MENEGOLA | Orante | Valtellina Superiore | 2018
nebbiolo

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For over a hundred years, Cantina Menegola has been synonymous with the rugged winemaking traditions of Valtellina. Since 1850, the Menegola family has cultivated vines with unwavering passion and tenacity, deeply rooted in a profound love for their land. In 2006, the Menegola brothers officially founded their namesake winery, bringing to life a dream that had been nurtured across generations. Their vision is to capture the authentic spirit and unique terroir of Valtellina in every bottle, allowing the magic of Nebbiolo to merge with the surrounding mountainous environment in one of Italy’s most challenging terroirs.

Today we are going to review a single-varietal nebbiolo wine from the Lombardy region in northern Italy – Orante Valtellina Superiore 2018 by Cantina Menegola. Nebbiolo is a very old grape and one of Italy’s most important red varieties that produces the famous Barolo and Barbaresco wines in the Piedmont appellation, known for their pale color, delicate flavours and grippy tannins. The name ‘nebbiolo‘ derives from italian ‘nebbia‘, which means ‘fog‘. It is possible that the name is related to the white, powder-like natural bloom found on the grape berries that appears during harvest season, or maybe it is related to the fact that the best nebbiolo sites are located high above the fog line that covers the most of the vineyards in Piemonte. Nebbiolo is incredibly difficult to grow and manage in the vineyard, as it flowers early, ripens late and can struggle to ripen fully in all but the sunniest sites. It also seems to prefer specific hillside locations and clay or silt-based soils. Nebbiolo is also considered a “terroir-expressive” grape variety, in that it picks up more of the earth, soil and climate characteristics compared to other grape varieties, which means that it can taste wildly different, depending on where exactly it was grown.

Hailing from the steep, terraced vineyards of Valtellina, that is nestled within the northernmost alpine valley of Lombardy, this wine is a testament to the region’s ‘heroic viticulture‘. Known locally as ‘chiavennasca‘, or ‘Nebbiolo from the Alps‘, it offers a distinct profile compared to those from Piemonte, often characterized by a lighter body, pronounced freshness, and savory-rustic minerality. The ‘Superiore‘ designation in Valtellina highlights stricter regulations, including specific aging requirements and higher alcohol content, ensuring a wine of greater complexity and longevity. Grapes are hand-harvested from vines with an average age of 35 years, grown at altitudes of 400-500 meters above sea level. The final wine is then aged for a period of 24 months in french oak barriques of different sizes, with additional 24 months of bottle ageing time before it was deemed ready for the market release.

Nestled between the Alps and the Po River plain, Lombardy is one of Italy’s most diverse wine regions, producing everything from world-class sparkling wines to elegant still reds and whites. Its continental climate varies from cool alpine conditions in the north to warmer, more temperate areas in the south, moderated by the many lakes and rivers that dot the region, particularly Lake Garda and Lake Iseo, which temper extremes and prolong the growing season. Soils are equally varied, ranging from moraine and glacial deposits to limestone and clay, offering excellent drainage and complexity. Lombardy’s most famous appellations include Franciacorta (renowned for the méthode traditionelle sparkling wines) and Valtellina (famous for its ‘nebbiolo delle alpi‘ wines).
Tucked high up in the Alps near the Swiss border, Valtellina is Lombardy’s most distinctive red-wine area and one of the world’s northernmost Nebbiolo sites. Vineyards are planted on steep, south-facing slopes at 300-700m altitude, capturing maximum sunlight while enjoying those cool mountain breezes. The soils are predominantly crushed granite and schist, offering excellent drainage and low fertility that encourage deep root systems and concentrated flavours in the berries. The cool alpine climate, with its high diurnal range, preserves the vibrant acidity and lifts nebbiolo grapes, producing wines of remarkable nuance, with pronounced minerality and tension, often compared to pinot noir for their elegance and delicacy.
color: medium-pale garnet color
clarity: hazy copper shades at the rim

In the glass, this wine presents a medium-pale garnet color, which is characteristic for the Nebbiolo grape variety. Towards the rim of the glass, a delicate haze of copper shades hints at the wine’s varietal typicity and evolving maturity.

intensity: rich & savory
fruit character: dehydrated & dried

The olfactory profile is rich and distinctly savory, revealing a dried and dehydrated fruit character. In the foreground, a vibrant medley of red fruits emerges – notes of cranberry, redcurrant, dried red cherry, and a hint of sour cherry liqueur. Those are beautifully intertwined with a pronounced savory nuance, evoking impressions of cured meat, well-worn old leather, a subtle hint of pork rind, a ferrous note of iron, and a gamey undertone, further complemented by enticing hints of ciorizzo and salami. As the aroma deepens, the background unveils elegant oaky nuances of sun-dried oakwood and oaktree bark. This is seamlessly layered with a complex spicy spectrum, including red pepper, anise, turmeric, and a touch of nutmeg. Whispers of dried tobacco leaves and the unique essence of cherry tree sap add further aromatic sophistication, creating an incredible multi-layered and complex aromatic tapestry.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: good
finish: medium+ | aftertaste: crisp & grippy

On the palate, the wine delivers a textbook, cool-climate, high-altitude Nebbiolo experience. Vinified in a genuine old-world style, marked by a pronounced savory-funky accent and an ample, well structured mouthfeel. It feels firm and grippy, with an impressive balance that showcases its varietal typicity and the footprint of the Valtellina terroir. The wine is bone dry, with crisp acidity that provides a vibrant spine, cutting through the richness if the fruit and lending freshness. A nicely integrated touch of alcoholic warmth adds depth without overpowering the balance, contributing to the wine’s robust structure. The tannins are grippy, with a slight seediness that contributes to the wine’s firm framework. The finish is medium+, leading to a crisp and slightly heady aftertaste that leaves a lasting impression of savory elegance and alpine freshness.

maturity: developing | drink now or in the next 2 to 3 years
verdict: fine | an excellent wine | a wine of premium quality with good potential

Overall, this is a very appealing Valtellina Superiore wine, delivering a heady and crisp experience with amazing varietal typicity of the Nebbiolo grape variety. Its incredible multi-layered and complex aromatic profile defines a blueprint, high-altitude wine. The restraint in its use of oak is commendable, allowing the grapes and terroir to tell their story. This wine delivers an authentic expression of its mountainous origins, currently still developing, offering a unique opportunity to be enjoyed today or to be cellared for another 2 or 3 years. While it may not possess the overt elegance of Barolo or the delicate finesse of Barbaresco, it still excels in its own honest, rustic way, offering an authentic taste of Valtellina‘s winemaking heritage.

Given the wine’s nuanced savory accent and vibrant acidity, it calls for dishes of significant richness and depth. An excellent pairing would be a slow-braised wild boar ragu with polenta. The wine’s crisp acidity would cut through the richness of the boar, while its savory notes would find a congruent harmony with the earthy and robust flavors of the game meat. Alternatively, consider a classic milanese osso buco, where the wine’s structure and freshness would stand up to the hearty veal, while its subtle spice notes would complement the aromatic complexity of the dish. Cheers!
MENEGOLA | Orante | Valtellina Superiore | 2018
variety: nebbiolo
country: Italy
region: Lombardy | Valtellina
rating: 93.0

The Menegola family has been cultivating vines in Valtellina since 1850, making them true custodians of the region’s arduous viticultural heritage. The name ‘Orante’ is Italian for ‘praying’ or ‘supplicating’ – a poignant choice that reflects the family’s deep reverence for their ambitions that has driven them for generations.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!