TAKLER | Kékfrankos | Prémium | 2016
blaufränkisch

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Today we are are going to review a single-varietal blaufränkisch wine from Szekszárd wine region, located in the south of Hungary – Kékfrankos Prémium 2016 by Takler. Blaufränkisch is a very old, austrian grape variety – a cross between blauer zimmettraube and weißer heunisch. It was widely-planted throughout the Habsburg Monarchy and today it is the most important variety in Mittelburgenland, in Austria. It has many aliases: called limberger in Germany, lemberger in Washington state, franconia in Friuli, gamé in Bulgaria (it was once confused with gamay), kékfrankos in Hungary, burgund mare in Romania, frankovka modrá in Slovakia, modra frankinia in Slovenia and frankovka in Croatia and Czech Republic – internationally also known as the ‘Blue of the Danube‘. Blaufränkisch can yield wines with dense structure and prominent tannins. These wines are often impetuous in their youth, but develop velvety facets with age. Blaufränkisch shows an almost cabernet sauvignon-like ability to adapt to different terroirs, both, as fruity, high-volume wines and as intense, full bodied, single vineyard examples. In order to soften the tannins and gain extra complexity, this wine has been aged for 13 months in new, 500-liters, hungarian oak barrels. But enough with all that theory, that said and without further ado, let’s take a look at the wine tasting results.
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Take a look at the tasting notes below and our detailed assessment of the wine:

//Visual
colour: medium-deep | garnet color
clarity: hazy | copper shades on the rim

//Olfactory
intensity: rich & savory
fruit character: overripe & dehydrated

On the first nose, this wine exudes an intriguing olfactory experience, showcasing a captivating fruit character that leans towards overripe and dehydrated fruits. The foreground is dominated by a rich medley of earthy elements, where notes of loam, clay, old leather and iron intertwine gracefully. Subtle hints of veal, marl and cured meat add a delicate savory complexity to the wine’s profile. As the aroma unfolds, the background offers harmonious hints of forest floor, dried leaves and sun-dried oakwood. A touch of tobacco and rooibos adds an extra layer of complexity to the wine’s aromatic tapestry. It is a wine that highlights the allure of the old world wines and brings in a sense of rustic charm.

//Palate
sweetness: dry | acidity: medium+ | alcohol: medium+ | tannin: medium | balance: fair
finish: medium- | aftertaste: rough

On the palate, this wine showcases an austere and angular character that is both rough and slightly aggressive, leaving the impression of an unpolished wine. The first layer reveals an overripe and dried fruit character, with glimpses of red fruits intertwined with earthy and herbaceous undertones. The wine’s crisp acidity provides a vibrant and lively sensation on the mouthfeel, while the rough and seedy tannins contribute to the wine’s structure. An overwhelming touch of alcoholic warmth dominates over the palate, obscuring some of the flavors hidden in the background. The aftertaste is rough and slightly sharp, leaving a lingering impression of the wine’s unrefined nature. This wine is appealing to those wine enthusiasts, seeking a rustic, untamed and unapologetic tasting experience.

//Verdict
maturity: over its prime | a year too late – drink it now
verdict: nice | an enjoyable wine that requires pairing

Overall, this is a terroir-driven wine that displays a rustic and quite austere character – a wine that lacks harmony and finesse on the palate. On the nose the wine unveils a captivating interplay of overripe and dehydrated fruit notes, intertwined with earthy and herbaceous hints in the background. On the palate, however, it reveals itself as very rough and unbalanced wine, with a nuanced, angular and aggressive character. Although this wine embodies the essence of the blaufränkisch grape variety, it lacks the refinement and complexity that one would expect from a blaufränkisch wine. It mostly captures the raw and unpolished aspects of its origin, but falls short in achieving a harmonious and balanced expression.

//Scoring
TAKLER | Kékfrankos | Prémium | 2016
variety: blaufränkisch
country: Hungary
region: Szekszárd
rating: 90.9
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This is definitely a nice wine of Hungary and, with a total of 90.9 points scored, this wine is right there, among the best wines we’ve rated so far. Check our complete database on the wine rating page, where you can find all the wines that we have tasted and reviewed or go to the about us page and find out more about our exquisite rating system.

Pairing: Based on the wine’s rustic, austere and rough nature, we would recommend pairing it with a pan-seared venison medallions, served with wild mushroom sauce. The wine’s rough and aggressive character will complement the bold flavors of the game meat, while the wine’s earthy undertones will harmonize with the rich and rustic flavours of the mushrooms. The wine’s untamed austerity will match the wild and robust nature of the venison, creating a pairing that embraces the wine’s character and that terroir-driven profile, resulting in a hearty and satisfying culinary experience. Cheers!

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