ESTATE ARGYROS | Santorini | Cuvee Palatia | 2023
assyrtiko

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As one of the island’s most venerable wineries, Estate Argyros dates back to 1903 – a testament to four generations of unwavering dedication to winemaking. Their estate’s philosophy is simple: exceptional wines begin with exceptional grapes. This conviction drives the winery’s reliance on old vines, with the average vine age exceeding 70 years, while some parcels have vines over two centuries old. The old vines provide the depth and concentration which is essential for creating wines that not only are capable to capture the unique essence of the volcanic soils of Santorini, but also possess that rare ability to stand the test of time.
Today we are going to review a truly exceptional wine from PDO Santorini – one of Greece‘s most famous wine regions – Santorini Cuvee Palatia 2023 by Estate Argyros. Assyrtiko is an indigenous grape variety of Greece, valued for its remarkable ability to express terroir and retain vibrant acidity even under the scorching Mediterranean sun. Originating from the volcanic soils of Santorini, Assyrtiko produces white wines of striking minerality and depth, often compared to Riesling due to its structure and complexity. Traditionally trained in the unique kouloura basket shape to protect the vines from fierce winds and heat, Assyrtiko has lately spread across mainland Greece – from Macedonia to the Peloponnese, as well as other Aegean Islands.Cuvee Palatia is the newest jewel in the estate’s acclaimed ‘Cuvée’ range, joining Monsignori, Evdemon, and Gerontampelo wines. Today’s wine is the culmination of over a decade of systematic study of Santorini‘s diverse micro terroirs, representing a blend of assyrtiko grapes sourced from ungrafted, 100-year-old vines, from seven iconic vineyards: Louros, Kavallieros, Ftelos, Vassalia, Agios Ioannis, Kastana, and Kamarades. It aims to offer a more delicate expression of Santorini’s unique volcanic terroir, showcasing generosity and elegance from these distinct plots, while at the same time pushing the boundaries of what single-varietal assyrtiko can achieve. After a brief maceration – a process that enhances aromatic complexity, the wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks using only native yeasts and then aged for 10 months on its fine lees with regular bâtonnage, to enhance overall complexity and texture. The wine is deliberately vinified and aged entirely in stainless steel tanks in order to preserve the assyrtiko‘s pure varietal character and the delicate minerality imparted by the Santorin‘s volcanic terroir.

Rising from the remnants of an ancient volcano, the Santorini island stands as one of the world’s most distinctive winegrowing regions – a windswept, sun-drenched island where vines root in pure volcanic ash, pumice, and basalt. These mineral-rich and porous soils are almost devoid of clay and organic matter, providing natural immunity to phylloxera and forcing the vines to struggle for survival, yielding grapes of remarkable concentration and salinity. Santorini boasts a dry mediterranean climate with low rainfall and intense summer heat, which is tempered by cool sea breezes and the powerful Meltemi winds from the Aegean Sea, which moderates temperatures, prolongs ripening, and keeps vines free from disease.

To withstand the fierce winds and scorching sun, local growers employ the ancient ‘kouloura‘ training system – vine canes woven into protective basket-like wreaths that cradle the grapes near the ground. This training method shelters the grapes from the winds, salt spray, and direct sunlight, while also helping them capture precious moisture during the humid nights. Santorini’s vineyard produce exceptionally low yields, often below 20 hl/ha, resulting in wines of profound intensity and complexity. Assyrtiko is the island’s champion grape that expresses the terroir through it’s piercing acidity, vibrant citrus, smoky minerality, and a saline finish that mirrors the surrounding sea. Smaller plantings of Aidani and Athiri lend aromatic lift, elegance and finesse. The wines of Santorini embody the island’s dramatic landscape with their mineral-volcanic character, where every sip speaks of fire, sea, and stone – the Ancient Greece itself.

color: medium-deep pastel-yellow color
clarity: pale straw-yellow hues

In the glass, the wine presents a captivating medium-deep, pastel-yellow color, with pale, straw-yellow shades that shimmer towards the rim, hinting at its vibrant energy.

intensity: pronounced & citrusy-vibrant
fruit character: ripe

The nose is a pronounced, with a citrusy-vibrant accent, unfolding with a ripe fruit character that immediately draws you in. In the foreground, an invigorating medley of lemon, pomelo, and white grapefruit takes center stage, beautifully complemented by notes of orchard fruits like asian pear, white apple, quince, and white flat peach. As the wine breathes, subtle hints of golden honeycomb and a stony chalkiness emerge, adding complexity and a touch of the mineral-driven terroir. The background reveals an alluring mineral dimension, reminiscent of sun-dried hay, riverstone, meadow, and a whisper of beeswax, all supported by elegant hints of honeysuckle. A touch of yeast-derived undertones add an extra layer of aromatic sophistication – a testament to the wine’s extended lees aging.

sweetness: bone dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: medium- | balance: fine
finish: long | aftertaste: seedy-crisp

On the palate, this is a very complex and impeccably structured wine, offering a harmonious blend of richness, vibrancy, and expressiveness – a textbook Santorini Assyrtiko. It tastes bone dry, with exuberant acidity that provides a refreshing backbone and slices through the wine’s intensity with remarkable precision. A well integrated alcoholic warmth adds structure and presence without ever feeling heavy, contributing to the wine’s ample texture. A delicate touch of phenolic bitterness emerges on the mid-palate, imparting depth and enhancing the wine’s intricate character. The mouthfeel is rich and ample, culminating in a persistent, seedy-crisp aftertaste that reverberates with a touch of saline minerality.

maturity: in its prime | drink now or within the next 2 to 3 years
verdict: great | benchmark wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

Overall, this is an outstanding, single-varietal Assyrtiko wine with a remarkably complex palate – the epitome of a volcanic, terroir-driven Santorini wine. This is a very well-structured and immensely appealing wine with amazing varietal typicity. The delicate terroir-driven hints reflect its place of origin through those subtle, mineral notes of chalk and riverstone. This is a wine in its prime form that holds hints of future elegance and finesse. While it is ready to be enjoyed today, it also possesses excellent aging potential, promising to develop greater aromatic complexity over the next 2 to 3 years.

The wine’s vibrant acidity and rich texture makes it a good match for a complementary pairing that would highlight its oceanic character, like for example a grilled sea bass stuffed with fresh lemon and fresh herbs, drizzled with extra virgin olive oil. The wine’s crisp acidity will cut beautifully through the richness of the fish, while its herbal and citrus notes will resonate with the aromatics of the dish. Enjoy!
ESTATE ARGYROS | Santorini | Cuvee Palatia | 2023
variety: assyrtiko
country: Greece
region: Santorini
rating: 95.4

Argyros Estate was founded in 1903 and is currently led by Mathew Argyros. The Argyros Estate is the largest private owner of vineyards on Santorini, boasting over 120 hectares overall. The island of Santorini sits on an active volcano – a geological marvel that gifts its soils unique properties, making it phylloxera-immune, a rarity in the wine world. This allows all vines to be ungrafted, growing on their original rootstock. The traditional vine training systems, ‘kouloura’ (basket-shaped), along with ‘koulouri’ and ‘klada’, are a fascinating sight, protecting the precious grapes from the island’s strong winds and intense sun. These systems also conserve moisture, which is a vital adaptation to the arid landscape.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!