BODEGA GARZÓN | Tannat | Reserva | 2022
tannat

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Bodega Garzón is the ambitious vision of Argentine businessman Alejandro Bulgheroni, who, along with his wife Bettina, sought to create a wine estate that would redefine Uruguay’s viticultural landscape. Guided by the expertise of international oenologist Alberto Antonini, they established their winery in the Maldonado region of Uruguay, a location previously overlooked for premium wine production. Their wine project focuses on innovation and sustainability, with a state-of-the-art winery, designed for minimal environmental impact and maximum respect for the terroir. Their philosophy is centered around expressing the unique character of Garzón sub-region through wines that would reflect each varietal’s distinct personality.
Today we are going to review a single-varietal tannat wine wine from Garzón sub-region – a rising star within Uruguay’s esteemed Maldonado wine region – Tannat Reserva 2022 by Bodega Garzón. Tannat is one of the most tannic grape varieties in the world, originally hailing from south-west of France, where it forms the backbone of the formidable Madiran wines. Known for its extraordinarily thick skins, high seed count, and naturally astringent, muscular tannins, tannat yields deeply colored and intensely concentrated wines that traditionally required long aging to soften their formidable grip. Thanks to modern techniques such as oak ageing, micro-oxygenation, and careful extraction, winemakers have learned to tame this grape variety, revealing layers of ripe black fruits and spice beneath its stern exterior.

Tannat’s story takes an unexpected turn in the 19th century in Uruguay, where basque immigrants imported the grape under the name harriague, becoming the country’s national grape. In the warmer, sunnier climate of Uruguay, and through deliberate clonal selection, tannat can expresses its other personality, with softer tannins, rich black fruit, and a more approachable, elegant structure. Celebrated for its exceptionally high levels of antioxidants, which has many health benefits, and remarkable resilience in the vineyard, tannat thrives in dry climates and is naturally resistant to fungal diseases and frosts. Also, the polyphenol amount is so high in tannat grapes, that the resulting wines are very opaque, nearly black in color. The deep color of tannat comes from a chemical interaction called copigmentation, where anthocyanin (the red color in wine) is enhanced by other types of tannins, which would otherwise be invisible.

While traditionally known for its formidable tannins and rustic character, uruguayan tannat, particularly from coastal sub-regions like Garzón, often presents a more polished and fruit-forward profile. Today’s wine is one such example – fermented in large 150 HL concrete tanks, which promotes a gentle extraction of flavors and tannins. The wine is then aged for 6 months in stainless steel tanks, followed by 12 months in untoasted french oak casks called ‘bottis’, with additional bottle ageing time before it was deemed ready for the market release.. This approach is designed to enhance the wine’s texture and complexity without imparting overt oak flavors, allowing the rich fruit and subtle terroir notes to take center stage.

The Uruguay’s most important wine regions lie along the Atlantic-influenced southeastern part of the country, where a temperate maritime climate brings moderate temperatures, steady humidity, and frequent ocean breezes. The soils vary from clay-loam to granite-based formations, offering good drainage and balanced water retention. Tannat is the country’s signature grape variety, producing highly structured, dark-fruited wines with high natural acidity.

Maldonado is one of Uruguay’s Oceanic wine regions, moderated by strong Atlantic winds and a cool maritime climate that promotes slow ripening and high natural acidity. The area’s granite and schist-derived soils are shallow and well drained, limiting vine vigor and producing concentrated fruit. Wines from Maldonado tend to be vibrant, mineral-driven, and precise. Within Maldonado, lies the Garzón sub-region, that is defined by rolling hills of ancient granite, extremely rocky soils, and strong, salty breezes from the nearby Atlantic Ocean. This combination creates low-yielding vineyards and intensely flavored grapes. The region is especially known for aromatic Albariño and elegant Tannat.

color: very deep & opaque ruby color
clarity: hazy garnet shades at the rim

In the glass, the wine presents a very deep and opaque ruby color, a depth that is a classic hallmark of the Tannat grape variety. This intense core is framed by hazy garnet shades at the rim, promising a wine of great concentration and character.

intensity: rich & fruity-explosive
fruit character: overripe & dehydrated

The aromatic profile is rich and incredibly expressive, with a fruit character that leans towards overripe and dehydrated fruits. The foreground is a dense tapestry of rich black fruits, including blackberry, dark cherry, black plum, and blackcurrant. This is lavishly layered with sweet, concentrated notes of dried figs, raisins, blackberry jam, and dates, with a pronounced undertone of kirsch cherry liqueur adding a spirited lift. In the background, a more subtle complexity emerges through earthy hints of soil dust and pencil lead, intertwined with sweet spices like nutmeg, star anise, and cinnamon. The finish reveals appealingly sweet nuances of toasted oakwood and a touch of sweet tobacco, creating a multi-layered and inviting bouquet.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: good
finish: medium+ | aftertaste: crisp & nuanced

On the palate, this wine delivers a very rich and expressive version of Tannat, vinified in a style that reminds us of the italian appassimento method, showcasing overripe and dehydrated fruit characteristics. It feels dry, yet the fruit perception is intensely sweet, dominated by pronounced notes of kirsch cherry liqueur and a jammy, succulent touch. The wine is propelled by its exuberant acidity that provides a surprising vibrancy and freshness, brilliantly balancing the richness of the fruit. A well-integrated touch of alcoholic warmth adds depth, while the ripe, well-structured tannins provide a firm grip without being aggressive. The mouthfeel is notably round and ample, with a well-structured palate that has a compelling bitter-sweet character, culminating in a long, crisp, and nuanced aftertaste.

maturity: developing | drink now or in the next 2 to 3 years
verdict: great | a benchmark wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

Overall, this is an ample, rich, and voluptuous Tannat wine with an extracted and well-structured body. It showcases immense power and a multi-layered aromatic profile, though it trades some classic terroir delicacy and varietal typicity for a more expressive, round, and fruit-forward style. The restraint in its use of oak is commendable, allowing the sheer concentration of the fruit to shine. This is a wine that is still developing, ready to be enjoyed today, but possesses the backbone to evolve beautifully over the next 2 to 3 years, where it may gain further aromatic sophistication and harmony.

Given its rich fruit, ripe tannins, and vibrant acidity, this wine calls for a robust and flavorful pairing. A classic choice would be grilled game meats, like venison loin with a blackberry reduction sauce, where the richness of the meat would be beautifully matched by the wine’s structure, while the blackberry sauce would create a congruent link with the wine’s jammy fruit, thus creating a balanced tasting experience. Cheers!
BODEGA GARZÓN | Tannat | Reserva | 2022
variety: tannat
country: Uruguay
region: Maldonado | Garzón
rating: 94.3

Bodega Garzón is a pioneering project in a region once thought unsuitable for fine wine production. Its state-of-the-art winery is the first in the world to seek LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) certification for its entire facility, from the vineyards to the production plant and hospitality areas. This highlights a profound commitment to sustainability and sets a new standard for green winemaking globally. The estate is meticulously divided into more than 1,000 individual parcels, each managed according to its unique microclimate and soil composition, a practice known as precision viticulture.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!