TH{EROS} | Vidiano | Single Vineyard | 2023
vidiano

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Founded in 2020 by Constantinos Manouras, Theros Wine Collectiva emerged from a deep passion to reveal the untapped potential of Crete’s ancient vineyards and its unique indigenous grape varieties. The winery’s philosophy is focused on a profound understanding of the relationship between the land and the vine. Constantinos and his team are dedicated to preserving the Crete’s rich winemaking heritage by focusing on single-varietal, single-vineyard wines, ensuring that each bottle reflects the unique microclimates, soil composition, and meticulous cultivation practices of its specific plot.
Today we are going to review a single varietal vidiano wine that comes from the sun-drenched Peza sub-region of Crete in southern Greece – Vidiano Single Vineyard 2023 by Theros Wine Collectiva. Vidiano is a very rare white grape from Crete (considered by some the ‘queen of indigenous white grape varieties’) that was only recently introduced into commercial production, yet already considered one of Greece’s most promising grape varieties. It thrives in lower-yielding vineyards and is still undergoing a steep learning curve among growers, but early results show impressive quality, with many believing it could excel further in cooler sites or higher-altitude plantings despite its late ripening. Vidiano wines are defined more by texture than aromatics, offering subtle notes of stone fruit, flowers, citrus and mediteranian herbs, balanced by medium to high acidity, a touch of phenolic bitterness that builds a firm backbone, and the ability to express terroir. Single-varietal vidiano wines are produced in small quantities, making them very hard to find, and while its full potential is still being explored, the best examples are believed to develop gracefully for at least a couple of years.

Today’s wine is crafted from 100% vidiano grapes, sourced from a single vineyard in the PDO Peza, where the vines are traditionally trained in a pergola configuration, in order to keep the grapes shaded and prevent them from sunburns. The 2023 vintage yielded grapes of exceptional quality, which were hand-harvested and then vinified with a low-intervention approach. Before bottling, the wine spent 6 months of aging on fine lees (sur lie ageing) with regular bâtonnage – a winemaking technique designed to enhance aromatic complexity, gaining in body and enriching its texture.

Crete is the southernmost and one of the most ancient winegrowing regions of Greece. It combines rugged mountains, sun-drenched coastlines, and centuries of viticultural tradition to create one of the most harsh terroirs. The island experiences a warm mediterranean climate with long, dry summers, abundant sunlight, and mild winters, moderated by strong northerly winds and cooling maritime influences from the Aegean and Libyan Seas. These breezes temper the extreme heat, reduce disease pressure in the vineyard, and extend the ripening season, allowing grapes to develop complex aromatics. Many vineyards are bush-trained (kouloura), arch-trained (pergola) or planted at higher elevations to protect the grapes from intense sunlight and heat. Combined with naturally low yields, this results in wines of deep concentration, razor-sharp purity, and a distinct hot climate character.
The island’s geology is equally complex, shaped by limestone, marl, schist, and pockets of volcanic deposits, with many vineyards planted on slopes that benefit from excellent drainage and large diurnal temperature shifts. This diversity supports an array of indigenous varieties that define Crete’s unique wine identity. Vidiano, considered as the island’s rising star, produces nicely-textured, aromatic whites with stone-fruit richness and vibrant acidity. Assyrtiko shows a slightly broader and more herbal expression compared to Santorini, while Thrapsathiri, Vilana, Muscat of Spina, Kotsifali, Mandilaria, and the deeply coloured Liatiko give rise to a spectrum of wine styles, from fresh and mineral to bold and structured.

color: pale yellow color
clarity: straw-yellow hues

In the glass, the wine presents a clean and pale yellow color, with bright, straw yellow hues shimmering gently at the rim, hinting at its freshness and aromatic complexity.

intensity: rich & ample
fruit character: ripe & underripe

On the nose, the wine is rich and ample, displaying a captivating interplay of ripe to underripe fruit character. In the foreground, a vibrant medley of orchard fruits unfolds, featuring nashi pear, white apple, and white flat nectarine, elegantly interwoven with zesty citrus notes of lemon and pomelo. After a while, the second wave unfolds with delicate and intriguing mineral hints of clay and chalk. As the aromatic layers evolve, the background introduces an elegant floral bouquet of hawthorn flower, jasmine, and acacia blossom, complemented by fresh, verdant herbal nuances of meadow and the sweet, waxy tones of beeswax. Some subtle, yet distinctive, undertones of greek yogurt and brioche add a creamy, savory dimension, enriching the wine’s aromatic profile with an appealing depth.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: medium- | balance: fair
finish: medium+ | aftertaste: crisp & rough

On the palate, this wine delivers a crisp and slightly austere character that, while notably heady, possesses a firm and rustic textured grip. This mouthfeel, contributing to its authentic charm, suggests a wine with a raw, untamed expression over polished finesse. It tastes dry, propelled by a crisp acidity that provides a dynamic and invigorating freshness, acting as the wine’s core backbone. A generous alcoholic warmth asserts itself on the mid-palate, contributing to the wine’s ample body and robust structure, adding a powerful dimension without overwhelming the primary flavors. All of that is elegantly counterbalanced by a touch of phenolic bitterness that adds depth, culminating in a crisp, and somewhat rough aftertaste.

maturity: in its prime | drink now or within a year
verdict: fine | highly recommended | a wine of premium quality

Overall, this is a well-structured and authentic expression of the Vidiano grape variety, showcasing its indigenous, raw and untamed character. The wine captivates with a vibrant citrusy-herbal aromatic profile and a distinct, terroir-driven minerality that speaks of its volcanic origins. The palate leans towards a raw style that, despite a certain lack of conventional harmony and polished finesse, maintains a compelling sense of place and varietal typicity. This wine is in its prime form, offering immediate enjoyment with its lively energy and directness, as it does not promise to evolve into a wine of greater aromatic complexity.

Consider pairings this wine with a classic cretan dish, like for example grilled octopus with a generous drizzle of the finest extra virgin olive oil, fresh lemon, oregano, and capers, served alongside a fava (split pea puree) seasoned with local herbs. The wine’s sharp acidity will cut through the richness of the olive oil and the smooth texture of octopus, while its herbal undertones will harmonize with the fresh herbs in the dish, creating an authentic gastronomic experience. Cheers!

TH{EROS} | Vidiano | Single Vineyard | 2023
variety: vidiano
country: Greece
region: Crete | Peza
rating: 92.0

The name TH{EROS} itself is a poetic fusion between ‘Eros,’ meaning Love, and ‘Theros,’ meaning Summer – a perfect embodiment of the joyful and sun-kissed spirit of Crete’s wines. Furthermore, the winery’s commitment to low intervention winemaking underscores their respect for both the environment and the pure expression of the Crete’s unique grape varieties.


© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!