by pronounced savory hints of iron, brown olive, and a touch of old leather that adds an extra layer of sophistication.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: fine
finish: lasting | aftertaste: crisp & savory

On the palate, the wine feels lean and ample, with a vibrant texture that provides structural elegance. This is a full-bodied wine that carries its weight with a voluptuous mouthfeel. The attack is dry, followed by a vibrant acidity that provides incredible freshness to the backbone, and a well integrated alcoholic warmth, adding to the wine’s ample structure without a hint of heat. The tannins are fine-grained and velvety, coating the mouth with a silky texture and grip. The flavor profile mirrors the complex nose, leading to a remarkably long and persistent finish that concludes with a savory-crisp aftertaste.

maturity: developing | drink now or in the next 3 to 5 years
verdict: excellent | a reference wine | a wine that can reach into the realm of perfection

Overall, this is an iconic wine – the epitome of modern, high-altitude malbec, that blends power with finesse. It is a complex, vibrant, and voluptuous expression that delivers that textbook argentinian elegance, showcasing an expressive fruit profile that is beautifully contrasted by a nuanced, dusty accent that feels both savory and rustic. The wine is still in its developing phase, and while it can be enjoyed today, it possesses all the traits to evolve and gain further complexity over the next 3 to 5 years, if not longer. With its exceptional balance, restrained use of oak, and beautiful interplay between power and nuance, this is a benchmark wine that manages to encompass the footprint of the Mendoza terroir – arguably one of the best malbec wines we have reviewed so far.

Given its structure, vibrant acidity, and profound savory undertones, this wine calls for a dish of equal stature. A good complementary pairing would be a slow-braised lamb shank served with a wild mushroom and rosemary reduction over creamy polenta. The richness of the lamb will be beautifully counter-balanced by the wine’s vibrant acidity, while the wine’s fine-grained tannins will meld seamlessly with the protein in the dish. In the same key, the earthy notes of the mushrooms and the savory character of the wine will create a profound and harmonious resonance, elevating the entire dining experience. Enjoy!
CATENA ZAPATA | Malbec | Argentino | 2021
variety: malbec
country: Argentina
region: Mendoza | Valle de Maipú | Valle de Uco
rating: 97.0

The wine’s iconic label tells the epic saga of the Malbec grape variety through the four female figures: Eleanor of Aquitaine (representing the malbec’s origin in the Old World), the Immigrant (representing the malbec’s journey to the New World), Phylloxera (representing the malbec’s death in France), and Adrianna Catena (representing the malbec’s rebirth in Argentina). The grapes for this wine were sourced from the ‘Catena Cuttings, – a pre-phylloxeric Massale Selection from the historic Angélica Vineyard. Furthering the family connection, the two source vineyards are named after the family’s matriarchs: Angélica (Nicolás’ mother) and Nicasia (Nicolás’ grandmother) – an undisputed commitment to heritage and tradition.

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