ARTISAN WINERY | Gravor | Cabernet Franc | 2022
cabernet franc

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Artisan Winery is a family-run boutique winery situated in the historic Miniș region between the Zărand Mountains and the Mureș River. Inspired by the meticulous work of traditional master craftsmen, the winery operates on a philosophy of passion, tradition, and uncompromising attention to detail. Each wine is a genuine story of its origin. Their flagship ‘Gravor’ label perfectly encapsulates this vision – a reflection of the unique Miniș terroir, capturing the authenticity of the land and the dedication for qualitative winemaking.
Today we are going to review a single-varietal cabernet franc wine from the Miniș appellation, located in the west of Romania within the Crișana wine region – Gravor Cabernet Franc 2022 by Artisan Winery. The ‘other cabernet’ grape, cabernet franc is the parent grape for the two famous varieties: cabernet sauvignon and merlot. It is less intense and softer than cabernet sauvignon and it ripens much earlier, while it is also much more resistant to winter cold and frost than merlot. One thing that makes cabernet franc unique is that it can’t hide its nature – it has always been a bit more peppery, more savory and leaner than its pedigree children, due to the higher levels of pyrazines (which is an aromatic organic compound) inherited by the variety’s DNA. In order to preserve the varietal characteristics of the grape variety, the wine has been aged for 13 months in a mix of large (1000L) casks and second-use small (225L) barriques, with additional 6 months of bottle ageing before it was deemed ready for the market release.

The Crișana wine region, located in northwestern Romania along the border with Hungary, boasts a rich viticultural heritage influenced by its geographical position. The soil composition in Crisana is diverse, encompassing volcanic rocks rich in iron, sandstone mixed with marl, and fertile brown soils, each contributing to the complexity of the wines produced here, enabling versatile grape varieties like merlot or chardonnay to develop a broad spectrum of flavors. The temperate-continental climate, with extended summers and mild winters offer almost ideal conditions for grape growing, ensuring grapes achieve full ripeness while maintaining freshness. Vineyards are typically situated at elevations between 125 and 234 m.a.s.l., benefiting from the moderating effects of nearby rivers. The significant diurnal temperature variations between day and night preserves the natural acidity of the grapes, resulting in fresh and vibrant wines with good aging potential.

The Miniș wine region, located in the south-western part of Crișana near Arad, is one of Romania’s oldest documented wine areas, known for its sun-drenched foothills of the Zărand Mountains and well-drained, iron-rich soils. The temperate-continental climate provides long, dry summers and high diurnal range shifts, creating a microclimate that allows from a prolonged growing season that support full ripening while preserving natural acidity in the grapes. The region’s main grape varieties are Kadarka, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, along with Fetească Regală and Chardonnay.

color: medium-deep ruby color
clarity: hazy garnet shades at the rim

In the glass, the wine displays a medium-deep ruby color at its core, vibrant and inviting. Towards the rim, it transitions into subtle, hazy garnet shades, hinting at its developing complexity and youthful elegance.

intensity: rich & savory
fruit character: underripe & ripe

The olfactory profile has a rich and savory character, with a multi-layered aromatic bouquet, starting with a foreground of ripe red and black fruits: cranberry, redcurrant, and sour cherry dance with darker notes of black cherry, blackcurrant, and blackberry. This fruit core is complemented by nuanced savory aromas of old leather, brown olive, and a subtle hint of game, all resting on a delicate bed of forest floor. In the background, a complex earthy layer emerges, reminiscent of loam, marl, and damp clay, followed by subtle oak-derived nuances of sun-dried wood and tobacco. The wine’s aromatic profile is rounded by undertones of red pepper and a whisper of paprika flakes, adding a final touch of rustic sophistication.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: medium+ | balance: good
finish: medium+ | aftertaste: seedy & crisp

The palate confirms the old-world style suggested by the nose. The wine presents itself as a remarkably textured, yet slightly angular, showcasing a structure that is both crisp and astringent. Its exuberant acidity brings a vibrant energy that slices through the wine’s rustic framework. An overwhelming touch of alcoholic warmth is balanced by seedy tannins that contribute to the wine’s firm and slightly angular body. The wine’s character is defined by a savory-earthy core, where the fruit takes a backseat to the terroir-driven mineral and savory notes. A touch of slightly green phenolic bitterness adds to its complexity – a hallmark of a still youthful wine – which leads to a seedy-crisp aftertaste that lingers, inviting another sip.

maturity: developing | drink now or within the next 2 to 3 years
verdict: great | a benchmark wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

Overall, this is an authentic Cabernet Franc wine that speaks of grape variety and its origin – a savory and delicate wine with an impressive multi-layered aromatic profile and a firm, yet rustic structure. In its current state the wine feels a bit unpolished and slightly angular, with an astringent mouthfeel and a touch of phenolic bitterness on the palate. This is definitely a wine that is still in its development phase. It can be enjoyed today for its raw energy and character, but it will undoubtedly benefit from another 2 to 3 years of bottle ageing to round out its sharp edges and gain further aromatic sophistication. All in all, this is a honest Cabernet Franc wine that lacks neither varietal typicity nor personality.

The wine’s high acidity and pronounced savory profile call for dishes with richness and earthy flavors. A classic pairing would be grilled lamb chops seasoned with rosemary and garlic, where the wine’s seedy touches would complement the herbs, while its acidity would cut through the fat of the lamb. The earthy notes of the dish will resonate beautifully with the wine’s terroir-driven character, while its astringent tannins will provide a perfect contrast to the creamy texture of the dish, creating a harmonious tasting experience. Cheers!
ARTISAN WINERY | Gravor | Cabernet Franc | 2022
variety: cabernet franc
country: Romania
region: Crisana | DOC Minis
rating: 94.0

Artisan Winery is a true family affair, born from a passion for reviving the winemaking traditions of the historic Miniș region. The name ‘Gravor’ (Engraver) was chosen for their flagship wines to symbolize the artful ‘engraving’ of their unique terroir. This commitment to authenticity is reflected in their limited production, making each wine a rare expression of their place of origin and passion for winemaking.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!