KTIMA GEROVASSILIOU | Chardonnay | 2023
chardonnay

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Ktima Gerovassiliou was founded by Vangelis Gerovassiliou in 1981, who revived the family’s vineyard in Epanomi. Trained in oenology at the University of Bordeaux under the tutelage of the legendary Professor Emile Peynaud, then gaining important experience at Domaine Porto Carras, where he revived the nearly extinct Malagousia grape variety, Vangelis brought his dedication to quality and innovation home to Epanomi, where he promoted Ktima Gerovassiliou to a benchmark winery on the greek wine scene.
Today we are going to review a single varietal and single vineyard chardonnay wine that comes from the sun-drenched Epanomi PGI, which is sub-region of Macedonia PDO in northern Greece – Chardonnay 2023 by Ktima Gerovassiliou. Chardonnay is one of the world’s most famous grape varieties, regarded by many as the ‘Queen of Whites‘ and is prized for its flexibility and for the ability to produce top-notch wines in a wide range of climates and terroirs. Stylistically, there are two main types of chardonnay wines: on one hand we have the classic, creamy and rich, oak-aged style, that is backed up by winemakers in Napa Valley and most of the Grand Cru in Bourgogne, whereas on the other hand there’s the crisp, zingy and citrusy, unoaked style, that is mainly promoted by the new-world producers and most of the winemakers in the Chablis region.

Today’s wine is from the first category, as it has been fermented and aged in French oak barrels, which means that the wine went through the malolactic conversion – a process where the crisp, malic acid in the wine is converted into a more softer, lactic acid, thus the wine becomes less tart and more silky, gaining more structure and finesse, thus rounding up its palate. In the barrels, the wine spent a few more months on fine lees (sur lie ageing), gaining in body and enriching its aromatic profile.

The Epanomi wine region, situated in the northern part of Greece, near the city of Thessaloniki, benefits from a Mediterranean climate, surrounded on three sides by the sea, and is characterized by mild winters and hot summers. Proximity to the sea provides cooling breezes that moderate extreme temperatures, allowing the grapes to ripen fully while retaining vital acidity, while the sandy soils, with calcareous rocks imbued with sea fossils, provide excellent drainage, fostering healthy vine growth. This micro-terroir is particularly favorable for cultivating indigenous varieties like Assyrtiko and Malagousia, resulting in fresh and well-balanced wines. High diurnal ranges between day and night temperatures allow the grapes to mature slowly, which provides a firm backbone to the wines, with fresh acidity and a firm tannic structure.

color: medium-deep yellow color
clarity: bright & clear golden hues

In the glass, the wine presents a medium-deep yellow color, shimmering with bright golden hues at the rim. Its clarity and brilliance are impeccable, signaling a wine of immense concentration and intensity.

intensity: pronounced & oaky
fruit character: ripe & dried

The aromatic profile is rich and pronounced, with an oak-driven accent. The foreground is dominated by a bouquet of ripe orchard fruits, including yellow pear, golden apple, quince, and a touch of apricot, complemented by a subtle tropical note of pineapple. These primary fruit aromas are seamlessly interwoven with well-integrated secondary notes from the French oak, with hints of vanilla bean, fresh oakwood, and a delicate nuance of sun-dried oak. In the background, additional layers of complexity emerge with herbal hints of hay and dried herbs, a faint whisper of dried quince, and an elegant floral touch of acacia blossom, creating a multifaceted and inviting nose.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: medium+ | balance: good
finish: long | aftertaste: rich & oaky

On the palate, the wine is rich and expressive, with a firm touch, unfolding with a complex and well-structured character. It has a full body and a round, almost oily texture on the mouthfeel. The wine tastes dry, with crisp and bright acidity that provides remarkable freshness and counterpoints the wine’s inherent richness. A well-integrated touch of alcoholic warmth contributes to the wine’s ample frame, while a hint of ripe, fine-grained tannins provides subtle structure. All of that culminates in a long and persistent finish that leaves a rich and distinctly oaky aftertaste.

maturity: developing | drink now or within the next 2 or 3 years
verdict: great | a benchmark wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

Overall, this is a blueprint, modern, warm-climate Chardonnay wine that is both powerful and elegant. It stands as a textbook example of its varietal, skillfully blending the structural charm of a french classic with the generous nuance of an oak-driven new world Chardonnay. The wine is still in the developing phase, showcasing a beautiful tension between the richness of the fruit and the much appealing oak integration. We recommend enjoying it today or within the next 2 to 3 years, which will allow the wine to develop greater harmony and develop more complex tertiary notes.

To complement the wine’s rich texture and complex flavor profile, a dish with both weight and freshness is required. We suggest pairing it with pan-seared scallops served atop a creamy parmesan and lemon zest risotto. The richness of the scallops and the creamy risotto creates a congruent pairing that matches the wine’s full body, while the acidity from the lemon zest will cut through the richness of the wine and harmonize with the bright acidity, creating a truly elevated and memorable tasting experience. Enjoy!

KTIMA GEROVASSILIOU | Chardonnay | 2023
variety: chardonnay
country: Greece
region: Macedonia | Epanomi
rating: 94.5

Beyond Vangelis Gerovassiliou’s celebrated revival of Malagousia grape variety, the Ktima Gerovassiliou winery is fascinating in itself – it is a haven for biodiversity, documented to host 28 different bird species, reflecting the health of the ecosystem fostered by sustainable farming practices that promote biodiversity.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!