BODEGAS FRONTONIO | Supersónico | Frontonio | Garnacha | 2022
grenache | macabeo

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Bodegas Frontonio is the dream of Master of Wine Fernando Mora and winemaker Mario López – a project born from a passion for reviving ancient, high-altitude Garnacha vineyards in the lesser-known region of Valdejalón, Aragon, in northern Spain. Their journey began in a literal garage, embodying a spirit of nonconformist, artisanal winemaking. The heart of their operation is a 200-year-old house with a three-level underground cave, allowing for gentle, gravity-fed processing and almost ideal conditions for aging wine. Their philosophy is one of minimal intervention, where the land and the grapes are left to tell the story.
Today we are going to review a quite remarkable wine from Valdejalón – a rising star within Spain‘s less famous Aragón wine region – Supersónico Frontonio Garnacha 2022 by Bodegas Frontonio. Until recently, grenache has been ignored in much of the world, even though it’s the grape variety that is responsible for two of the world’s more famous red wines: Châteauneuf-du-Pape and a more recent star Priorat. The main two reasons of the world’s ignorance towards grenache was that it tends to be over-productive when poorly managed and, as thus, it was widely planted in hot regions where cheap bulk wine was the main target (mostly in northern Spain, where it is known as garnacha). In fact grenache was the second most planted grape variety in the world after the infamous airén. But, if carefully managed, garnacha can produce very intense, vibrant and expressive red wines, especially when made of grapes that are sourced from old bush vines. With its upright growth and strong, sturdy trunk, grenache is well suited to being grown as a water-seeking bush vine in hot and windy regions, its only disadvantage is its predilection to set relatively little fruit, which means all the more flavour in the grapes that remain.

Today’s wine is not your typical bold and jammy garnacha, this one is a high-altitude expression of terroir that showcases the grape’s more elegant and energetic side. This wine is almost entirely made of grenache, sourced from a single, 80-year-old, organically-farmed vineyard, with a tiny amount of the white grape macabeo co-fermented in the traditional style to enhance aromatic complexity and vibrant acidity.  The winemaking is intentionally archaic: grapes are hand-harvested and stomped by foot, fermented with indigenous yeasts only, and aged for 12 months in large foudres and small oak barriques – old oak only. This meticulous, minimal intervention approach ensures that the final wine is a pure and honest representation of the grape variety itself, and the unique mountain terroir of Valdejalón sub-region.

The grapes for this wine are sourced from the Las Frías vineyard – a 2-hectare plot perched at an extreme altitude of 1030 meters (one of the Spain’s highest terroirs). This extreme elevation creates a high diurnal temperature shift, where intense daytime sun is balanced by very cool nights, allowing the grapes to ripen fully while preserving exceptional natural acidity. The soils here are a mix of limestone and sand, which provides excellent drainage and imparts a distinct mineral-driven character to the wines. This terroir is what sets this wine apart. While garnacha wines from warmer regions like Priorat or Southern Rhône are more powerful and dense, the high-altitude terroir of Valdejalón produces wines that are more akin to a firm Burgundy red: lighter in body, paler in color, with a taut structure and a focus on red fruit and floral notes – a testament to how the same grape variety can express itself so differently in various terroirs.

Nestled just south of the Pyrenees Mountains, Aragón wine region features a continental climate with hot, dry summers, cold winters, and a notable diurnal temperature range, aided by the cooling ‘cierzo‘ wind that blows through the Ebro River valley. Vineyards are planted across a varied elevation spectrum (350–1100 m), in nutrient-poor, well-drained soils, predominantly chalk, clay, slate, limestone, and alluvial deposits, forcing vines to dig deep and concentrate flavors. The region’s main grapes are Garnacha and Tempranillo, while Carignan, Syrah, and Merlot also thrive here, raising in popularity with each passing season. White varieties like Macabeo and Chardonnay settled well too in this warm region. Wines are typically bold, fruit-driven, with vibrant freshness and structural elegance, reflecting strong regional identity and unique terroir expression. White wines have a pronounced mineral backbone.
Just east of Ebro DO, Valdejalón sub-region enjoys a continental climate with mediterranean influences, marked by warm summers and cool winters. Soils here are varied: limestone, clay, sandy loam, and gravelly terraces, providing excellent drainage and moderating vine vigor. This micro-region supports a wide variety of white grapes (Macabeo, Garnacha Blanca, Chardonnay, Moscatel) but also red varieties (Tempranillo, Garnacha Tinta, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah). This unique terroir favors varietal-driven wines that are vibrant, aromatic, and expressive, making it one of Aragón‘s emerging areas.

