FAMILIA DARABONT | Méthode Traditionnelle | Brut | 2021
chardonnay | feteasca regala | riesling

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The story of Familia Darabont is deeply rooted in Romanian winemaking, spanning three generations of dedication and passion for crafting exceptional wines. The winery, established in 2014, is situated in the picturesque Biharia comune of the Bihor County, in the western Romania. It strives to merge traditional romanian viticulture with modern winemaking techniques, with the commitment to quality and the reflection of the unique local terroir that is reflected throughout their wine range.
Today we are going to review a quite intriguing sparkling wine wine from the relatively unknown Crisana wine region, situated in the western part of Romania – Méthode Traditionnelle Brut 2021 by Familia Darabont. This wine is a blend of chardonnay (which forms the wine’s main body and structure), feteasca regala (which lends a distinctive floral accent and enhance the wine’s aromatic complexity) and riesling (which adds aromatic intensity and mouth-watering acidity), produced by the authentic méthode traditionelle technique (also called the champenoise method), the same way the famous Champagne wines are made in France, with a long period of second fermentation in the bottle. After the second fermentation, the wine was aged for 24 months on fine lees (sur lie ageing), which allowed it to develop aromatic sophistication, an extra layer of complexity and the much desired creaminess on the palate. This is also a millésime sparkling wine, which means that it was created from a single harvest, and from a single vineyard, that of 2021.

When it comes to sparkling wines, not all of them are created the same way. One of the key differences lies in how the bubbles are formed – specifically, whether the wine undergoes its second fermentation in the bottle (traditional method) or in large pressurized tanks (tank method, also known as charmat method). In the tank method the secondary fermentation happens in stainless steel tanks rather than individual bottles. This process is quicker, more cost-effective, and preserves the wine’s vibrant fruit character and freshness. The result is a more aromatic, easy-drinking sparkling wine with crisp acidity and minimal yeasty complexity (think of Prosecco). On the other hand, the traditional method is a more time-intensive process, as the second fermentation happens in the bottle, where the wine also ages on the fine lees (the dead yeast particles) for extended periods, from several months to several years. This slow aging builds extra layers of complexity on the nose and creates a creamy textures on the palate (think of classic sparkling wines like Champagne, Cava, or Franciacorta).

The Crișana wine region, located in northwestern Romania along the border with Hungary, boasts a rich viticultural heritage influenced by its geographical position. The soil composition in Crisana is diverse, encompassing volcanic rocks rich in iron, sandstone mixed with marl, and fertile brown soils, each contributing to the complexity of the wines produced here, enabling versatile grape varieties like merlot or chardonnay to develop a broad spectrum of flavors. The temperate-continental climate, with extended summers and mild winters offer almost ideal conditions for grape growing, ensuring grapes achieve full ripeness while maintaining freshness. Vineyards are typically situated at elevations between 125 and 234 meters above sea level, benefiting from the moderating effects of nearby rivers. The significant diurnal temperature variations between day and night preserves the natural acidity of the grapes, resulting in fresh and vibrant wines with good aging potential.

color: deep yellow color
clarity: pale yellow hues

The wine presents a captivating deep yellow color, accented by pale yellow shades towards the rim of the glass. A persistent stream of fine bubbles form a delightful perlage at the surface, indicative of a high-quality traditional method sparkling wine.

intensity: pronounced & butter
fruit character: ripe

On the first nose, this wine unveils a pronounced buttery character, revealing a complex tapestry of aromas. The foreground delivers a ripe fruit character with a rich and opulent medley of bread and butter notes, reminiscent of homemade butter, baguette, toasted bread crust, brioche, crème brûlée, oatmeal, and panna cotta. These are beautifully intertwined with nuanced leesy-yeasty undertones, hinting at the wine’s extensive sur lie ageing. As the wine breathes, the background uncovers a refreshing citrus and orchard fruit aromas, notably lemon, pear, and quince, providing a delightful counterpoint to the rich leesy notes. A subtle herbal touch of hay and coriander seeds adds an extra layer of complexity.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: medium+ | tannin: low | balance: good
finish: long | aftertaste: appealingly-crisp

On the palate, this is a remarkably rich sparkling wine that maintains a lean and round mouthfeel. A pleasant touch of residual sweetness is present, perfectly integrated and balanced by a mouth-watering acidity. The wine feels bright and zesty, providing a vibrant backbone and a well-integrated alcohol level that contributes to its overall balance without overpowering the fruit. A quite appealing touch of phenolic bitterness emerges towards the finish, adding a layer of extra structure, giving it an intriguing edge. All of this culminates in an appealingly-crisp aftertaste that lingers pleasantly, inviting for yet another sip.

maturity: in its prime | drink now or within the next 2 to 3 years
verdict: great | benchmark wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

Overall, this is wine stands as a testament to the incredible potential of romanian winemaking – a quite complex, nicely structured, and very well-balanced sparkling wine, where every element finds its harmonious place. The pleasant phenolic bitterness adds an unexpected dimension, whereas the nose manages to capture the essence of a vintage Champagne. All in all this is a textbook example of Méthode Traditionnelle sparkling wine, boasting a crisp mouthfeel that is complemented beautifully by a subtle creaminess on the palate. The wine is currently in its prime form, exhibiting delightful freshness and complexity, making it ready to be enjoyed today or within the nest 2 to 3 years.

Considering its complex and versatile aromatic profile, this sparkling wine requires pairings that can stand up to its richness. We would recommend pairing it with aeared acallops served alongside meyer lemon beurre blanc and garnished with crispy prosciutto. The inherent sweetness of the scallops will harmonize with the wine’s subtle residual notes, while the zesty acidity of the lemon in the beurre blanc will cut beautifully through the richness of the wine, mirroring its bright acidity. The crispy, salty prosciutto will provide a delightful textural contrast and a savory counterpoint to the wine’s creamynotes, creating a ‘wow-effect’ and an unforgettable culinary experience. Enjoy!

FAMILIA DARABONT | Méthode Traditionnelle | Brut | 2021
variety: chardonnay | feteasca regala | riesling
country: Romania
region: Crisana | Biharia
rating: 94.4

Familia Darabont offers an introduction to the unique character of Biharia micro-region and is committed to sustainability, utilizing eco-friendly practices in their vineyards to ensure their winemaking honors the land. The people, the vineyard, the soil, and the climate – all these factors create the perfect context for crafting exceptional wines.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!