PRINCE STIRBEY | Tamaioasa Romaneasca | 2022
tamaioasa romaneasca

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Prince Știrbey winery, nestled in the historic Drăgășani region of Romania, boasts a winemaking legacy spanning over 300 years, passionately revived by Baroness Ileana Kripp-Costinescu – a direct descendant of the princely family, and her husband, Jakob Kripp. Their vision is deeply rooted in expressing the unique terroir of Drăgășani through indigenous romanian grape varieties. They are pioneers in sustainable and eco-friendly viticulture, believing that true quality emerges from respecting the land and allowing the grapes to speak for themselves rather than overwrite what nature has to offer with the winemaker’s signature style. This allows them to craft wines of remarkable character and authenticity, making them a reference winery.
Today we are going to review a single varietal tamaioasa romaneasca wine from the Dealurile Olteniei wine region of Romania – Tamaioasa Romaneasca 2022 by Prince Stirbey. Tamaioasa Romaneasca (also known as Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains and Muscat of Alexandria) is a branch variety of the Muscat family – an extremely aromatic variety of grapes that are very sensitive to frost, drought, excess of moisture, susceptible to powdery mildew and vulnerable to blight and botrytis. Muscat is believed to originate from the Ancient Greece and is cultivated for at least 2000 years in Romania under various names (Muscat Frontignan, Busuioaca de Moldova, Tamaioasa Alba de Dragasani, Rumanische Weihrauchtraube). Crafted by Prince Știrbey – a winery renowned for its dedication to indigenous grape varieties and sustainable viticulture, this particular wine aims to capture the grape’s extraordinary floral-spicy bouquet while retaining a lively acidity. Vinified dry, this wine embodies a specific approach to an otherwise versatile aromatic varietal, produced in a limited edition of just 4878 bottles, making it a unique glimpse into the region’s vinous potential.

Nestled between the Danube river, the southern Carpathian mountains, and the Olt river, Romania’s Oltenia wine region spans hilly landscapes, ranging from about 90 to 400 meters in elevation, featuring sun-drenched slopes with south-to-west-facing exposures. The area benefits from a temperate continental climate with hot summers and warm autumns, moderate precipitation and abundant sunshine, all of which support a prolonged growing season. Soils her vary from alluvial deposits of cernoziom and clay, to alluvial soils with sandy and rocky subsoils, providing good drainage.

Historically, Oltenia was a viticultural powerhouse, contributing up to a third of Romania’s red wine production in the pre-phylloxera era. Today, the region is famous for its terroir-driven sub-appellations such as Dragășani, Segarcea, Banu Mărăcine, Mehedinți, producing terroir-driven wines that range from aromatic whites to deep, characterful reds.

color: pale yellow color
clarity: straw-yellow hues

The boasts a pale yellow color, radiating vibrancy and youth, with transparent straw-yellow hues towards the rim of the glass.

intensity: rich & floral
fruit character: overripe

On the nose, this wine is nothing short of captivating, offering a rich and floral aromatic profile with an overripe fruit character. The foreground bursts with an array of sweet notes, reminiscent of lychee, honey, dried figs, and beeswax. These are beautifully intertwined with an invigorating bouquet of floral aromas, including rose petals, lilly, iris, daisy, acacia, lindenflower, and honeysuckle. As the aromas evolve, the background reveals more intriguing layers: succulent stone fruits, notably apricot, complemented by honeyed undertones and a charmingly sweet jammy touch, evoking memories of quince jam and white cherry jam. The aromatic complexity is truly impressive, showcasing the full varietal typicity of the Muscat-family grape variety with an interplay of primary fruit and floral notes.

sweetness: dry | acidity: medium- | alcohol: high | tannin: medium- | balance: good
finish: medium- | aftertaste: rough & austere

While the olfactory experience is extremely pronounced, the palate, unfortunately, presents a different profile. The wine’s acidity feels flat, failing to provide the much-needed lift and freshness that would balance the wine’s rich aromatic intensity. There’s a discernible touch of alcoholic warmth that is quite pronounced, contributing to a somewhat heady sensation. This warmth is compounded by a persistent phenolic bitterness, making the mouthfeel rough and seedy, rather than smooth and ample. The overall impression is one of an angular and slightly sharp wine, despite the wine’s oily and full-bodied profile. This results in an unbalanced wine, where the overwhelming alcoholic warmth and austere phenolic bitterness overshadow the beautiful aromatic potential promised by the nose, culminating in a seedy-austere aftertaste that lacks finesse and elegance.

maturity: in its prime | drink now or within a year
verdict: fine | highly recommended | a wine of premium quality

All in all, the wine displays amazing varietal typicity of the Muscat-family grape, particularly on the nose, showcasing its intense floral and sweet fruit aromatics. However, this is a wine that unfortunately lacks any form of finesse and elegance on the palate, as it feels angular, sharp, and unbalanced, mostly due to its flat acidity, noticeable alcoholic warmth, and an austere phenolic bitterness. Despite these structural challenges, the wine is currently in its prime form, and we recommend drinking it today or within a year.

Given the wine’s intensely aromatic nose and slightly bitter palate, we would suggest to pair it with spicy asian specialties, such as a fragrant Thai Green Curry with coconut milk and chicken, or a vibrant Vietnamese Lemongrass Tofu. The aromatic richness of the wine will find a congruent partner in the complex spices of the dish, while the dish’s inherent sweetness and creamy texture can help to soften the wine’s warm angularity and phenolic bitterness. Cheers!

PRINCE STIRBEY | Tamaioasa Romaneasca | 2022
variety: tamaioasa romaneasca
country: Romania
region: Oltenia | Dealurile Olteniei
rating: 92.4

The Tămâioasa Românească grape variety boasts a fascinating history: it was likely brought to the Drăgășani region of Romania by greek and roman settlers during the age of Roman Empire. This particular wine is a testament to its unique heritage, being produced in a limited edition of only 4878 bottles.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!