VASSE FELIX | Syrah | 2022
syrah

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The story of Vasse Felix is the story of Margaret River itself. Established in 1967 by regional pioneer Dr. Tom Cullity, driven by the conviction that the region’s unique maritime climate and ancient soils held the secret to world-class winemaking, Vasse Felix is Margaret River’s founding wine estate. Recognized as one of the great wine regions in the world, Margaret River enjoys a truly unique microclimate which makes it a paradise for grape growing, where vines are planted on well drained, gravely-loam soils, thus capable to deliver wines of velvety elegance, vibrancy of fruit and a great ageing potential.

Today we are going to review a wine that requires no introduction, as this is a genuine single varietal syrah from the lands of Down Under, and one of the most famous wine labels from Australia – Syrah 2022 by Vasse Felix. In a world where bolder is better, syrah is the perfect choice, as it is darker and spicier than cabernet sauvignon and contains a high amounts of health-invigorating antioxidants. Syrah, also known as Shiraz, and can be vinified in two major styles: old-world style and new-world style. The old-world syrah wines tend to have more acidity and displays earthy-herbaceous aromas on the nose, while the new-world shiraz wines are usually dusty and fruit-forward, with lots of spice and nuanced hints of smoke.

Today’s wine is a quintessential example of the former – sourced from the estate’s premier vineyards in the cooler, southern reaches of Margaret River in Western Australia. The 2022 vintage saw a cool spring and a warm, dry summer, resulting in a low-yielding season with concentrated fruit of surprising delicacy and elegance. The winemaking process is designed to preserve this vibrancy of the syrah grapes: fermentation with wild yeasts, with a significant portion (35%) fermented with whole bunches, including a part that undergoes carbonic maceration. In order to preserve the natural characteristics of the syrah grapes and add a layer of extra complexity and sophistication, the wine has been aged for 12 months in French oak barrels of different sizes (1000L barrels & 225L barriques) and ages (from 2 to 6 years old), with additional bottle ageing time before it was deemed ready for the market release.

Nestled on a peninsula in Western Australia and flanked by the Indian and Southern oceans, Margaret River enjoys a mediterranean climate with mild, wet winters and warm, dry summers, moderated by cool sea breezes from the surrounding oceans and the Leeuwin Current – thus enjoying a remarkably stable diurnal range that allows for long ripening season. The region is famous for its well structured, complex and age-worthy cabernet sauvignon and refined chardonnay, as well as peppery and dusty syrah/shiraz wines, all exhibiting vibrancy, velvety texture, and elegance that are all about precision and finesse.
Often regarded as the ‘dress circle‘ of Margaret River, Wilyabrup features gently rolling vineyards at low elevation (40–200 m) slightly inland from the coast. Soils here are deep and well‑drained, rich in ironstone and gravel, with loams and clay subsoil, that enhance heat retention by day and cool steadily by night, fostering optimal and prolonged grape ripening. Proximity to the ocean ensures that the grapes preserve their natural acidity and freshness. Renowned producers like Cullen Wines, Moss Wood, Wasse Felix, Fraser Gallop and Ashbrook are located here, further enhancing this sub‑region’s prestige on a worldwide scale.
color: deep ruby color
clarity: purple shades at the rim

In the glass, the wine presents a deep  ruby color, edged by vibrant purple shades at the rim. This appearance is a clear indicator of its youth ad concentration, hinting at the lively character of the wine.

intensity: rich & savory-vibrant
fruit character: ripe & underripe

The olfactory profile is rich and complex, offering a savory and vibrant aromatic profile. The foreground is a dynamic interplay between ripe black fruits, like wild black cherry, succulent blackberry, and dark plum, complemented by savory notes of iron, new leather, and a subtle hint of iodine, all tied together with a nuanced dusty accent. As the wine opens up, a sophisticated background emerges, revealing deep earthy layers of pencil lead, crushed granite, wet asphalt, and forest floor. This earthy core is elegantly woven with an alluring spice blend of peppercorn, anise, turmeric, and a whisper of saffron, complemented by elegant undertones of fine tobacco leaves and cherry tree wood.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: good
finish: long | aftertaste: crisp & lean

The palate confirms the wine’s cool-climate origins, delivering a textbook Syrah experience that is both lean and voluptuous. The mouthfeel is ample and well-structured, with an elegant and energetic backbone. The wine is perfectly dry, driven by exuberant acidity that provides incredible length and vibrancy. The tannins are silky and fine-grained, contributing to a seamless texture without astringency, while a touch of well-integrated alcoholic warmth adds depth and structure to the wine’s body. The tasting experience culminates with a crisp, lean, and persistent aftertaste with a pleasant touch of phenolic bitterness.

maturity: developing | drink now or age for another 3 to 5 years
verdict: great | a benchmark wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

Overall, this is a stunning example of modern australian Syrah wine, as it masterfully combines the delicate, terroir-driven footprint of Margaret River with the rich, expressive character of the Syrah grape variety. The restraint in its use of oak allows the smoky, savory, and vibrant characteristics to intertwingle seamlessly. This is a voluptuous wine with an incredible multi-layered aromatic profile, showcasing the best of both worlds: new world nuance and old world delicacy. The wine is still developing, therefore it might be enjoyed today, but its structural elements suggest that the wine will evolve beautifully over the next 3 to 5 years, gaining further complexity. This is the epitome of a modern Syrah wine that manages to deliver both, the essence of its local terroir and the true expression of the Syrah grape variety.

Given its savory complexity and refined structure, this wine calls for a dish that is equally sophisticated. We suggest a pairing with a spice-rubbed venison loin, served with a wild mushroom and celeriac purée and a tart cherry reduction. This would be a highly complementary pairing, as the peppery and herbal notes of the spice rub will resonate with the wine’s spicy character, the earthiness of the mushrooms will echo the wine’s forest floor undertones, while the richness of the venison will be beautifully balanced by the wine’s vibrant acidity. The tart cherry sauce will create a bridge to the wine’s dark fruit core, creating a harmonious tasting experience that is both memorable and utterly delicious. Enjoy!
VASSE FELIX | Syrah | 2022
variety: syrah
country: Australia
region: Western Australia | Margaret River
rating: 94.5

Vasse Felix’s decision to label this wine ‘Syrah’ instead of the more common ‘Shiraz’ is a deliberate stylistic statement. This choice typically signals an intention to produce a wine in a more elegant, refined and savory style, inspired by the wines from Northern Rhône Valley, rather than the fuller-bodied, fruit-forward style often associated with australian Shiraz. This wine is a perfect embodiment of that philosophy, showcasing the finesse and complexity that Margaret River’s cool-climate terroir can achieve.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!