BODEGAS MUGA | Casa Conde de Haro | Cava | Brut Rosé | 2016
grenache

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Bodegas Muga was established in 1932 in the historic town of Haro, founded by Isaac Muga and Aurora Caño. This family-owned estate, now steered by the third generation, remains one of the few wineries in Spain to employ a master cooper and a team of in-house barrel makers. It is with this same meticulous philosophy that they approach sparkling wine production.
Today we are going to review a quite remarkable sparkling wine from Spain – a fully mature vintage Cava that challenges perceptions – Casa Conde de Haro Cava Brut Rosé 2016 by Bodegas Muga. Made entirely of garnacha tinta grapes (which is the local name of grenache noir), sourced from high-altitude vineyards in Alto Najerilla and Rioja Alta. The wine is produced by the authentic méthode traditionelle (also known as champenoise method), the same way the famous Champagne is made, with second fermentation in the bottle, where the wine then spends 36 months on fine lees (a process known as ‘sur lie ageing’), which allowed it to develop more aromatic sophistication, an extra layer of complexity and the much desired creaminess on the palate. This is also a millésime sparkling wine, which means that it was created from a single harvest, that of 2016.

Cava is the spanish answer to the famous french Champagne, and the more one explores Cava, the more parallels are found with Champagne. Most Cava on the market is the basic-level Cava Brut, but like in Champagne, Cava has a well defined classification system that defines the minimum ageing on lees for its upper levels: Reserva and Gran Reserva. Generally speaking, the longer the wine ages on fine lees, the more toasty and nutty aromas it will develop. Well-aged, vintage Gran Reserva Cava sparkling wines are similar to Vintage Champagne in both, style and complexity.

When it comes to sparkling wines, not all of them are created the same way. One of the key differences lies in how the bubbles are formed — specifically, whether the wine undergoes its second fermentation in the bottle (traditional method) or in large pressurized tanks (tank method, also known as charmat method). In the tank method the secondary fermentation happens in stainless steel tanks rather than individual bottles. This process is quicker, more cost-effective, and preserves the wine’s vibrant fruit character and freshness. The result is a more aromatic, easy-drinking sparkling wine with crisp acidity and minimal yeasty complexity (think of Prosecco). On the other hand, the traditional method is a more time-intensive process, as the second fermentation happens in the bottle, where the wine also ages on the fine lees (the dead yeast particles) for extended periods, from several months to several years. This slow aging builds extra layers of complexity on the nose and creates a creamy textures on the palate (think of classic sparkling wines like Champagne, Cava, or Franciacorta).

Cava is not a single wine region, but rather a designation for traditional-method sparkling wines produced throughout Spain, with the greatest concentration in Catalonia around Sant Sadurní d’Anoia (known as Comtats de Barcelona) and Valle del Ebro (which includes Rioja, Navarra and Aragón). Despite this geographic spread, all Cava regions share a mediterranean-influenced climate, often moderated by altitude, which helps preserve natural acidity in the grapes. Soils vary widely depending on the location, but are mostly dominated by limestone, clay, and chalk, providing good drainage and water retention. The traditional Cava varieties, Macabeo, Xarel·lo, and Parellada thrive in these conditions, producing base wines of vibrant freshness, moderate alcohol, and great structural balance – all essential characteristics of high-quality sparkling wines made by the traditional method.

Valle del Ebro is a vast and diverse wine-growing corridor shaped by the Ebro River and influenced by a mix of mediterranean and continental climates. Summers are typically hot and dry, while winters can be cool, with strong winds, such as the famous Cierzo, helping to regulate temperature extremes, reduce humidity, and maintain vine health. Vineyards are planted across river terraces, plains, and gentle slopes. Soils range from limestone and clay, to sandy and alluvial deposits, allowing for a wide range of grape varieties to thrive in these conditions. Sparkling wines produced in the Valle del Ebro are characterized by a good balance between ripeness and freshness, with great structure, and a very clear varietal expression.

color: medium-pale amber color
clarity: bright golden hues at the rim

In the glass, the wine displays a captivating amber color with bright golden shades towards the rim. This hue is a clear indicator of the win’s extended maturation, promising a complex tasting experience.

intensity: rich & toasty
fruit character: dried & dehydrated

The olfactory profile is rich and unmistakably mature, led by a pronounced toasty and yeasty aromas. The foreground is a symphony of autolytic notes derived from its long lees aging: freshly baked rye bread, brioche, toasted bread crust, and biscuit immediately come to mind. These are gracefully interwoven with creamy hints of panna cotta, crème brûlée, and homemade butter, alongside subtle savory touches of hay and oatmeal. In the background, a complex fruit character of dried orchard fruits emerges, showcasing dehydrated apricot, dried quince, baked apple, and overripe peach. This aromatic tapestry is completed by very subtle and delicate, spicy-nutty undertones of almonds, cashew, and a whisper of coriander seeds.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: medium+ | tannin: medium- | balance: good
finish: medium+ | aftertaste: appealingly-seedy

The palate is complex and well balanced, delivering the quintessential experience of a mature vintage sparkling wine. The attack is dry and crisp, carried by a vibrant acidity that keeps the wine lively and refreshing despite its age. The mouthfeel is creamy and textural – a direct result of the extended time spent on the lees, which coats the palate with a sophisticated smoothness. A well-integrated touch of alcoholic warmth adds body and presence, while a subtle hint of phenolic bitterness on the mid-palate. The finish is long and persistent, with a pronounced toasty accent and an appealingly-seedy aftertaste.

maturity: fully mature or past its prime | drink now – do not age any further
verdict: great | a benchmark wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

Overall, this is a textbook example of a traditional method sparkling wine that display that unmistakable, autolytic charm that defines this wine category. It is a wine of amazing complexity – a well-structured and very appealing Cava that would confidently stand on par with many vintage Champagne wines. The wine is fully mature and has reached its peak drinking window, in fact, it is a wine to be savored yesterday rather than tomorrow. No further bottle aging is required or recommended. This is a superbly preserved vintage Cava – a true connoisseur’s delight that offers a profound and memorable tasting experience.

Given its depth and toasty character, this wine would pair beautifully with main dishes rather than some aperitif. For a complementary pairing, serve it alongside roasted chicken with herbs, pan-seared scallops in a butter sauce, or a creamy mushroom risotto, where the wine’s nutty-yeasty tones will harmonize with the earthy and savory flavors of the food. For a more contrasting pairing, match the wine’s vibrant acidity with the richness of traditional cured meats like Jamón Ibérico or a selection of aged, hard cheeses such as Comté or Manchego, thus creating a delightful interplay of textures and flavors. Cheers!BODEGAS MUGA | Casa Conde de Haro | Cava | Brut Rosé | 2016
variety: grenache
country: Spain
region: Cava
rating: 94.7

A fascinating aspect of Bodegas Muga is its complete control over its oak program. It is one of the very few wineries in Spain with its own in-house cooperage, employing a master cooper and a team of craftsmen who build and toast the barrels used for aging their iconic red wines.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!