VIILE METAMORFOSIS | Via Coltul Pietrei | Chardonnay | 2023
chardonnay

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The story of Vitis Metamorfosis begins with a vision to craft exceptional wines that echo the unique terroir of Romania’s Dealu Mare region. Established by a passionate group that includes Giancorrado Ulrich, Fiorenzo Rista, and Marquis Piero Antinori in 2009, the winery aims to produce high-quality wines, with a dedication to tradition and modern techniques. This commitment is evident in the crafting of the Cantvs Primvs project, which translates as ‘the first song’, highlighting the artistic essence of their winemaking philosophy.
Today we are going to review single varietal chardonnay wine from the famous Dealu Mare region of Romania – Via Coltul Pietrei Chardonnay 2023 by Vitis Metamorfosis. Chardonnay is one of the world’s most popular grape varieties, regarded by many as the ‘Queen of Whites‘ and it is prized for its flexibility and for the ability to produce top-notch wines in a wide range of climates and terroirs. Stylistically, there are two main types of chardonnay wines: on one hand we have the classic, creamy and rich, oak-aged style, that is backed up by winemakers in Napa Valley and most of the Grand Cru in Bourgogne, whereas on the other hand there’s the crisp, zingy and citrusy, unoaked style, that is mainly promoted by the new-world producers and most of the winemakers in the Chablis region.

The grapes for this wine were sourced from the south-exposed slopes of the Dealu Mare vineyards, and were subjected to a five-hour maceration period at very low temperatures inside a pneumatic press. This process carefully extracted the complex aromatic compounds, after which fermentation was kick-started in stainless steel tanks at 17°C, then the wine was transferred in oak barriques. After fermentation, the wine remained in the same barrels for six months in contact with the fine lees (the dead yeast cells that are left over from the fermentation process), after which it was bottled and released on the market.

Located in a hilly landscape, the Dealu Mare region’s varied altitudes and endless slopes foster excellent drainage and aeration necessary for vine health. The region benefits from a combination of geographical advantages that define its unique terroir. Its close proximity of the Carpathian Mountains moderates temperature extremes, allowing for a longer growing season. Its terroir is characterized by limestone-rich soils and a favorable microclimate defined by warm sunny days and cool nights. The elevation aids in preserving natural acidity while allowing the grapes to ripen fully. These natural elements combine to create wines that allows for the full expression of each grape variety with vibrant and complex aromas.
© Map credits: crameromania.ro

color: pale | straw-yellow color
clarity: clear | pastel-yellow hues

In the glass, the wine presents a pale, straw-white color with shimmering, pastel-yellow shades at the rim, indicative of its youthful vibrancy.

intensity: rich & oaky
fruit character: ripe

On the olfactory front, this wine offers a rich and ample bouquet. The aromas are predominantly of ripe orchard fruits, with notes of apple, pear, quince, and apricot, complemented by secondary hints of oak, including vanilla and cloves. Background aromas reveal a delightful blend of citrus elements like lemon zest and orange peel, along with grassy notes of straw and hay, which add character and complexity.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: medium- | balance: good
finish: medium+ | aftertaste: appealingly-seedy

The gustatory expression follows suit with an ample and round mouthfeel, characterized by a nuanced richness and nuanced fruity character. It presents a dry profile balanced by crisp acidity and a warm touch of alcoholic. The finish is appealing, with a subtly seedy aftertaste that invites another sip.

maturity: developing | drink now or within the next 2 years
verdict: fine | highly recommended | a wine of premium quality

Overall, this is a wine that is still developing, and while it can be enjoyed now, it would be better to enjoy it within the next two years. It exudes nicely the varietal typicity while expressing that nuanced, new-world style with a pronounced oaky finesse. All in all, the wine represents a commendable effort in winemaking and stands out as a very well-crafted yet approachable Chardonnay.

When it comes to food pairing, , consider pairing this wine with dishes featuring cream-based sauces, like a classic fettuccine alfredo or a genuine lasagna. The wine’s crisp acidity would cut through the richness of these dishes, while its fruity and oaky notes would harmonize well with the flavors of the dishes, thus creating a delightful wine tasting experience. Cheers!VIILE METAMORFOSIS | Via Coltul Pietrei | Chardonnay | 2023
variety: chardonnay
country: Romania | Muntenia
region: Dealu Mare
rating: 93.0

The Vitis Metamorfosis winery was founded in 2009 by Giancorrado Ulrich, Fiorenzo Rista and Marquis Piero Antinori. After consulting with Renzo Cotarella, the Managing Director of Antinori S.P.A., the Dealu Mare area was identified as the region with the most potential in terms of climate and terroir, which was in line with the philosophy of the Antinori family to produce high quality wines in the premium and super-premium segments, similar to the Super Tuscan wines produced by the family in the famous Tuscany region of Italy.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!