DOMENIUL BOGDAN | Primordial | Feteasca Neagra | 2020
feteasca neagra

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Today we are going to review a single-varietal feteasca neagra wine from Murfatlar sub-region of Dobrogea, Romania – Primordial | Feteasca Neagra 2020 by Domeniul Bogdan. Feteasca Neagra is an indigenous romanian variety that has been grown for hundreds of years on substantial plantings in the south of Moldova and eastern Muntenia and today, this is the most famous red variety in Romania. Wines made from feteasca neagra grapes are usually fruit-forward, complex and structured, wines that often are compared to merlot and cabernet franc, mostly due to their body, robust tannins and elegant textures. There is a rising demand for feteasca neagra wines on the regional as well as on the international markets and many wine experts consider this variety to be the visit card of romanian wines. Made from grapes that were sourced from the Murfatlar vineyards in Dobrogea, situated between the Danube River and the Black Sea, whose warm maritime climate is tempered by the cool sea breezes, this is a biodynamic wine, signed by the late oenologist Philippe Cambie. Biodynamic viticulture applies the principles of the organic farming: it does not use synthetic chemicals like herbicides, pesticides or fungicides, but rather a range of natural preparations, that have the role of starters in harmonization of the biological processes in the soil, where they stimulate microbial life. In order to preserve the varietal characteristics of feteasca neagra grapes, the wine has been aged for 12 months in medium toasted, french oak barriques at 2nd and 3rd use. That said and without further ado, let’s take a look at the wine tasting results.
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Take a look at the tasting notes below and our detailed assessment of the wine:

//Visual
colour: deep | opaque ruby color
clarity: hazy | noble ruby shades

//Olfactory
intensity: pronounced & dusty
fruit character: ripe & dehydrated

On the first nose the wine unveils a captivating olfactory journey, dominated by ripe and dehydrated black fruits, with notes of black plum, black cherry and blackberry in the foreground. These vibrant dark fruit notes intertwine harmoniously with delicate nuances of black soil dust and pencil lead. Subtle hints of iron and veal add a savory complexity that enhances the wine’s allure. The background reveals dried black cherry and dried black plum, mixed with notes of toasted oakwood, peppercorn, cloves, anise and tobacco, that create a delightful symphony of flavors, offering depth and sophistication to the wine’s aromatic profile.

//Palate
sweetness: dry | acidity: medium+ | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: good
finish: medium | aftertaste: ripe & hot

On the palate, the wine presents a captivating symphony of flavors, with its firm and rich profile, immediately engaging the senses with a full-bodied character that exudes power and expressivity. The ripe and overripe black fruits flavours take center stage, showcasing a delightful combination of sweetness and depth. Subtle notes of spice, oak and earth add complexity, enhancing the wine’s multi-dimensional taste profile. The crisp acidity brings vibrancy, while the ripe tannins provide structure and a satisfying grip on the mouthfeel. An overwhelming touch of alcoholic warmth further contributes to the wine’s bold character, leading to a ripe and hot aftertaste. This wine is a true testament to the artistry of winemaking, offering a firm, rich and heady experience.

//Verdict
maturity: developing | needs time – age for at least 3 to 5 more years
verdict: great | a must try wine

Overall, this is a ripe, rich and heady wine, that showcases the fruity-expressive nature of the feteasca neagra grape variety. The palate reveals an extracted and firm mouthfeel, with a slightly angular and austere character, that adds a touch of roughness on the edges. This is a wine that, in its current state, lacks harmony and finesse on the palate. Its dusty and hot nature reflects the terroir-driven quality of the wine, providing an authentic experience. With a bit of aging, the wine will be able to refine and round up its rough edges, thus developing into a well structured and nuanced wine, as the potential is clearly there.

//Scoring
DOMENIUL BOGDAN | Primordial | Feteasca Neagra | 2020
variety: feteasca neagra
country: Romania | Dobrogea
region: Murfatlar
rating: 93.4
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This is definitely a great wine of Romania and, with a total of 93.4 points scored, this wine is right there, among the best wines we’ve rated so far. Check our complete database on the wine rating page, where you can find all the wines that we have tasted and reviewed or go to the about us page and find out more about our exquisite rating system.

Pairing: Based on the wine’s expressive and dusty aromatic profile, we believe this wine will pair lovely with a slow-roasted lamb shank, served with fig and rosemary black olive tapenade, accompanied by wild mushroom risotto. The wine’s ripe and dehydrated fruit character will complement beautifully the succulent and tender lamb ans with the salty-sweet tones of the tapenade, while the wine’s delicate hints of iron will further enhance those umami-savory flavors of the dish. In the same key, the earthy undertones and subtle oak notes in the wine will complement the earthy flavours of the wild mushroom risotto, creating a symphony of flavors on the palate. This pairing will elevate your dining experience into a culinary delight, showcasing the wine’s terroir-driven and dusty character. Cheers!

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© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation.