ST. MICHAEL-EPPAN | Fallwind | Pinot Grigio | 2023
pinot grigio

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St. Michael-Eppan, established in 1907, has grown into a symbol of excellence in Südtirol. The winery is committed to producing wines that reflect the unique terroir of their vineyards, striving for purity and the expression of varietal typicity. Winemaker Hans Terzer has over 40 years of experience and has been instrumental in shaping the quality of white wines in the region, pioneering methods such as aging in oak barrique for white varieties in order to enhance complexity and add a layer of extra sophistication.

Today we are going to review a single varietal pinot grigio wine from the picturesque Alto Adige sub-region of Südtirol in northern Italy – Fallwind Pinot Grigio 2023 by St. Michael-Eppan. This wine is crafted from 100% pinot gris grapes – a variety known for its crisp acidity and zesty flavors when grown in cool and mountainous climates. The winemaking process employs careful hand harvesting and fermentation in stainless steel tanks with a brief contact on the skins, in order to ensure the preservation of the grape’s varietal aromas and characteristics. The majority of the wine (80%) was fermented in stainless-steel tanks, while the remainder (20%) has been fermented in oak barrels, followed by malolactic fermentation (MLC).

Pinot Grigio, also called Pinot Gris, is a french grape variety famous for its refreshing citrusy aroma and zesty acidity, that today is enjoying a wave of popularity perhaps greater than it has ever known. Technically speaking, pinot grigio and pinot gris are the two names of the same grape variety, yet stylistically winemakers are using the italian name to highlight the crisp style, usually totally dry with brilliant acidity, and the french name to underline the lean style, that is often slightly off-dry, with a smooth and creamy mouthfeel. The berries of the pinot gris / pinot grigio grape variety have a grayish-purple or pink-grey skin color, that’s why some of the wines could get that pinkish-peach shade after getting in contact with the grape skins during the pressing process or during maceration. There are many cool climate regions where pinot grigio / pinot gris has gained popularity in the last decade, but it is probably in Italy that this grape variety has reached its apogée. It is widely planted in the sub-alpine terraces of the Alto Adige (that lies in a ‘Y’ shaped glacial valley, right at the border between Austria and Italy), where it can produce refreshingly-zesty, vibrant and lively wines, usually untroubled by oak ageing.

The geographical features of Alto-Adige significantly contribute to the wine’s unique characteristics. The vineyards in the municipality of Eppan are situated at altitudes of 480-650 meters above sea level with southeast exposure, providing ideal sun exposure during the day and cooler temperatures at night, which promotes significant diurnal temperature variation, which in its turn helps to maintain the natural acidity in the grapes and contributes to the development of complex aromatics.

The limestone and gravel soil composition enhance the wine’s minerality and allows for excellent drainage while providing the necessary nutrients for healthy grape development, fostering healthy development of the grapes that encourage the production of complex wines. The balance created by the hot days’ and cool nights’ temperatures creates ideal conditions for growing Pinot Grigio while preserving its freshness.

The mountains, altitude, hilly slopes, and continental climate create a diverse microclimate, essential for cultivating a wide range of grape varieties. Compared to similar wines from other regions, Alto-Adige often exhibits a greater depth of flavor and a refreshing acidity. While the cool night-time winds from the Mendel Massif and limestone gravel soils create an ideal environment for cultivating white grape varieties.

color: clear & pale straw-white color
clarity: pastel-yellow shades at the rim

In the glass, this wine displays a pale straw-white color with enchanting pastel-yellow hues at the rim of the glass – a testament to the wine’s vibrancy and freshness.

intensity: rich & citrusy-zesty
fruit character: underripe

The wine’s olfactory experience is invitingly vibrant, offering a rich and citrusy-zesty aromatic profile with an intensity that speaks to its freshness. The foreground boasts notes of green pear and gooseberry, complemented by citrus notes of lemon zest, pomelo and grapefruit. Subtle herbal undertones of nettle and lemongrass add complexity, delivering a quite sophisticated aromatic experience.

sweetness: bone dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: medium- | balance: good
finish: medium+ | aftertaste: bitter-zesty

On the palate, the wine has a medium body, with a round and ample structure. The mouthfeel is vibrant and crisp, characterized by a zesty acidity that provides the much desired freshness. Its flavor profile showcases underripe fruits alongside herbal nuances, culminating in a bone-dry finish with an appealing touch of phenolic bitterness.

maturity: in its prime | drink now or within the next 2 years
verdict: fine | highly recommended | a wine of premium quality

Overall, this is a wine that is currently at its prime, offering an enticing experience that is ready to be enjoyed today or within the next two years. Its lively acidity and balanced structure promise some further development, that might enhance the wine’s complexity, but better keep an eye on this evolution, as it is always better to drink the wine a year too soon than a day too late.

ST. MICHAEL-EPPAN | Fallwind | Pinot Grigio | 2023
variety: pinot grigio
country: Italy | Südtirol
region: Alto Adige
rating: 92.7

Consider pairing this wine with mediterranean antipasti or light seafood dishes such as mahi mahi fillets drizzled with lemon, as the wine’s zesty profile would complement the freshness of these dishes, thus creating a harmonious balance that would enhance both, the wine and the food, creating a mesmerizing wine tasting experience.

The name ‘Fallwind’ refers to the local winds that cool the vineyards during the night – a natural phenomenon that imparts a unique character to the wines produced in this region.

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