SAUSKA | Cuvée 13 | Villány | 2021
cabernet sauvignon | merlot | blaufränkisch | cabernet franc | syrah

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Sauska is a tale of two terroirs, a modern winery with deep roots in two of Hungary’s most prestigious wine regions: the volcanic soils of Tokaj and the sun-drenched slopes of Villány. The story begins with Krisztián Sauska – a hungarian-american entrepreneur who returned to his homeland with a vision to create world-class wines. He established his wineries with a no-compromise philosophy, investing in state-of-the-art technology while maintaining a profound respect for tradition and terroir.

Today we are going to review another wine blend that comes from one of our favourite wine growing areas – the mighty Villány, which is Hungary‘s warmest wine region – Cuvée 13 | Villány | 2021 by Sauska. Made only with selected grapes from the winemaker’s best vineyards in Villány (planted on hill slopes, rich in loess, clay and marl-rich soils – namely the Ördögárok, Konkoly, Makár and Kopár vineyards), this wine is a harmonious blend of five grape varieties: cabernet sauvignon, merlot, blaufränkisch (known as kékfrankos in Hungary), cabernet franc (also known locally as villány franc) and syrah, where cabernet sauvignon forms the wine’s main body and structure, merlot adds up-front richness and builds a more refined mid-palate, blaufränkisch brings black fruit flavors to the foreground, cabernet franc rounds up the final blend and offers a more dynamic finish, whereas syrah enhances the wine’s color depth and adds tannin extract.

The 2021 vintage was quite challenging, starting warm and dry late in the spring, but a cool and rainy September provided the crucial moisture, preserving freshness in the grapes and resulting in wines that balance richness with vibrancy. The winemaking was meticulous, including a five-day cold soak to extract the rich fruit aromatics, followed by fermentation in stainless steel vats. In order to preserve the varietal characteristics of the grape varieties, the wine has been fermented using only indigenous yeast strains, then aged for 8 months partly in stainless steel tanks, and partly in used oak barrels.

Nestled in southern Hungary, Villány is one of the country’s most prestigious wine regions. Benefiting from a warm and dry climate with mediterranean influences, the region provides excellent conditions for cultivating red grape varieties. The long and sunny growing season ensures rich concentration in the fruit, while cool nights help preserve freshness and balance. The soils here are primarily clay and loam, with limestone and loess sub-soil, offering both good moisture retention and mineral depth that encourage healthy vine growth and complex flavor development. This unique terroir yields structured wines that with remarkable depth. While Cabernet Franc is the region’s champion grape variety, producing elegant and complex wines, Villány is also famous for its Kékfrankos, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon wines.

Villányi Franc is the epitome of a terroir-driven Cabernet Franc wine. The Villány wine region has proven to be ab ideal microclimate for the cultivation of the Cabernet Franc grapes. With strong mediterranean influences, it is one of the warmest wine regions in Hungary, famous for its loess topsoil over a limestone bedrock. The abundance of sunshine ensures optimal ripeness and concentration in the grapes, while the loess provides excellent water retention and warmth, whereas the limestone imparts a distinct minerality and elegance to the wines. Unlike the cooler Loire Valley, where Cabernet Franc is often lighter and more herbaceous, or the warmer Bordeaux/Toscana pair, where it’s typically a blending partner rather a single varietal wine, Villány allows the variety to shine at its full potential, often producing a voluptuous and elegant expression with ripe tannins and a complex, spicy character that is nothing short of world-class. Known as Hungary’s benchmark region for Cabernet Franc wines, Villányi Franc consistently delivers robust yet refined expressions that stand shoulder to shoulder with most of world’s great terroirs.

color: deep ruby color
clarity: hazy ruby shades

In the glass, the wine presents a deep ruby color, with youthful, hazy ruby reflections shimmering at the rim, hinting at its vibrant and energetic nature.

intensity: rich & savory
fruit character: ripe

The nose is immediately rich and expressive, leading with a compelling savory character defined by ripe fruit. The aromatic profile is multi-layered and complex. In the foreground, a medley of dark fruits unfolds with notes of blue plum, blueberry, blackberry, and aronia berry, complemented by intriguing savory hints of new leather, iron, and black olive, all lifted by an elegant floral whisper of violets. In the background, a supporting cast of aromas adds depth and sophistication, revealing subtle notes of toasted oakwood, vanilla, cloves, and sweet tobacco from its time in barrel, alongside a gentle spiciness of peppercorn and nutmeg, and a distinct earthy minerality reminiscent of loam, marl, and pencil lead, with a cool, subtle hint of menthol on the finish.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: medium+ | tannin: high | balance: good
finish: long | aftertaste: crisp & tart

The palate is rich and nuanced, confirming the old-world style suggested by the nose. The mouthfeel is both ample and beautifully textured, characterized by a seedy-crisp sensation that is both refreshing and engaging. The wine’s structure is built on its bright acidity and seedy tannins that provide a pleasant grip. A touch of well-integrated alcoholic warmth adds to its medium-to-full body, creating a round and satisfying presence. The flavor profile is a harmonious blend of rich dark fruit and savory, earthy elements, leading to a long, persistent finish that leaves a crisp and slightly tart aftertaste.

maturity: developing | drink now or within the next 2 to 3 years
verdict: fine | an excellent wine | a wine of premium quality with good potential

Overall, this is a well-made and nicely structured wine blend that manages to deliver the vibrancy of its fruit and the unmistakable footprint of its Villány origin. It is a pure-bred blend that skillfully combines nuance with structure, and terroir-driven minerality with savory delicacy. The use of oak is restrained and almost untraceable, allowing the richness of the fruit to shine through. In its current state, the wine feels youthful and crisp, showing nice ageing potential. While enjoyable today, it is still developing, therefore we would recommend cellaring it for at least another 2 to 3 years, which will allow its components to integrate further, softening the tannins and unlocking new layers of aromatic complexity.

The wine’s savory profile and mouth-watering acidity make it a perfect partner for fat-rich and flavorful dishes. Consider serving it alongside slow-braised lamb shanks with rosemary and garlic. The wine’s savouriness will cut through the richness of the meat, while its dark fruit and earthy notes will resonate with the savory herbs and umami flavors of the dish. Cheers!
SAUSKA | Cuvée 13 | Villány | 2021
variety: cabernet sauvignon | merlot | blaufränkisch | cabernet franc | syrah
country: Hungary
region: Villány
rating: 93.9

A fascinating aspect about the Sauska winery is its dual identity, operating in two completely different hungarian terroirs. While the Villány estate produces powerful and age worthy reds, the  Tokaj estate is renowned for its sweet Aszú wines and dry Furmints. This allows the winery to showcase the incredible diversity of hungarian wine under a single, quality-driven brand – a feat very few wineries can claim.
© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!