BODEGAS FRONTONIO | Telescópico | Frontonio | 2022
grenache | alicante bouschet | carignan

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Bodegas Frontonio is the dream of Master of Wine Fernando Mora and winemaker Mario López – a project born from a passion for reviving ancient, high-altitude Garnacha vineyards in the lesser-known region of Valdejalón, Aragon, in northern Spain. Their journey began in a literal garage, embodying a spirit of nonconformist, artisanal winemaking. The heart of their operation is a 200-year-old house with a three-level underground cave, allowing for gentle, gravity-fed processing and almost ideal conditions for aging wine. Their philosophy is one of minimal intervention, where the land and the grapes are left to tell the story.
Today we are going to review a quite remarkable wine from Valdejalón – a rising star within Spain‘s less famous Aragón wine region – Telescópico Frontonio 2022 by Bodegas Frontonio. Until recently, grenache has been ignored in much of the world, even though it’s the grape variety that is responsible for two of the world’s more famous red wines: Châteauneuf-du-Pape and a more recent star Priorat. The main two reasons of the world’s ignorance towards grenache was that it tends to be over-productive when poorly managed and, as thus, it was widely planted in hot regions where cheap bulk wine was the main target (mostly in northern Spain, where it is known as garnacha). In fact grenache was the second most planted grape variety in the world after the infamous airén. But, if carefully managed, garnacha can produce very intense, vibrant and expressive red wines, especially when made of grapes that are sourced from old bush vines. With its upright growth and strong, sturdy trunk, grenache is well suited to being grown as a water-seeking bush vine in hot and windy regions, its only disadvantage is its predilection to set relatively little fruit, which means all the more flavour in the grapes that remain.

Today’s wine is not your typical bold and jammy garnacha, this one is a high-altitude expression of a terroir that showcases the grape’s more elegant and energetic side. This wine is a blend of 46% garnacha fina (the local name for grenache), 28% garnacha peluda (also known as garnacha tintorera or alicante bouschet) and 26% mazuela (the local name for the carignan grape variety), all sourced from 50 to 60-years-old, organically-farmed vineyards from around Valdejalón in Aragón. The winemaking process is deliberately artisanal: grapes are hand-harvested and stomped by foot, fermented with indigenous yeasts only, and aged for 12 to 14 months in large oak foudres (500L), cement tanks and cay amphorae vessels. This meticulous, minimal intervention approach ensures that the final wine is a pure and honest representation of each grape variety and the unique mountain terroir of Valdejalón region.

The elevation of the vineyards in the villages of Épila and Morata (480m-600m) creates a high diurnal temperature shift, where intense daytime sun is balanced by very cool nights, allowing the grapes to ripen fully while preserving exceptional natural acidity. The soils here are a mix of limestone and sand, which provides excellent drainage and imparts a distinct mineral-driven character to the wines. This terroir is what sets this wine apart. While garnacha wines from warmer regions like Priorat or Southern Rhône are more powerful and dense, the high-altitude terroir of Valdejalón produces wines that are more akin to a firm Burgundy red: lighter in body, paler in color, with a taut structure and a focus on red fruit and floral notes – a testament to how the same grape variety can express itself so differently in various terroirs.

Nestled just south of the Pyrenees Mountains, Aragón wine region features a continental climate with hot, dry summers, cold winters, and a notable diurnal temperature range, aided by the cooling ‘cierzo‘ wind that blows through the Ebro River valley. Vineyards are planted across a varied elevation spectrum (350–1100 m), in nutrient-poor, well-drained soils, predominantly chalk, clay, slate, limestone, and alluvial deposits, forcing vines to dig deep and concentrate flavors. The region’s main grapes are Garnacha and Tempranillo, while Carignan, Syrah, and Merlot also thrive here, raising in popularity with each passing season. White varieties like Macabeo and Chardonnay settled well too in this warm region. Wines are typically bold, fruit-driven, with vibrant freshness and structural elegance, reflecting strong regional identity and unique terroir expression. White wines have a pronounced mineral backbone.
Just east of Ebro DO, Valdejalón sub-region enjoys a continental climate with mediterranean influences, marked by warm summers and cool winters. Soils here are varied: limestone, clay, sandy loam, and gravelly terraces, providing excellent drainage and moderating vine vigor. This micro-region supports a wide variety of white grapes (Macabeo, Garnacha Blanca, Chardonnay, Moscatel) but also red varieties (Tempranillo, Garnacha Tinta, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah). This unique terroir favors varietal-driven wines that are vibrant, aromatic, and expressive, making it one of Aragón‘s emerging areas.

