VARVAGLIONE | Susumaniello Rosé | 2023
susumaniello

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The story of Varvaglione Vigne & Vini is deeply rooted in the heart of Puglia, tracing its origins back to 1921. For over a century, this family estate has been a beacon of winemaking tradition and innovation, now passionately led by the fourth generation, Maria Teresa and Cosimo Varvaglione. Their vision is to craft wines of exceptional quality that express the authentic soul of the unique local terroir. With a profound commitment to preserving and reviving indigenous grape varieties like Susumaniello, Varvaglione has earned recognition as pioneers in Salento’s wine renaissance. Their philosophy centers on expressing the unique character of each grape variety, combining sustainable viticulture with modern innovation.
Today we are going to review a quite captivating rosé wine from Puglia wine region, located in the south of Italy – right there, in the heel of the boot – one of Italy‘s most prolific wine areas – Susumaniello Rosé 2023 by Varvaglione Vigne & Vini. This wine is a single varietal susumaniello wine from Salento – a native apulian grape variety and one of sangiovese’s many offspring, that was once on the brink of extinction, which has been triumphantly rescued by dedicate producers, such as like Varvaglione.

The winemaking process is meticulously controlled to preserve the grape’s fresh character: grapes are carefully selected and harvested in the cool early morning hours to maintain their fresh acidity. A gentle, direct press method ensures minimal skin contact, yielding the wine’s delicate coral-onion hue, followed by a short cryo-maceration and soft pressing. Fermentation takes place in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks at a cool 14-16°C, preserving the grape’s distinctive aromatic profile. The wine then undergoes repeating batonnage for three weeks – a technique that adds texture and complexity from periodic lees suspension, all while maintaining its vibrant acidity due to the absence of malolactic fermentation. This carefully applied winemaking approach results in a rosé wine that perfectly balances tradition with modern winemaking excellence.

Rosé itself is a bizarre wine category, as it isn’t exactly a red wine, nor is it a white wine – it is something in between. The secret to the pinkish hue of the rosé wine is found in the skins of the red grapes and more exactly in the anthocyanin pigments. When making a red wine, the skins spend the entire fermentation in contact with the juice, for rosé however the process is shortened, for example pinot noir usually spends around 4 to 6 hours on the skins, to produce its trademark pale salmon hue, while cabernet sauvignon needs only a few minutes to make that rich, deep-pink color.

Situated in the southeastern heel of Italy, Puglia enjoys a mediterranean climate, with long, sun-drenched summers and mild winters, moderated by breezes from both the Adriatic and Ionian seas. These maritime influences help temper intense summer heat and maintain the natural acidity in the grapes, while the prevailing winds reduce disease pressure, making it ideal for low-intervention viticulture. The soils here vary from  limestone and clay in the north and central zones, to sandy loams along the coast, and the iconic terra rossa (iron-rich red earth) in parts of Salento and Manduria, which lend a distinctive mineral grip. Varieties such as Primitivo, Negroamaro, and Nero di Troia are at home in this part of the world, producing fruit-forward reds and elegant whites – all full of vibrant character and regional authenticity.
Salento is the southernmost sub-region of Puglia, defined by intensely hot, dry summers, limestone-rich soils, and pervasive terra rossa laden with iron oxide. These conditions push vines toward concentrated ripeness and rich flavors. The region’s signature grape is Negroamaro, known for its deep color and rustic character, and a slightly bitter (yet compelling) earthiness. It’s often blended with Malvasia Nera, achieving both depth and aromatic intensity. Salento also produces structured Primitivo reds, elegant whites, and fragrant rosés, all embodying the region’s warm terroir and expressive varietal identity.

color: pale coral-onion color
clarity: clear salmon hues

In the glass, this wine presents a captivating pale onion color, beautifully complemented by delicate pastel salmon hues at the rim. Its appearance is showcasing a bright and inviting palette that makes one think of a sun-baked summer vacation..

intensity: rich & vibrant
fruit character: ripe

The aromatic profile is immediately rich and vibrant, showcasing a pronounced ripe fruit character. The foreground explodes with an array of crisp berry fruits, including notes of red delicious apple, juicy red cherry, tart cranberry, bright redcurrant, exotic goji berry, and luscious raspberry – all underpinned by a subtle, intriguing hint of dried quince. As the wine breathes, the background reveals delicate stone fruit nuances of flat peach and ripe nectarine, seamlessly interwoven with sweet hints of wildberry. A trained nose could also detect very subtle whispers of fresh oak, which, though unexpected given its stainless steel aging, contributes an intriguing depth to the wine’s otherwise fruit-forward bouquet.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: medium+ | tannin: ripe | balance: good
finish: long | aftertaste: rich & vibrant

On the palate, the wine delivers a truly captivating tasting experience. It feels very well structured, boasting a rich and vibrant fruity character, supported by a beautifully round mouthfeel. The wine feels refreshingly crisp, harmonious, and well-balanced – a testament to its careful craftsmanship. It forms a dry mouthfeel, with a lively and refreshing acidity that invigorates the senses and keeps the palate engaged. The alcohol is well-integrated, contributing to the wine’s body without overpowering its delicate fruit. Subtle, ripe tannins provide just the right amount of grip, adding to its refined texture, leading to a long and rich aftertaste that lingers pleasantly, beckoning for another sip.

maturity: in its prime | drink now or within a year
verdict: great | a benchmark wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

Overall, this is an expressively-fruity rosé wine with an incredibly vibrant fruity profile. It stands out with its appealing and ripe mouthfeel, earning its place as one of the best rosé wines we have tasted so far. This rosé wine is all about vibrancy and finesse, making it an undeniable crowd-pleaser that combines vibrancy with freshness. The wine is currently in its prime form, ready to be enjoyed today or within a year, as it perfectly embodies the essence of a refreshing and complex rosé designed for youthful enjoyment.

This crisp rosé pairs exceptionally well with light summer dishes, making it a perfect companion for a relaxed meal. Its vibrant acidity and fruit-forward profile will complement beautifully any grilled seafood, such as prawns with lemon and herbs, or pan-seared scallops. For a truly unique pairing, consider a traditional apulian dish like ‘Orecchiette con cime di rapa‘ (orecchiette with turnip greens), where the wine’s herbaceous undertones would find a harmonious echo in the savory notes of the dish. Cheers!

VARVAGLIONE | Susumaniello Rosé | 2023
variety: susumaniello
country: Italy
region: Puglia | Salento
rating: 94.7

The Susumaniello grape, from which this exquisite rosé is made, has a rather charming and quirky backstory. Its name, meaning ‘little donkey’ in the local puglian dialect, was coined because the grape variety produces such abundant fruit that it literally weighs down the vines, much like a loaded donkey. This ancient puglian grape variety was once perilously close to extinction, traditionally relegated to blending due to its prolific yield. However, thanks to the dedication of passionate producers like Varvaglione, Susumaniello has been rescued and rehabilitated, now shining as a star in premium, single-varietal wines.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!