BIBI GRAETZ | Testamatta | Toscana | 2020
sangiovese

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Bibi Graetz, a graduate of Florence’s Accademia dell’Arte, is a self-taught winemaker who approached the world of wine not with a formal education, but with an artist’s intuition and an unyielding creative drive. In 2000, he began his journey on the grounds of his family’s home, the medieval Castello di Vincigliata near Florence, deciding to harness the potential of the old vines surrounding the property. His wines are meant to capture his vibrant personality and his passionate, often unconventional, approach to winemaking.
Today we are going to review an iconic Super Tuscan wine from Italy‘s most celebrated wine region, the mighty Tuscany – Testamatta Toscana 2020 by Bibi Graetz. Until relatively recently, sangiovese was considered to be a grape in the wilderness – rustic, delicate and savory, and whenever the name sangiovese would appear on a label, it was far from a guarantee of quality. But sangiovese is and has always been the dominant red grape of Italy. Today, sangiovese is a true chameleon – effortlessly adapting to each particular terroir where it is planted. In that sense, it can vary as much as pinot noir in its sensitivity to the place it is grown in, and like pinot noir, it ripens relatively late. This means that if it is planted in a cooler climate, sangiovese can produce wines that are dangerously tart and even green, but when ideal growing conditions are met (mainly high diurnal range and a prolonged growing season), the sangiovese grape variety is capable to produce wines that would lead you into the realm of perfection. With numerous mutations spread all over Italy, this versatile grape variety can create wines with strikingly diverse flavor profiles: from the delicate and floral Montefalco Rosso wines, to the bold and tannic wines of Brunello di Montalcino. The one thing that the sangiovese grape variety cannot hide is its flavour profile, but now that the right clones have been identified and are increasingly popular, the sangiovese grape variety is allowed to shine in all its glory, and it is beautiful.

This wine is crafted with 100% sangiovese grapes, sourced from 35 to 50 years old vines, which are native to the Toscana region, yielding wines of remarkable structure, aromatic intensity, and incredible aging potential. The winemaking process emphasizes minimal intervention, with fermentation on ambient yeast in open-top 225L barriques and aged for a period of 20 months in small French oak barrels (from which only 10% new oak and 75% barrels at second, third and fourth use), with additional 6 months of bottle ageing time before it was deemed ready for the market release. Testamatta expresses the purity, minerality, and transparency of the sangiovese grape variety from the Vincigliata, Olmo, Londa, Lamole, Montefili and Siena vineyards, planted on clay and rocky soils of medium mixture, that are rich in galestro. These prized vineyards are perched on the high hills of Tuscany, creating a wine that embodies both power and finesse.

The Toscana region has long boasted an impressive reputation in the world of great wines, earning its prestige as one of the most promising and creative production areas in the world of wine as a result of a number of forward-thinking producers that experimented with international grape varieties modern winemaking techniques. It is home to some of the world’s most famous wines known as ‘Super Tuscan‘.

Super Tuscan wins emerged in the late 1960s, when a handful of pioneering winemakers in the region rebelled against the restrictive rules of traditional italian appellations. By blending Sangiovese with international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Syrah, and by adopting modern barrel aging techniques, they created bold, innovative wines that quickly gained global acclaim. These ‘rule-breaking’ wines became known as Super Tuscans.

color: medium-pale garnet color
clarity: hazy copper shades at the rim

In the glass, the wine presents a classic Sangiovese appearance, with a captivating medium-deep to pale garnet color. At the rim of the glass, the wine reveals hazy copper shades.

intensity: rich & herbal
fruit character: dehydrated

The aromatic profile is rich and complex, with a distinctively herbal and savory character over a dehydrated fruit core. The foreground is a captivating blend of mediterranean herbs, including bay leaf, basil, thyme, and oregano, intricately woven with a spicy hint of paprika flakes. Just beneath this initial wave lie subtle undertones of dried red fruits. As the wine opens up, the background reveals a fruit core of cherry, cranberry, and red plum, supported by sophisticated secondary notes of sun-dried oakwood and tobacco leaf. A delicate earthy foundation of marl and loam provides further depth, completing a multi-layered and sophisticated bouquet.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: medium+ | tannin: high | balance: good
finish: medium+ | aftertaste: crisp & seedy

The palate confirms the promise of the nose, delivering a textbook Sangiovese wine profile that balances power with finesse. The mouthfeel is ample and structured, with a pronounced herbal character that speaks directly of its Tuscan origins. This is a nuanced wine an incredible varietal typicity. It feels bone-dry, invigorated by a bright, mouth-watering acidity that provides energy and lift. A well-integrated touch of alcoholic warmth adds body and presence without overwhelming the intricate flavors. The tannins are grippy and pleasantly seedy – they contribute to a firm and textured mouthfeel that promises longevity. The finish is long and persistent, concluding with a crisp and seedy aftertaste that cleanses the palate.

maturity: developing | drink now or in the next 3 to 5 years
verdict: great | a benchmark wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

All in all, this is a remarkably crisp and voluptuous Sangiovese wine that epitomizes the old-world style, showcasing the rustic soul of the grape variety and the unmistakable footprint of its high-altitude Tuscan terroir. The use of oak is incredibly restrained and masterfully integrated, allowing the purity of the fruit and the wine’s inherent earthiness to shine through. This is a wine of excellence that is still developing, offering immense pleasure already today, but holding the clear potential to gain further complexity and aromatic sophistication over the next 3 to 5 years. It manages to deliver both elegance and nuance – a testament to the unmatched expression of a Tuscan-breed Sangiovese crafted by a true artist.

Given the wine’s vibrant acidity and herbal profile, it calls for a classic congruent pairing, like for example a Bistecca alla Fiorentina. The wine’s high acidity and grippy tannins will slice through the rich, marbled texture of the steak, while its herbal and earthy notes will beautifully complement the char and savory seasoning of the meat. For a more elegant pairing, consider Vitello Tonnato, where the wine’s acidity would cut the creaminess of the tuna sauce, and its savory profile would harmonize with the delicate veal, creating a sophisticated and quintessentially mediteranian dining experience. Enjoy!
BIBI GRAETZ | Testamatta | Toscana | 2020
variety: sangiovese
country: Italy
region: Toscana
rating: 95.1

The name ‘Testamatta’ (meaning ‘crazy-head’) is a reflection of the Bibi Graetz himself – an artist by training, that relies on instinct and creativity rather than cold theory. His winery is located in the hills of Fiesole, in a medieval castle, the Castello di Vincigliata, which has been in his family since the 1960s. This fusion of ancient history, artistic spirit, and unique terroir is what makes Bibi Graetz one of the most exciting and wine producers in all of Tuscany.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!