ESTATE ARGYROS | Atlantis White | 2022
assyrtiko | athiri | aidani

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As one of the island’s most venerable wineries, Estate Argyros dates back to 1903 – a testament to four generations of unwavering dedication to winemaking. Their estate’s philosophy is simple: exceptional wines begin with exceptional grapes. This conviction drives the winery’s reliance on old vines, with the average vine age exceeding 70 years, while some parcels have vines over two centuries old. The old vines provide the depth and concentration which is essential for creating wines that not only are capable to capture the unique essence of the volcanic soils of Santorini, but also possess that rare ability to stand the test of time.
Today we are going to review a very interesting wine from Cyclades PGI, which is sub-region of Santorini – one of Greece‘s most famous wine regions – Atlantis White 2022 by Estate Argyros. Assyrtiko is an indigenous grape variety of Greece, valued for its remarkable ability to express terroir and retain vibrant acidity even under the scorching Mediterranean sun. Originating from the volcanic soils of Santorini, Assyrtiko produces white wines of striking minerality and depth, often compared to Riesling due to its structure and complexity. Traditionally trained in the unique kouloura basket shape to protect the vines from fierce winds and heat, Assyrtiko has lately spread across mainland Greece – from Macedonia to the Peloponnese, as well as other Aegean Islands.

Today’s wine is a harmonious blend of three grape varieties: assyrtiko (90%), athiri (5%) and aidani (5%), where assyrtiko forms the wine’s main body and structure, athiri adds up-front richness and builds a more refined mid-palate, whereas aidani enhances the aromatic profile with citrusy notes, volcanic minerality and hints of flowers. The grapes for this wine were sourced from ungrafted vines (10 to 60 years old) from selected parcels of the Episkopi, Messaria, Karterados, Pyrgos, Megalochori and Akrotiri vineyards. The final wine is aged for 5 months in stainless steel vats only in order to preserve it’s pure varietal characteristics.

Rising from the remnants of an ancient volcano, the Santorini island stands as one of the world’s most distinctive winegrowing regions – a windswept, sun-drenched island where vines root in pure volcanic ash, pumice, and basalt. These mineral-rich and porous soils are almost devoid of clay and organic matter, providing natural immunity to phylloxera and forcing the vines to struggle for survival, yielding grapes of remarkable concentration and salinity. Santorini boasts a dry mediterranean climate with low rainfall and intense summer heat, which is tempered by cool sea breezes and the powerful Meltemi winds from the Aegean Sea, which moderates temperatures, prolongs ripening, and keeps vines free from disease.

To withstand the fierce winds and scorching sun, local growers employ the ancient ‘kouloura‘ training system – vine canes woven into protective basket-like wreaths that cradle the grapes near the ground. This training method shelters the grapes from the winds, salt spray, and direct sunlight, while also helping them capture precious moisture during the humid nights. Santorini’s vineyard produce exceptionally low yields, often below 20 hl/ha, resulting in wines of profound intensity and complexity. Assyrtiko is the island’s champion grape that expresses the terroir through it’s piercing acidity, vibrant citrus, smoky minerality, and a saline finish that mirrors the surrounding sea. Smaller plantings of Aidani and Athiri lend aromatic lift, elegance and finesse. The wines of Santorini embody the island’s dramatic landscape with their mineral-volcanic character, where every sip speaks of fire, sea, and stone – the Ancient Greece itself.

color: pale pastel-yellow color
clarity: delicate pastel-green hues

In the glass, the wine presents a pale, pastel-yellow color, adorned with delicate pastel-green shades towards the rim.

intensity: pronounced & herbal
fruit character: ripe

The nose is a rich tapestry of aromas, revealing a distinctly herbal profile intertwined with a ripe fruit character. In the foreground, an invigorating bouquet of fresh herbs emerges, with notes of lemongrass, hay, and a meadow-like freshness, complemented by nuances of nettle, currant leaf, eucalyptus, and a subtle hint of juniper. A delicate whisper of acacia flower adds a touch of floral elegance, enhancing the aromatic harmony. As the aromatic layers unfold, the background introduces a delightful array of green fruits, including green apple, gooseberry, and kiwi, all brightened by zesty citrusy hints of lime and lemon.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: medium+ | balance: good
finish: medium+ | aftertaste: seedy-crisp

On the palate, this is a crisp and unequivocally mineral wine, delivering a nuanced herbal accent. It offers a slightly seedy mouthfeel, contributing to its firm and expressive character. The structure is well-defined, showcasing a pronounced phenolic bitterness that adds intrigue and complexity rather than harshness, forming a very well-structured palate. The wine feels dry, supported by exuberant acidity that provides a lively and refreshing backbone, perfectly balanced by a well-integrated alcoholic warmth that adds body without overpowering. The palate culminates in a persistent, seedy-crisp aftertaste that leaves a lasting impression of its unique volcanic essence and dusty character.

maturity: in its prime | drink now or within a year
verdict: fine | highly recommended | a wine of premium quality

Overall, this is a slightly angular wine that, far from being a flaw, asserts its robust character and impeccable structure with compelling authenticity. It feels fresh and zesty, with invigorating energy, and features a delicate, yet persistent, touch of minerality that anchors its genuine Santorini heritage. This is a wine that, while still developing and showing some promise for evolution, is ready to be enjoyed today. Its vibrant acidity, structured complexity, and inherent balance suggest it will continue to unfold gracefully over the next year.

We recommend pairing this wine with dishes that can stand up to its high acidity and nuanced minerality. Think of a grilled octopus salad, tossed with fresh dill and parsley, a generous squeeze of lemon, capers, and a drizzle of the finest greek olive oil. The wine’s crisp acidity will cut through the richness of the octopus, while the wine’s herbal undertones will resonate with the fresh herbs in the salad. For a creative twist, consider a lemon-herb baked cod with a side of fava (santorinian split pea puree), allowing the wine’s minerality to harmonize with the subtle oceanic flavors and the creamy texture of the fava. Cheers!

ESTATE ARGYROS | Atlantis White | 2022
variety: assyrtiko | athiri | aidani
country: Greece
region: Santorini | Cyclades
rating: 93.5

Estate Argyros is the largest private owner of vineyards on Santorini, boasting over 120 hectares overall. The island of Santorini sits on an active volcano – a geological marvel that gifts its soils unique properties, making it phylloxera-immune, a rarity in the wine world. This allows all vines to be ungrafted, growing on their original rootstock. The traditional vine training systems, ‘kouloura’ (basket-shaped), along with ‘koulouri’ and ‘klada’, are a fascinating sight, protecting the precious grapes from the island’s strong winds and intense sun. These systems also conserve moisture, which is a vital adaptation to the arid landscape.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!