PODERE SAPAIO | Sapaio | Toscana | 2018
cabernet sauvignon | petit verdot | cabernet franc

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Podere Sapaio was founded in 1999 by Massimo Piccin and is nestled on the Etruscan Coast (a rugged and wild land where he saw immense potential) within Tuscany wine region in Italy. Massimo’s vision was to create wines that are pure expressions of the Bolgheri micro-region’s unique terroir, while embracing modern winemaking techniques. Today, Podere Sapaio is a notable producer of expressive Super Tuscan wines.
Today we are going to review a genuine Super Tuscan wine from Italy‘s most celebrated wine region, the mighty Tuscany – Sapaio Toscana 2018 by Podere Sapaio. The winery is located on the Etruscan Coast in the Maremma Toscana area, hidden between the hills by cypress trees and pine groves. This region is the birthplace of Super Tuscan wines, which now has its own appellation. Made with passion and attention to every detail, this is the estate’s flagship wine and a true masterpiece – a blend of 70% cabernet sauvignon, 20% petit verdot and 10% cabernet franc, where cabernet sauvignon forms the wine’s main body and structure, petit verdot adds up-front richness and black fruit flavors, while cabernet franc builds a more refined mid-palate and offers a leaner and a more dynamic finish. In order to soften the tannins and add a layer of extra complexity to the final blend, but at the same time to preserve the varietal character of each grape variety and the essence of the local terroir, the wine is fermented only in concrete tanks (which minimizes the influence of the oak) and then aged partially in small, french oak barriques, and partially in big wooden foudres for 18 months, with additional 18 months of bottle ageing before it was deemed ready for the market release. The 2018 vintage was a notably good year in coastal Tuscany, characterized by a balanced growing season that allowed for gradual and slow, but complete phenolic ripeness.

Situated between the municipalities of Castagneto Carducci and Bibbona, the vineyards of Podere Sapaio wine estate benefit from the unique microclimate of the Etruscan Coast. The proximity to the Tyrrhenian Sea is paramount, as its breezes mitigate the summer heat, ensuring a long and even ripening season, while the water’s surface reflects sunlight onto the vines, enhancing enriched photosynthesis. The soils are a complex mosaic of sand, clay, marine limestone, and rounded pebbles deposited by ancient waterways. This diverse composition provides excellent drainage and imparts a distinct mineral-driven character to the wines. Unlike the more continental climate of inland Tuscany, this coastal terroir yields wines of depth.

The Toscana region has long boasted an impressive reputation in the world of great wines, earning its prestige as one of the most promising and creative production areas in the world of wine as a result of a number of forward-thinking producers that experimented with international grape varieties modern winemaking techniques. It is home to some of the world’s most famous wines known as ‘Super Tuscan‘.

Super Tuscan wines emerged in the late 1960s, when a handful of pioneering winemakers in the region rebelled against the restrictive rules of traditional italian appellations. By blending Sangiovese with international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Syrah, and by adopting modern barrel aging techniques, they created bold, innovative wines that quickly gained global acclaim. These ‘rule-breaking’ wines became known as Super Tuscans.

color: deep & opaque ruby color
clarity: hazy & noble garnet shades

In the glass, the Sapaio presents a deep and opaque ruby color – a visual promise of its concentration and intensity. Towards the rim of the glass, hazy garnet shades emerge, hinting at the wine’s developing maturity and complexity. This is a textbook appearance for a high-caliber Super Tuscan wine.

intensity: rich & expressive
fruit character: dehydrated

The nose is immediately rich and expressive, offering a classic Super Tuscan aromatic profile that centered around dehydrated dark fruits. The foreground is a captivating wave of aronia, blackberry, dark cherry, and prune, intricately woven with a spicy medley of peppercorn, cloves, and nutmeg. As the wine breathes, delicate layers of liquorice and petrichor add intrigue and sophistication. In the background, a more profound complexity unfolds, with notes derived from its long aging: rich aromas of tobacco, vanilla, toasted oak, and sun-dried oakwood merge with an earthy foundation of pencil lead, crushed granite, charcoal, and a subtle hint of black soil dust.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: fine
finish: long | aftertaste: crisp & seedy

The palate delivers a rich, nuanced and multi-layered sensation. The wine feels bone-dry, driven by a mouth-watering acidity that brings vibrancy and lift, while a touch of well integrated alcoholic warmth adds structure. The tannins are a key feature – seedy, grippy, and firm, they coat the mouth with a fine-grained texture that speaks to the wine’s complexity and significant aging potential. The body is full and concentrated, yet the wine never feels heavy, maintaining a beautiful harmony between its powerful fruit, mineral earthiness, and formidable structure. It culminates in a long and persistent finish with a pleasantly crisp and appealingly-seedy aftertaste.

maturity: still developing | drink now or within the next 3 to 5 years
verdict: excellent | a reference wine | a wine that can reach into the realm of perfection

Overall, this is a classic example of a modern-styled Super Tuscan wine that flawlessly marries power with finesse. It is a harmonious, terroir-driven, and complex wine that showcases the unmistakable footprint of its coastal Tuscan origin. While its rich fruit and extracted profile are compelling, the wine is still in a developing phase, with its grippy tannins suggesting it has a long and promising life ahead. That being said, it feels approachable today with decanting, but in order to witness its full potential, we recommend cellaring it for at least another 3 to 5 years. This is a wine that embodies the perfect balance between expressivity, structure, and elegance.

The wine’s bold and rich character calls for dishes rich in protein and fat. A classic pairing would be a Bistecca alla Fiorentina, where the wine’s acidity would cut through the richness of the steak, while its spicy and earthy notes will beautifully complement the char and herbal seasoning of the meat. For a more creative and complementary match, consider a wild boar stew (cinghiale in umido) slowly simmered with juniper and bay leaves, where the gamey notes of the boar will resonate beautifully with the wine’s earthy character and oaky accents, creating a quintessentially-tuscan wine tasting experience. Enjoy!
PODERE SAPAIO | Sapaio | Toscana | 2018
variety: cabernet sauvignon | petit verdot | cabernet franc
country: Italy
region: Toscana
rating: 96.7

The winery’s name, ‘Sapaio’, is a tribute to an ancient, now obscure, tuscan grape variety, reflecting the founder’s deep respect for the region’s history, while focusing on international grapes. Furthermore, the Sapaio wine is classified as IGT Toscana – a legacy of the ‘Super Tuscan’ movement from the 1970s. This classification was born when pioneering winemakers chose to operate outside the established DOC/DOCG regulations in order to create wines that they believed expressed in a better way the local terroir, using non-traditional grape varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, thus creating a new category of iconic Italian wines.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!