GAIA | Thalassitis | Santorini | 2022
assyrtiko

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Founded in 1994 by agriculturist Leon Karatsalos and oenologist Yiannis Paraskevopoulos, GAIA Wines has become a standard-bearer for modern greek winemaking, with a focus on showcasing the full potential of indigenous grape varieties. Situated directly on a beach on the island’s east coast, the Gaia Estate blends historical architecture with high-tech winemaking facilities.
Today we are going to review a wine that is a pure and unadulterated reflection of its iconic terroir – a single-varietal assyrtiko wine from Santorini – Thalassitis Santorini 2022 by Gaia Wines. Assyrtiko is an indigenous grape variety of Greece, valued for its remarkable ability to express terroir and retain vibrant acidity even under the scorching Mediterranean sun. Originating from the volcanic soils of Santorini, Assyrtiko produces white wines of striking minerality and depth, often compared to Riesling due to its structure and complexity. Traditionally trained in the unique kouloura basket shape to protect the vines from fierce winds and heat, Assyrtiko has lately spread across mainland Greece – from Macedonia to the Peloponnese, as well as other Aegean Islands. Today’s wine was crafted from grapes that were sourced from ancient, self-rooted vineyards of Episkopi, Akrotiri, and Pyrgos – three of the Santorini‘s premier terroirs that are nearly 80 years old. The wine is vinified and aged entirely in stainless steel vats in order to preserve the Assyrtiko‘s pure varietal character and the delicate, saline minerality imparted by the Santorin‘s volcanic terroir, without any influence from oak.

Rising from the remnants of an ancient volcano, the Santorini island stands as one of the world’s most distinctive winegrowing regions – a windswept, sun-drenched island where vines root in pure volcanic ash, pumice, and basalt. These mineral-rich and porous soils are almost devoid of clay and organic matter, providing natural immunity to phylloxera and forcing the vines to struggle for survival, yielding grapes of remarkable concentration and salinity. Santorini boasts a dry mediterranean climate with low rainfall and intense summer heat, which is tempered by cool sea breezes and the powerful Meltemi winds from the Aegean Sea, which moderates temperatures, prolongs ripening, and keeps vines free from disease.

To withstand the fierce winds and scorching sun, local growers employ the ancient ‘kouloura‘ training system – vine canes woven into protective basket-like wreaths that cradle the grapes near the ground. This training method shelters the grapes from the winds, salt spray, and direct sunlight, while also helping them capture precious moisture during the humid nights. Santorini’s vineyard produce exceptionally low yields, often below 20 hl/ha, resulting in wines of profound intensity and complexity. Assyrtiko is the island’s champion grape that expresses the terroir through it’s piercing acidity, vibrant citrus, smoky minerality, and a saline finish that mirrors the surrounding sea. Smaller plantings of Aidani and Athiri lend aromatic lift, elegance and finesse. The wines of Santorini embody the island’s dramatic landscape with their mineral-volcanic character, where every sip speaks of fire, sea, and stone – the Ancient Greece itself.

color: deep pastel-yellow color
clarity: bright topaz-yellow hues

In the glass, the wine displays a deep and alluring yellow color, with bright, topaz-yellow shades along the rim, hinting at its concentration and intensity.

intensity: rich & vibrant
fruit character: ripe

The olfactory profile is rich and vibrant, showcasing a complex interplay of ripe fruit notes and honey tones. The foreground is a captivating medley of orchard fruits, including nectarine, peach, yellow apple, and asian pear, which soon evolves into sweeter notes of apricot, yellow mirabelle, and quince jam. This fruit-forward character is elegantly layered with honey-sweet nuances of honeycomb and beeswax. In the background, a refreshing counterpoint of citrus, led by lemon and pomelo, emerges, alongside subtle floral and tropical hints of pineapple, acacia, and lindenflower, with a final touch of cantaloupe adding to the wine’s alluring aromatic complexity.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: medium+ | balance: good
finish: long | aftertaste: ample & crisp

On the palate, this wine is a masterclass in structure and tension – a textbook Assyrtiko that perfectly marries power with finesse. The entry is bone-dry, immediately followed by a wave of mouth-watering, crisp acidity that invigorates the senses. The alcoholic warmth is seamlessly integrated, providing body and texture without overwhelming the palate. A nuanced mineral touch runs through its core, while an appealing hint of phenolic bitterness emerges on the mid-palate, providing depth and character. The mouthfeel is ample and well-structured, leading to a long, crisp, and persistent aftertaste.

maturity: developing | drink now or in the next 3 to 4 years
verdict: great | benchmark wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

All in all, this is a remarkable Assyrtiko wine that brilliantly expresses the untamed spirit Santorini’s volcanic terroir. It feels fresh, expressive, and zesty, with a delicate sulphuric touch that speaks directly of its origin. The wine is impeccably structured, lacking neither character nor complexity. While it is certainly ready to be enjoyed in its vibrant youth, it is also a wine that can age elegantly for another 3 to 4 years, which will allow its intense mineral edge to soften and its luscious fruity and honeyed notes to gain even more aromatic sophistication and structural complexity.

The wine’s pronounced acidity and saline minerality make it a perfect partner for maritime cuisine. While classic pairings like grilled sea bass or fresh oysters are a natural fit, we would suggest a more fitting match – a lemon-infused lamb stew (lamb fricassee), so that the wine’s sharp acidity will cut through the richness of the lamb, while its citrusy-mineral notes will complement the lemon and herbs in the dish, creating a harmonious and authentic greek gastronomic experience. Enjoy!

GAIA | Thalassitis | Santorini | 2022
variety: assyrtiko
country: Greece
region: Santorini
rating: 94.4

Gaia winery has its headquarters in an old and restored tomato processing factory, located right on the coast between Kamari and Monolithos. This unique setting pays homage to the island’s agricultural history. Due to Santorini’s volcanic ash soil, the island was never affected by the phylloxera epidemic that devastated most of the world’s vineyards in the 19th century. This means that all the vines in Santorini are ungrafted, growing on their original rootstock – a rare treasure in the world of wine.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!