color: medium-pale garnet color
clarity: hazy garnet shades at the rim

In the glass, the wine presents a medium-pale garnet color, with hazy garnet shades at the rime – a visual cue that hints at a gentle extraction process and a trademark characteristic of old-world Grenache.

intensity: rich & vibrant
fruit character: ripe

The aromatic profile is rich and vibrant, offering an expressive and ripe fruit character. The foreground delivers a complex medley of bright red fruits: juicy cranberry, wild red cherry, ripe redcurrant, exotic goji berry, and luscious red plum. These primary fruit notes are intricately woven with a profound savory-herbal bouquet, revealing intriguing nuances of caraway, thyme, a hint of iron, and the distinct greenness of tomato stem and the richness of fresh cherry tomatoes, all underpinned by a subtle, almost dusty accent. The background reveals hints of red pepper, earthy undertones of clay, loam, and marl, alongside subtle oak-derived nuances of sun-dried oakwood and oaktree bark, culminating in elegant hints of supple leather and briny brown olive. This creates an incredibly complex, multi-layered, and constantly evolving olfactory experience.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: good
finish: long | aftertaste: crisp & ample

On the palate, this wine delivers a textbook interpretation of a terroir-driven Grenache blend, vinified in a genuine old-world style. It boasts vibrant red fruit flavors, a pronounced savory accent, and a voluptuous, round, and ample mouthfeel that feels both complex and well-structured. It tastes dry, propelled by bright acidity that invigorates the senses and provides immense freshness. A subtle touch of alcoholic warmth adds depth without overwhelming the fruit, while a pleasant phenolic bitterness contributes to the wine’s intricate texture and rich structure. The tannins are ripe and fine-grained, providing a firm yet integrated grip that enhances the wine’s structure and length. The mouthfeel is notably crisp and ample, building to a refreshingly crisp and ample aftertaste with a lingering touch of warmth.

maturity: developing | drink now or in the next 3 to 4 years
verdict: great | a benchmark wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

All in all, this is an ample, voluptuous, and vibrant wine – a truly rich and crisp expression of an old world Grenache-based blend with an incredible multi-layered and complex aromatic profile. It masterfully combines the delicate, mineral-rich footprint of its Valdejalón terroir with the rich, expressive fruit character for which Grenache is famous for. The restraint in its use of oak is commendable, being almost untraceable and perfectly integrated, allowing the varietal purity and terroir to shine. This is a wine of true excellence, currently still developing, ready to be enjoyed today, but it possesses the structure and complexity to evolve beautifully over the next 3 to 4 years, revealing even greater harmony and depth.

Given its vibrant red fruit, savory-herbal character and bright acidity, this wine calls for a sophisticated pairing that can match its intensity and complexity. We would recommend a classic Tournedos Rossini, served with a luscious sour cherry reduction. The richness of the dish and the umami notes of the pan-seared beef tenderloin and foie gras will be beautifully balanced by the wine’s mouth-watering acidity, preventing the palate from becoming fatigued. The sour cherry reduction will create a congruent link with the wine’s bright red fruit profile, amplifying those delicate nuances. Furthermore, the wine’s savory hints of iron, thyme, and leather will harmonize lovely with the earthy and luxurious components of the dish, creating a complex and memorable culinary experience that elevates both the food and the wine. Cheers!
BODEGAS FRONTONIO | Telescópico | Frontonio | 2022
variety: grenache | alicante bouschet | carignan
country: Spain
region: Aragón | Valdejalón
rating: 94.1

Bodegas Frontonio’s name is an act of rebellion, inspired by the legend of San Frontonio – a local saint and the patron saint of Épila. The legend says that he was martyred by the Romans, beheaded, and his head was cast into the Ebro River. In an act of defiance, his head was later found floating upstream, against the river’s current – a perfect metaphor for the winery’s mission to defy convention and restore a forgotten heritage.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!