ARGIANO | Brunello di Montalcino | 2020
sangiovese

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The Argiano winery stands as one of Montalcino’s most illustrious estates, boasting a legacy of winemaking that stretches back over four centuries, with its first records dating to 1580. This esteemed property has seen many custodians over the centuries, each contributing to its rich tapestry, before finding its contemporary zenith under the capable hands of Bernardino Sani. As CEO and winemaker since 2015, Sani has been instrumental in further elevating Argiano’s reputation, solidifying its place among the region’s elite. The winery’s philosophy is deeply rooted in a profound respect for nature, allowing the unique character of the land to express itself authentically through the fruit. This commitment ensures that Argiano’s wines are not merely products, but genuine reflections of their prestigious origin, crafted with both tradition and precision.

Today we are going to review an iconic wine from Toscana that requires no introduction – Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020 by Argiano. This is a 100% sangiovese wine, made of grapes sourced from within the renowned Brunello di Montalcino denomination of Tsocana – an appellation synonymous with some of the world’s most long-lived and profound sangiovese wines. This wine is a single-varietal sangiovese wine, crafted from the ‘brunello‘ clone, sourced from 50 years old vines, which has perfectly adapted to the Montalcino‘s unique terroir, yielding wines of remarkable structure, aromatic intensity, and incredible aging potential. The winemaking process emphasizes minimal intervention, with fermentation in concrete tanks and aged for a period of 30 months in a combination of traditional for this region Slavonian oak barrels (10/15/30/50HL) and smaller French oak barriques (225L), that marries classic elegance with modern refinement, followed by additional bottle aging time before its market release.

Until relatively recently, sangiovese was considered to be a grape in the wilderness – rustic, delicate and savory, and whenever the name sangiovese would appear on a label, it was far from a guarantee of quality. But sangiovese is and has always been the dominant red grape of Italy. Today, sangiovese is a true chameleon – effortlessly adapting to each particular terroir where it is planted. In that sense, it can vary as much as pinot noir in its sensitivity to the place it is grown in, and like pinot noir, it ripens relatively late. This means that if it is planted in a cooler climate, sangiovese can produce wines that are dangerously tart and even green, but when ideal growing conditions are met (mainly high diurnal range and a prolonged growing season), the sangiovese grape variety is capable to produce wines that would lead you into the realm of perfection. With numerous mutations spread all over Italy, this versatile grape variety can create wines with strikingly diverse flavor profiles: from the delicate and floral Montefalco Rosso wines, to the bold and tannic wines of Brunello di Montalcino. The one thing that the sangiovese grape variety cannot hide is its flavour profile, but now that the right clones have been identified and are increasingly popular, the sangiovese grape variety is allowed to shine in all its glory, and it is beautiful.

The Toscana region has long boasted an impressive reputation in the world of great wines, earning its prestige as one of the most promising and creative production areas in the world of wine as a result of a number of forward-thinking producers that experimented with international grape varieties modern winemaking techniques. It is home to some of the world’s most famous wines known as ‘Super Tuscan‘.

Brunello di Montalcino classification is set in south-east of Tuscany, and is characterized by its hilly terrain and varying altitudes (up to 600 meters above sea level). The soils here are well-drained, with a mix of clay and schist, enabling robust root growth and providing the much desired local terroir notes, that the sangiovese grape variety is famous for. The region’s climactic shifts, with high diurnal range between day and night temperature, further enhance flavor retention, contributing to the elegance and longevity of the Brunello di Montalcino wines.

Brunello di Montalcino’s wines cannot be released until the 5th year post harvest. Stylistically, there are two schools of thought applied to the ageing of the Brunello di Montalcino wines: the traditional philosophy, where producers use large, Slavonian oak barrels (called botte) that impart very little oak flavours into the final wine and are used simply as vessels to encourage tertiary flavor development through microoxigenation, and the modern philosophy, where producers use mostly new, small French barrels (called barriques) that add more oak flavours into the wine and encourage the development of baking spice flavors, and because oxygen exposure increases due to oak-to-wine surface area, these Brunello di Montalcino wines will often be ready to drink sooner than traditional method wines.

color: medium-deep garnet color
clarity: noble copper shades at the rim

In the glass, this wine presents a captivating medium-deep garnet color, while the rim reveals noble copper shades – a classic tell-tale sign of a developing Sangiovese wine.