color: pale garnet color
clarity: hazy garnet shades at the rim

In the glass, the wine presents a beautiful, translucent pale garnet color, with hazy garnet shades towards the rim. This delicate hue is a clear indicator of a gentle extraction process and is characteristic of high-altitude, old-world garnacha wines, hinting at elegance rather than power.

intensity: pronounced & delicate
fruit character: ripe & dehydrated

The aromatic profile is incredibly delicate and multi-layered. The first nose reveals a vibrant core of ripe and dehydrated red fruits: cranberry, wild red cherry, red plum, redcurrant, and rose hips. This fruit core is seamlessly woven with a profound earthy character of fine sand, dust, and dry brown soil, further supported by a subtle savory touch. In the background, a complex tapestry of secondary and tertiary notes unfolds with hints of red pepper, dried oakwood, fresh cherry tree sap, dried herbs, and a whisper of pomegranate skin, creating a sophisticated and constantly evolving olfactory experience.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: good
finish: medium+ | aftertaste: crisp & seedy

The palate delivers a blueprint interpretation of an old world grenache wine. The mouthfeel feels lean and supple, defined by a crisp and seedy texture, and a well-structured, slightly astringent backbone. The wine tastes bone-dry, driven by exuberant acidity that electrifies the tasting experience, accompanied by a subtle touch of alcoholic warmth which adds depth and structure. The tannins are ripe but firm and pleasantly-grippy, contributing to the wine’s slightly astringent yet compelling character. This leads to a long, persistent finish that feels both, crisp and seedy, leaving a lasting impression of vibrant red fruits.

maturity: developing | drink now or in the next 2 to 3 years
verdict: great | a benchmark wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

All in all, this is a textbook, old-vine garnacha-based wine blend from a high-altitude terroir. It boasts an incredibly complex, multi-layered profile that is both rich and vibrant. The use of oak is nicely restrained, allowing the varietal typicity and the local terroir to shine through. While it may currently be a touch off-balance due to its overwhelming acidity and perhaps lacks the ultimate polish and finesse, it compensates with immense character, structure, and a palpable sense of place. This is a wine that is still developing – ready to be enjoyed today, but it would be wise to cellar it for another 2 to 3 years, in order to allow its components to integrate and reveal a more harmonious and elegant expression.

Given its high acidity and savory undertones, this wine calls for a dish that can stand up to its rustic character. We recommend pairing it with pan-seared duck breast served with a wild berry and rosemary reduction sauce. The richness of the duck will be beautifully balanced by the wine’s zesty acidity, while the berry sauce will create a congruent link to the wine’s red fruit profile. In the same key, the earthy and herbal notes in the wine will harmonize perfectly with the rosemary in the dish, creating a sophisticated and memorable pairing experience that would elevate both, the food and the wine. Cheers!
BODEGAS FRONTONIO | Supersónico | Frontonio | Garnacha | 2022
variety: grenache | macabeo
country: Spain
region: Aragón | Valdejalón
rating: 94.4

Bodegas Frontonio’s name is an act of rebellion, inspired by the legend of San Frontonio – a local saint and the patron saint of Épila. The legend says that he was martyred by the Romans, beheaded, and his head was cast into the Ebro River. In an act of defiance, his head was later found floating upstream, against the river’s current – a perfect metaphor for the winery’s mission to defy convention and restore a forgotten heritage.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!