KOVÁCS NIMRÓD WINERY | 777 | Egri Pinot Noir | 2023
pinot noir

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The Kovács Nimród Winery, is the soul project of Nimród Kovács, who, after a successful career in the US, returned to his homeland with a clear vision: to craft world-class wines that truly express the unique terroir of Eger wine region. The winery operates on a combination of heritage and ambition, they honor the knowledge passed down by the French monks who once cultivated grapes in the region, while, at the same time, embracing modern winemaking technology.
Today we are going to review a quite intriguing, single-varietal pinot noir wine from Eger region, situated in the north of Hungary – 777 Egri Pinot Noir 2023 by Kovács Nimród Winery. Pinot Noir is considered the world’s most noble red grape variety and has reached a legendary status mainly due to its ability to produce wines of unparalleled elegance. The grape itself is very difficult to cultivate – it has thin skins, as a result it is prone to rot and various vineyard disease, and is genetically unstable, meaning that it mutates easily (many of Burgundy’s other grapes, such as Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc, originated from these mutations). But when handled with great care, Pinot Noir is capable to deliver the very best expressions of terrior like no other grape variety, making it the ultimate storyteller of a place. Burgundy remains the spiritual home of Pinot Noir, where some of the most expensive and sought-after wines in the world are produced. Outside of France, Pinot Noir has adapted well in cooler climates such as Oregon’s Willamette Valley, New Zealand’s Central Otago, and some parts of California, like Sonoma and Santa Barbara.

Today’s wine is crafted from 100% hand-harvest Pinot Noir grapes (more specifically, from the esteemed ‘777 Dijon Clone‘), that were sourced from the Nagyfai and Nyilasmár vineyards in Noszvaj area of the Eger region. After the grape juice fermented, the wine was aged for 12 months in 50% French and 50% Hungarian oak barrels (80% 225 liter and 20% 500 liter), 20% of which was new oak, with additional bottle ageing time before it was deemed ready for the market release.

Nestled in the foothills of the Bükk Mountains in northern Hungary, the Eger wine region is famed for its cool continental climate, shaped by the nearby highlands that moderate summer heat and extend the ripening season late into the autumn. This slow but steady ripening allows for the development of complex aromatics in the grapes and preserve the natural acidity, giving Eger wines their trademark freshness and elegance. The soils are extraordinarily diverse, ranging from volcanic rhyolite tuff to clay and loam, offering excellent drainage and a mineral richness that translate into the wines’ subtle depth and tension. While Eger suits both white and red wines, it is best known for its legendary Egri Bikavér (Bull’s Blood) wines – a traditional red blend dominated by Kékfrankos (Blaufränkisch) and complemented by varieties like Kadarka, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot, yielding layered, spicy, and savory wines with firm and robust structure. The whites, made mainly from Leányka, Hárslevelű, and Olaszrizling, showcase precision, minerality, and refreshing acidity. Combining historic tradition with modern finesse, Eger produces wines that balance mountain freshness with remarkable depth and authenticity.

color: medium-pale ruby color
clarity: very hazy ruby shades at the rim

In the glass, this wine displays a medium-pale ruby color, indicative of its youth and the Pinot Noir’s lighter pigmentation. The clarity reveals very hazy ruby shades at the rim, hinting at minimal filtration or the presence of fine lees that speaks to a non-interventional winemaking approach.

intensity: rich & fruity-herbaceous
fruit character: ripe & dehydrated

The nose is rich and inviting, presenting a fruity-herbaceous accent, underscored by an earthy minerality. The foreground is dominated by ripe and subtly dehydrated red fruits, featuring red cherry, red plum, and cranberry. These are beautifully intertwined with distinctly-herbaceous aromas of thyme, rosemary, and a whisper of wormwood, adding extra aromatic complexity. As the wine breathes, subtle hints of brown soil and marl emerge, connecting the wine directly to its volcanic terroir. In the background, nuances of spice emerge with notes of red pepper, nutmeg, a touch of paprika, and hints of anise. These are elegantly framed by subtle oak influences, including sun-dried oak and fresh oakwood.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: medium+ | balance: good
finish: medium+ | aftertaste: bitter-crisp

On the palate, this is a heady and assertive Pinot Noir wine, characterized by a distinctly fruity-herbaceous accent. The mouthfeel feels angular and robust, with an austere, astringent, and almost aggressive character, with a perceived rough texture and quite sharp edges that denote a wine still very much in its developing stages. The wine is unequivocally dry, driven by exuberant acidity that provides a crisp backbone. The wine also delivers an overwhelming touch of alcoholic warmth that slightly overshadows its more delicate nuances. The tannins are present and lean towards the green side, contributing to the wine’s firm, grippy texture and slightly bitter finish. The overall balance is still in flux, with the acidity and alcohol vying for dominance. The finish is crisp and bitter-heady, leaving a somehow unripe impression.

maturity: developing | needs more time | age for at least 2 to 3 years
verdict: fine | an excellent wine | a wine of good quality with nice potential

Overall, this wine showcases some varietal typicity of the Pinot Noir grapes, particularly through its red fruit and herbaceous profile, and offers subtle hints of its terroir. However, in its current state, it clearly lacks the finesse, harmony, and elegance that is often characteristic of world-class Burgundian Pinot Noirs. The wine feels restraint in its use of oak, which is almost untraceable, allowing the fruit and structural elements to take center stage, albeit perhaps a little too forcefully in its current state. This is a wine still very much on the rise, displaying a certain rustic charm and youthful vigor, but it is not yet ready for immediate gratification. It requires a further 2 to 3 years of bottle aging to allow its angular edges to soften, its components to integrate, and its overall complexity to unfold.

Given the wine’s green character and pronounced alcoholic warmth, a fitting pairing partner is crucial to tame its assertive character. We recommend pairing this Pinot Noir with sweet sauce reduction dishes, which will beautifully balance the wine’s bitterness and temper its angularity. Consider a pan-seared veal medallion or roasted duck breast with a cherry or berry reduction. The richness of the meat will stand up to the wine’s robustness, while the sweetness and fruitiness of the sauce will complement the wine’s fruit profile and mitigate the austere tannic grip, creating a ‘wow-effect’ by transforming the wine’s intensity into a delightful gastronomic experience. Cheers!
KOVÁCS NIMRÓD WINERY | 777 | Egri Pinot Noir | 2023
variety: pinot noir
country: Hungary
region: Eger
rating: 92.2

The ‘777’ Dijon Clone is one of the most highly regarded Pinot Noir clones, developed at the University of Burgundy’s (INRA) research station in Dijon, France. These clones became famous as ‘Dijon Clones’ for their superior quality, small berry size, and intense color and flavor concentration. The quest for the perfect clone for a specific vineyard became known in the wine world as the ‘Clone Wars,’ where winemakers meticulously selecting clones to achieve desired vineyard performance and wine characteristics. Clone 777, in particular, is prized for producing wines with good structure, deep color, and rich fruit expression.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!