intensity: pronounced & noble-rich
fruit character: dehydrated

On the nose, this wine delivers a pronounced and noble-rich aromatic profile, with a dehydrated fruit character. The foreground is an intricate tapestry of dried red fruits: cranberry, wild cherry, red plum, and redcurrant, all mingling with a sophisticated oak influence of sun-dried oakwood, tobacco leaf, and a subtle hint of oaktree bark. A delicate, yet distinct, leathery accent weaves through these primary and secondary notes, adding an extra layer of complexity. As the bouquet unfolds, the background reveals a harmonious blend of herbal nuances, including sage, basil leaf, and a medley of dried herbs. These are beautifully complemented by spicy undertones of red pepper, cloves, and nutmeg. Further depth is provided by an earthy foundation of marl, loam, and clay, evoking the very soil from which it sprang, all gracefully lifted by intriguing hints of wild mint and an elegant, refreshing touch of eucalypt leaf. This multi-layered aromatic complexity is truly a hallmark of a meticulously crafted Sangiovese wine.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: good
finish: long | aftertaste: seedy & crisp

The palate confirms the promise of the nose, delivering a textbook Sangiovese wine vinified in a genuine Tuscan style, showcasing a pronounced dehydrated accent and a pleasantly-seedy mouthfeel. This is the epitome of a modern Sangiovese, standing out as arguably one of the finest wines we have tasted so far. It feels noble and rich, complex and well structured, with an elegant touch of leather, tobacco, and subtle minty hints that resonate with the aromatic profile of the wine. The mouthfeel is dry, invigorated by mouth-watering acidity that provides vibrancy and freshness, counter-balancing by the wine’s inherent richness. A well-integrated touch of alcoholic warmth adds structure without overpowering the intricate flavors. The tannins are ripe and seedy, offering a firm and seedy grip that contributes significantly to the wine’s impressive structure and longevity. The finish is long, leading to a crisp and seedy aftertaste that cleanses the palate and invites for yet another sip.

maturity: in its prime | drink now or in the next 2 years
verdict: great | a benchmark wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

Overall, this is a firm, ample, and rich wine – the epitome of a modern Sangiovese that showcases its roots – a wine that brilliantly combines the delicacy of the local terroir with the inherent richness and expressive varietal fruit character of the Sangiovese grape variety. A key aspect of its elegance is the restrained use of oak, which is almost untraceable and remarkably well-integrated, allowing the pure expression of the grape and terroir to shine. The mouth-watering acidity, coupled with a pleasantly-seedy mouthfeel and a slightly heady finale, are all classic characteristics of a blueprint Sangiovese wine, showcasing its authenticity and outstanding quality. It manages to deliver the terroir-driven footprint of Montalcino – a wine that is currently in its prime form, ready to be enjoyed today or within the next 2 years. This is a wine of reference and a real excellence that masterfully manages to deliver both, the inimitable imprint of its terroir and the unadulterated expression of the Sangiovese grape variety – pure magic.

Given its firm structure and complex flavor profile, this wine calls for equally robust food pairings. For a classic congruent pairing, consider a savory dish such as slow-braised wild boar ragu (pappardelle al ragù di cinghiale), where the wine’s high acidity will effortlessly cut through the richness of the meat sauce, and its earthy, leathery notes will perfectly complement the gamey flavors. Alternatively, pair it with a roasted venison loin served with a reduction of dried cherries and wild mushrooms that would provide a rich contrast and highlight the wine’s dehydrated fruit character. Enjoy!
ARGIANO | Brunello di Montalcino | 2020
variety: sangiovese
country: Italy | Toscana
region: Brunello di Montalcino
rating: 95.3

Argiano winery holds a special place in the annals of Montalcino, not only as one of the region’s oldest estates, but also as one of the pioneering wineries to bottle its own wines as early as the 19th century. The historic villa is a magnificent example of Renaissance architecture, designed by the celebrated architect Baldassarre Peruzzi. The winery is also historically recognized for its innovative spirit, having created ‘Solengo’ in 1995 – one of Tuscany’s original and most influential ‘Super Tuscans’ – a testament to the their continuous pursuit of excellence and innovative winemaking.

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