CRIFO | Grifone | Nero Di Troia | Puglia | 2022
nero di troia

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Crifo (Cantina di Ruvo di Puglia) is a historic wine cooperative founded by a group of local growers with the goal of controlling every stage of production from vineyard to bottle. Known for championing native apulian grape varieties such as Nero di Troia, Bombino Nero and Bombino Bianco, Crifo winery combines tradition with quality-driven practices to express the true character of the region. Its flagship ‘Grifone’ label showcases the intensity, structure and aromatic richness of these indigenous grapes, especially Nero di Troia wines.
Today we are going to review a quite interesting wine from Puglia wine region, located in the south of Italy (right there, in the heel of the boot), which is one of Italy‘s most prolific wine areas – Grifone Nero Di Troia Puglia 2022 by Crifo. This wine is produced entirely from nero di troia grapes – a native apulian grape variety, also known as uva di troia – one of southern Italy’s most characterful red varieties. Its origins are shrouded in legend, with some claiming it arrived from the ancient city of Troy, though its true history is likely rooted in local selection over the course of several centuries. Compared to other southern grapes, nero di troia ripens relatively late and prefers well-exposed, breezy sites to reach full maturity. While historically used mainly in blends to add structure and color, careful vineyard management and modern winemaking techniques have revealed its true potential, yielding wines of intense color, robust tannins, and a distinctive aromatic profile that combines dark fruits with elegant floral and earthy nuances.

Made of grapes that were sourced from the sun-drenched hills of Ruvo di Puglia, this particular wine is a pure expression of this noble grape variety. The winemaking journey begins with careful selection of the grapes, followed by a cool pre-fermentative maceration and fermentation in stainless steel tanks in order to preserve the purity of the varietal expression. The wine then undergoes malolactic fermentation, before being aged for several months in new oak barrels, with additional bottle ageing time before it was deemed ready for the market release.

Situated in the southeastern heel of Italy, Puglia enjoys a mediterranean climate, with long, sun-drenched summers and mild winters, moderated by breezes from both the Adriatic and Ionian seas. These maritime influences help temper intense summer heat and maintain the natural acidity in the grapes, while the prevailing winds reduce disease pressure, making it ideal for low-intervention viticulture. The soils here vary from  limestone and clay in the north and central zones, to sandy loams along the coast, and the iconic terra rossa (iron-rich red earth) in parts of Salento and Manduria, which lend a distinctive mineral grip. Varieties such as Primitivo, Negroamaro, and Nero di Troia are at home in this part of the world, producing fruit-forward reds and elegant whites – all full of vibrant character and regional authenticity.

color: medium-deep ruby color
clarity: hazy ruby shades at the rim

In the glass, the wine presents a captivating, medium-deep ruby color, with intriguing, hazy ruby shades at the rim, hinting at both, its youthful vibrancy and a promising textural richness hidden within.

intensity: rich & smoky
fruit character: overripe

The nose opens with a very rich and smoky nuance, immediately showcasing an overripe black fruit character. A vibrant medley of aronia, blackcurrant, blackberry, black cherry, and black plum dominates the foreground, interwoven with a spicy complex of peppercorn and liquorice. As the aroma evolves, the background reveals appealing oaky notes of toasted oakwood and charred wood, seamlessly merging with a deep earthy profile of graphite, charcoal, granite, black soil, dust, and tar. Elegant hints of violets and new leather complete this multi-layered aromatic tapestry, promising a wine of considerable depth.

sweetness: dry | acidity: medium+ | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: good
finish: medium+ | aftertaste: seedy & ample

On the palate, this wine immediately announces itself as a warm-climate expression crafted in a genuine new world style, boasting pronounced flamboyance and an exceptionally expressive mouthfeel. It tastes firm and ample, displaying a crisp and well-structured character that delivers a rewarding chewiness, complemented by a subtle touch of phenolic bitterness that adds complexity rather than harshness. It is dry, with a pleasant hint of residual sugar – a characteristic often found in apuglian reds. Its crisp acidity provides vivacity and lift, beautifully balancing the nuanced present alcoholic warmth, while the firm tannins offer excellent grip and structure. The wine culminates with a crisp and ample aftertaste, that creates a lasting and satisfying sensation.

maturity: developing | drink now or within a year
verdict: fine | an excellent wine | a wine of premium quality

Overall, this is a compelling wine that stands as the epitome of a modern, new world styled red from a warm climate. The wine is still developing, yet it feels ready to be enjoyed today or within the next year or so, offering a vibrant freshness alongside its nuance. The wine’s inherent hint of residual sugar contributes to its broad appeal, making it a genuine crowd-pleaser. Though it might possess a youthful angularity and perhaps just a touch less finesse and ethereal elegance compared to other italian reds, its robust structure and concentration make it an versatile food wine. It is a testament to Nero di Troia‘s potential to produce wines of significant character and immediate gratification.

Given the wine’s expressive character and smoky accent, it would pair lovely with a slow-braised wild boar ragù, served over fresh pappardelle pasta and finished with a sprinkle of aged Pecorino. The rich, gamey flavors of the boar will harmonize beautifully with the wine’s dark fruit and earthy notes, while the slow-cooking process will tenderize the meat to match the wine’s ample mouthfeel, creating a symphony of flavors that will truly elevate the whole dining experience. Cheers!
CRIFO | Grifone | Nero Di Troia | Puglia | 2022
variety: nero di troia
country: Italy
region: Puglia
rating: 93.3

The legend says that in 1200 B.C., after the conclusion of the Trojan War, the greek hero Diomedes and his returning men, sailing towards Argos, made a stop in what is now apulian coast. Camping in the fertile Ruvo area, they brought with them precious vine cuttings and with the invaluable assistance of local farmers, these vines were planted in the generous apulian soil. The exquisite must juice produced from these grapes was so remarkable that they decided to name it in honor of their homeland: ‘Nero di Troia’ – ‘black of troy’.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!