BODEGA GARZÓN | Single Vineyard | Tannat | 2022
tannat

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When Alejandro Bulgheroni and his wife Bettina discovered Garzón, they instantly knew that their family dream came true: to create the most emblematic winery in Uruguay. Guided by the expertise of famous oenologist Alberto Antonini, they established the winery in the Maldonado region of Uruguay – a location previously overlooked for premium wine production. Their wine project focuses on innovation and sustainability, with a state-of-the-art winery, designed for minimal environmental impact and maximum respect for the terroir. The estate’s winemaking philosophy is centered around expressing the unique character of Garzón sub-region through wines that would reflect each varietal’s distinct personality.
Today we are going to review a wine that is the very definition of its country’s viticultural identity – a single-varietal and single-vineyard tannat wine wine from the coastal hills of Garzón sub-region – a rising star within Uruguay‘s esteemed Maldonado wine region – Single Vineyard Tannat 2022 by Bodega Garzón. Tannat is one of the most tannic grape varieties in the world, originally hailing from south-west of France, where it forms the backbone of the formidable Madiran wines. Known for its extraordinarily thick skins, high seed count, and naturally astringent, muscular tannins, tannat yields deeply colored and intensely concentrated wines that traditionally required long aging to soften their formidable grip. Thanks to modern techniques such as oak ageing, micro-oxygenation, and careful extraction, winemakers have learned to tame this grape variety, revealing layers of ripe black fruits and spice beneath its stern exterior.

Tannat’s story takes an unexpected turn in the 19th century in Uruguay, when basque immigrants imported the grape under the name harriague, thus becoming the country’s national grape. In the warmer, sunnier climate of Uruguay, and through deliberate clonal selection, tannat can expresses its other personality, with softer tannins, rich black fruit, and a more approachable, elegant structure. Celebrated for its exceptionally high levels of antioxidants, which has many health benefits, and remarkable resilience in the vineyard, tannat thrives in dry climates and is naturally resistant to fungal diseases and frosts. Also, the polyphenol amount is so high in tannat grapes, that the resulting wines are very opaque, nearly black in color. The deep color of tannat comes from a chemical interaction called copigmentation, where anthocyanin (the red color in wine) is enhanced by other types of tannins, which would otherwise be invisible.

While traditionally known for its formidable tannins and rustic character, uruguayan tannat, particularly from coastal sub-regions like Garzón, often presents a more polished and fruit-forward profile. The tannat grapes for today’s wine were hand-picked from the estate’s coolest vineyard plots. In the cellar, minimal intervention was enforced, as the wine was fermented in large, 150 HL concrete tanks, which promotes a gentle extraction of flavors and tannins, and preserves the varietal characteristics of the tannat grapes. The wine is then aged for 12 months in 80 HL concrete vats, followed by another 18 months of ageing in untoasted french oak casks called ‘bottis’, with additional bottle ageing time before it was deemed ready for the market release. This approach is meant to enhance the wine’s complexity without imparting too much oak flavors, allowing the vibrancy of fruit and those subtle terroir notes to take center stage.

The Uruguay’s most important wine regions lie along the Atlantic-influenced southeastern part of the country, where a temperate maritime climate brings moderate temperatures, steady humidity, and frequent ocean breezes. The soils vary from clay-loam to granite-based formations, offering good drainage and balanced water retention. Tannat is the country’s signature grape variety, producing highly structured, dark-fruited wines with high natural acidity.

Maldonado is one of Uruguay’s Oceanic wine regions, moderated by strong Atlantic winds and a cool maritime climate that promotes slow ripening and high natural acidity. The area’s granite and schist-derived soils are shallow and well drained, limiting vine vigor and producing concentrated fruit. Wines from Maldonado tend to be vibrant, mineral-driven, and precise. Within Maldonado, lies the Garzón sub-region, that is defined by rolling hills of ancient granite, extremely rocky soils, and strong, salty breezes from the nearby Atlantic Ocean. The region’s geology is part of the Crystalline Basement – a formation containing some of the oldest rocks on the planet, dating back over 2.5 billion years. Over millennia, these rocks have weathered into a dense soil called ‘Ballast‘ – a mix of granite and other weathered rocks that provides exceptional drainage. This combination of oceanic influence and mineral-rich soils imparts a distinct personality to the wines produced here, characterized by vibrant freshness and minerality.

color: very deep & opaque ruby color
clarity: hazy purple shades at the rim

In the glass, the wine presents a very deep and opaque ruby color, with hazy purple shades at the rim – a textbook appearance of a youthful Tannat wine.

intensity: rich & savory-delicate
fruit character: ripe

The aromatic profile is rich, complex, and savory-delicate, showcasing a classic old-world character. The foreground is a captivating blend of a savory core, with notes of old leather, brown olive, iron, and game, intertwined with undertones of ripe red and black fruits, like cranberry, redcurrant, blackberry, black plum, and dark cherry. Elegant hints of forest floor and mushroom add another layer of sophistication in the background, complemented by subtle earthy tones of pencil lead, marl, loam, and clay, intertwined with a delicate spiciness of peppercorn and red pepper, and a mere touch of toasted oakwood.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: good
finish: long | aftertaste: crisp & delicate

On the palate, the wine reveals a remarkably round and ample character, with a multi-layered and complex flavour profile that elegantly balances primary fruit with rustic, terroir-driven earthy hints. The mouthfeel is both velvety and rustic, defined by vibrant acidity and pleasantly-seedy, fine-grained tannins that form a well-structured and intricate palate. This is a dry, voluptuous, and supple wine, with a well-integrated touch of alcoholic warmth. The experience culminates in a long, crispy-delicate aftertaste that lingers, showcasing the wine’s perfect harmony between power, elegance and structure.

maturity: developing | drink now or within the next 2 to 3 years
verdict: great | a benchmark wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

Overall, this is a genuine example of a modern Tannat vinified in an old-world style, that masterfully delivers the vibrancy of the grape variety alongside the unmistakable footprint of its origin. This wine is the epitome of a pure-bred, single-vineyard Tannat, that combines elegance with structure, and power with finesse. Elegant and complex, it resembles the great reds of Bordeaux, showcasing how nuance and delicacy can coexist with intensity. The wine is still developing, ready to be enjoyed today for its youthful energy, but it holds clear promise for further evolution, likely to gain more complexity over the next 2 to 3 years. A truly outstanding wine that serves as a benchmark for what uruguayan Tannat can achieve.

For a sublime pairing experience, match this powerful Tannat with hearty and flavorful dishes. The wine’s structure and acidity will cut beautifully through the richness of a classic duck cassoulet or slow-roast lamb with rosemary and garlic, while its savory and earthy notes would make it a complementary partner to grilled toulouse sausages or a wild mushroom risotto. Enjoy!
BODEGA GARZÓN | Single Vineyard | Tannat | 2022
variety: tannat
country: Uruguay
region: Maldonado | Garzón
rating: 95.3

Bodega Garzón is a pioneering dream project of energy magnate Alejandro Bulgheroni and his wife Bettina, in a region once thought unsuitable for fine wine production. They enlisted the world-renowned ‘flying winemaker’ Alberto Antonini to help realize their vision. Their state-of-the-art winery is the first in the world to seek LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) certification, from the vineyards to the production plant. This highlights a profound commitment to sustainability and sets a new standard for green winemaking. The estate is meticulously divided into more than 1,000 individual parcels, each managed according to its unique microclimate and soil composition, a practice known as precision viticulture.

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