PURCARI | Negru de Purcari | Amphorae Edition | 2021
cabernet sauvignon | saperavi | rara neagra

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The story of Château Purcari traces its origins back to the distant year of 1560 when, by royal decree, Alexandru Lăpușneanu bestowed the Purcari region to the Căpriana Monastery, which at the time was under the protection of the Zografu Monastery of Mount Athos. Thereafter, in 1827, Tsar Nicholas I of Russia issued a decree, leading to the establishment of the first specialized wine estate in Moldova at Purcari.
Today we are going to review an unique wine from the Stefan Voda region – one of Moldova‘s most celebrated wine districts – a wine that is considered by many a reference point – Negru de Purcari Amphorae Edition 2021 by Château Purcari. This wine is a reinterpretation of the legendary Negru de Purcari – a harmonious blend of three grape varieties: cabernet sauvignon (75%), saperavi (20%) and rara neagra (5%), where cabernet sauvignon forms the wine’s main body and structure, saperavi adds color depth and black fruit flavors, while rara neagra adds those delicate, savory-driven hints of leather and iodine, thus delivering that local rustic charm and forming a leaner and a more dynamic finish. Supervised by the renowned italian winemaker Federico Giotto, the Purcari team revived the ancient art of amphora vinification – a method that allows the wine to breathe and reveal its true complexity over time. This wine was conceived as an exploration of history, a tribute to oenological mastery, and a sensory experience for true connoisseurs – a wine that captures the authentic character of the local terroir, expressing both purity and depth, a tribute to ancient craftsmanship, reborn through innovation, where past meets the present.

The winemaking process is a fusion of traditional and modern techniques: after hand-harvesting of the grapes, the must ferments in italian clay amphorae (TaVa), where it also remains on skins for four months. The amphorae’s natural micro-oxygenation enhances the wine’s aromatic complexity, while preserving the authentic varietal character of each grape variety. The wine is then transferred into french oak barriques (Seguin Moreau), where it is aged for another 18 months, resulting in a total of 22 months of ageing, with additional bottle ageing time before it was deemed ready for the market release, resulting in a wine that captures both, the purity of its fruit expression and the complexity of classic Bordeaux-styled blend.

The grapes for this wine are sourced from the Purcari micro-zone within the Stefan Voda IGP. Situated at approximately 50 km from the Black Sea and near the Dniester River, the vineyards here benefit from a moderate continental climate with significant maritime influence, which tempers the extremes of both summer and winter. The Stefan Voda wine region is distinguished by its diverse landscapes and warm continental climate, which allows for optimal grape ripening, especially suited for red grape varieties. The soil is rich in minerality, comprising clay and loam, that provides excellent drainage and supports vital nutrients for the vine growing. This unique soil composition, combined with the region’s distinct microclimate, that balances an abundance of sun exposure with refreshing rainfall, tempered by the cool breezes from the Black Sea, contributes to the expressive and rich profile of the resulting wines. This unique terroir yields grapes with a perfect balance of aromatic finesse, structural integrity, and natural freshness, resulting in wines that are powerful yet elegant, and deeply expressive of its origin.
color: deep & opaque purple color
clarity: hazy indigo shades at the rim

In the glass, the wine presents a deep and opaque purple color, nearly impenetrable at its core, with hazy indigo shades towards the rim of the glass, hinting at its concentration and vibrancy.

intensity: rich & savory
fruit character: ripe

The nose is both rich and delicately savory, opening with an intense and inviting aromatic profile of ripe black fruits. The foreground is dominated by a wave of black plum, dark cherry, blackcurrant, and blackberry, interwoven with complex savory notes of old leather, iron, and a hint of brown olive and iodine. This initial impact is lifted by subtle hints of violets and dried figs. In the background, a rich layer of spicy and oaky aromas emerges, revealing notes of sweet tobacco, cloves, anise, and nutmeg, seamlessly integrated with an earthy backbone of black soil, pencil lead, clay, and loam, all rounded out by whispers of vanilla and juniper berries.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: good
finish: lasting | aftertaste: crisp & grippy

The palate feels crisp, ample, and voluptuous, mirroring the complexity promised by the nose. It delivers a savory-delicate accent with a round, harmonious, and multi-layered mouthfeel. The wine’s structure is impeccable, built on a foundation of crisp acidity that brings vibrancy and freshness. The tannins are fine-grained and well-integrated, providing an appealing, grippy texture and a pleasant touch of phenolic bitterness that adds depth. The alcohol is seamlessly woven into the wine’s fabric, presenting as a gentle warmth rather than heat. The body is rich and expressive, leading to a long and persistent finale.

maturity: developing | drink now or age for another 3 to 5 years
verdict: great | a benchmark wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

Overall, this is a rich, expressive, and incredibly complex wine. It manages to combine the delicacy and restraint of an old world styled wine with the richness and savouriness of the new world blend, all while showcasing a very subtle, but intriguing astringency reminiscent of georgian, qvevri-aged wines. The oak is masterfully restrained, allowing the terroir-driven aromas to shine through. While the wine feels ready to be enjoyed today, it is still very much a wine on the rise, with subtle hints of the future elegance it will undoubtedly achieve with time. Our recommendation would be to age it for another 3 to 5 years in order to allow its many layers to fully manifest themselves, thus raising the wine higher on the hedonistic scale.

This complex wine calls for dishes of equal stature. A perfect complementary pairing would be an aged, thick-cut beef steak, where the wine’s firm tannins will be softened by the meat’s soft textures, while its crisp acidity will slice through the richness of the meat. For a more congruent experience, try duck with rich plum sauce. The dark fruit notes in the wine will echo the flavors of the sauce, creating a seamless and harmonious pairing while the gamey hints of the dish would be harmoniously balanced by the savory notes in the wine, elevating the whole tasting experience to new heights. Enjoy!
PURCARI | Negru de Purcari | Amphorae Edition | 2021
variety: cabernet sauvignon | saperavi | rara neagra
country: Moldova
region: Stefan Voda
rating: 94.0

At the 1878 Paris World Exhibition, Negru de Purcari was awarded a gold medal in a blind tasting, famously surpassing even the finest wines from Bordeaux. This event not only placed Moldovan wine on the world map but also made Negru de Purcari a favorite amongst european royalty, including Queen Victoria of Great Britain, solidifying its status as a premium wine.

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