SCHLOSS VOLLRADS | Schlossberg GG | Rheingau | Riesling | 2016
riesling

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Schloss Vollrads boasts an unparalleled history as one of the world’s oldest wine estates, with documented winemaking dating back to 1211. Nestled in the heart of Germany’s Rheingau region, this historic castle estate has been a vanguard of quality and innovation for many centuries. It holds the distinction of being the site of the first ever documented sale of wine in a bottle – a testament to its forward-thinking approach. The estate’s vision has always been centered on showcasing the purity and potential of Riesling, focusing on dry, terroir-driven expressions from its prized monopole vineyards.
Today we are going to review a legendary and genuine, single-varietal riesling wine from Rheingau – one of Germany’s most famous wine regions – Schlossberg GG Rheingau Riesling 2016 by Schloss Vollrads. Riesling must be the world’s most misunderstood grape variety, as the resulting wines are unlike any others – light in alcohol, high in natural acidity, with the ability to transmit the terrior through its extract and minerality and, what makes it stand out from the crowd, riesling wines are capable of ageing for decades. Relative to other internationally grape varieties, riesling ripens quite early, so when planted in a hot climate its juice can be overripe and flabby, while in a cool climate it has the chance to stay on the vine late into the autumn, hence the german obsession with late harvest riesling wines.

Germany have championed single-varietal wines since the first mass plantings of riesling at Schloss Johannisberg in 1720 in Rheingau. Since then, Germany has become the world’s top riesling producer, developing a wide range of styles from dry and crisp to lusciously sweet. Dry styles of riesling are becoming increasingly popular – you can identify them by the term “Trocken” on the label (which translates as “dry”). But the wine we are reviewing today is from a completely different category – the “GG” (Grosses Gewächs) designation on the label is Germany’s answer to the french Grand Cru, signifying a top-tier, dry wine sourced from the country’s best single vineyards – this is the highest classification level for dry wines for VDP members (Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter e.V. – the association of german predicate wineries). Within the “GG” designation, the grapes must be sourced from a single vineyard – a Grosse Lage (great growth). None of the Großes Gewächs wines will be released before the first weekend of September of the year following the harvest. GG is the epitome of a top-tier riesling.

Perched along a gentle, east-to-west bend of the Rhine river, just west of Wiesbaden, Rheingau is one of Germany’s most historic and prestigious wine regions. The Rhine river’s unusual course exposes south-facing slopes to maximum sunlight, while the nearby Taunus Hills shield the vineyards from cold northern winds, which creates a cool continental climate with a prolonged ripening season – ideal for developing riesling’s unmatched balance between phenolic ripeness, exuberant acidity, and mineral complexity.Soils here vary from slate and quartzite in the upper slopes, which lend minerality and precision, to loess and loam in the lower parts, which add roundness and body. Riesling is king here, dominating plantings (over 75%) and producing all styles of wines, from bone-dry, racy Trocken wines, to opulent, late-harvest Auslese and Trockenbeerenauslese gems. Spätburgunder (the german name for Pinot Noir) can also be found here, mostly in the warmer pockets, yielding lean, elegant and aromatic red wines. Today, Rheingau wines are celebrated for their laser-like precision, vibrant acidity, and expressive, mineral, terroir-driven signatures, making this region a benchmark for top-tier Riesling wines with worldwide recognition.

color: medium-deep straw-yellow color
clarity: clear greenish hues

In the glass, the wine displays a medium-deep, straw-yellow color, indicative of its age and concentration. Bright greenish hues at the rim lend a touch of  vibrancy, hinting at the wine’s underlying freshness.

intensity: pronounced & citrusy-mineral
fruit character: ripe

On the nose, this wine delivers a quintessential citrusy-mineral nuance, supported by a ripe fruit character. In the foreground, a vibrant symphony of citrus notes unfolds, featuring lemon, white grapefruit, lemon zest, and hints of pomelo. Interwoven within this citrus core are the unmistakable hints of the classic Riesling petroleum tones – a hallmark of an aged, high-quality Riesling wine – supported by a profound minerality expressed through notes of flint, slate, and chalk – all of them hinting at the wine’s terroir. As the bouquet evolves, the background reveals a sophisticated herbal tapestry, with evocative aromas of hay, wormwood, meadow, and straw grass, adding a rustic charm to an already sophisticated aromatic profile. These are delicately complemented by whispers of green fruits and an elegant touch of nutty hints, contributing to an impressive aromatic complexity and depth that invites continuous exploration.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: low | balance: good
finish: long | aftertaste: velvety-crisp

On the palate, the delivers a velvety-crisp and vibrant, citrusy-mineral mouthfeel, echoing the wine’s aromatic profile. It reveals a firm, zesty, and very well-structured palate, showcasing remarkable vibrancy and precision. There’s a subtle, yet delightful, phenolic bitterness that adds an extra layer of complexity and a pleasantly-seedy texture, contributing to the wine’s sophisticated character. A well-integrated touch of alcohol adds a pleasant warmth and contributes to the wine’s substantial body, without ever feeling overpowering. The harmony between all these elements is exceptional, leading to a profound complexity and remarkable length. The finish is nothing short of superb, culminating in a velvety-crisp aftertaste that lingers gracefully, leaving a lasting impression of elegance, focus, and true varietal expression.

maturity: in its prime | drink now or within a year
verdict: great | a benchmark wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

All in all, this is a remarkably complex and rich Riesling wine with a firm and zesty profile. It stands as a textbook example of a cold-climate Riesling, with nuanced yet refined petroleum notes and astonishing varietal typicity, making it a blueprint for exceptional quality german Riesling. The wine displays very clearly the unique footprint of its Rheingau terroir – evident in its herbal, mineral, and earthy undertones – a true epitome of an age-worthy Rheingau Riesling. Having already achieved 9 years of age, this wine is currently in its absolute prime form. Its intricate balance of fruit, minerality, and acidity indicates a wine at the peak of its expressive power and finesse. We recommend drinking it now or within a year to fully appreciate its developed complexity and vibrant character, as further aging is not advised given its current peak – the wine has already unveiled its majestic potential.

Given the wine’s pronounced citrusy-mineral profile and those appealing herbal-nutty undertones, it would pair lovely with pan-seared scallops served with a lemon-butter caper sauce and a side of saffron risotto. The wine’s vibrant acidity will cut nicely through the richness of the scallops and the butter sauce, while the mineral notes in the wine will resonate with the delicate sweetness of the seafood. In the same key, he subtle nutty hints will complement beautifully the creamy texture of the risotto, thus offering a delightful contrast in textures and flavors, thus elevating the whole tasting experience. Enjoy!

SCHLOSS VOLLRADS | Schlossberg GG | Rheingau | Riesling | 2016
variety: riesling
country: Germany
region: Rheingau
rating: 95.5

Schloss Vollrads is recognized as one of the oldest wine estates in the world, with its winemaking heritage officially documented as far back as 1211. This estate also made history in 1710 by being the site of the first ever documented sale of wine in a bottled format – a pivotal moment in wine commerce. Furthermore, the Schlossberg vineyard, from which a portion of these grapes are sourced, is a ‘monopole’ vineyard, meaning it is managed exclusively by Schloss Vollrads, granting them complete control over its exceptional quality.

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