DONNAFUGATA | Angheli | Sicilia DOC | 2021
merlot | cabernet sauvignon

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Donnafugata (meaning ‘the woman on the run’) is a name inspired by the history of Queen Maria Carolina of Bourbon, who fled Naples and sought refuge in Sicily at the end of the 18th century. This historical narrative intertwines with the pioneering spirit of Donna Gabriella Rallo, who, alongside her husband Giacomo, established Donnafugata in the heart of western Sicily. Their vision was to produce wines of great quality with respect for the surrounding environment. The winery has become an emblem of sicilian excellence, combining tradition with innovation. The Angheli label further underscores this blend of strength, historical grandeur, and refined elegance, echoing the ancient ties and influences that have shaped Sicily.
Today we are going to review a quite intriguing wine from Sicily, which is one of Italy’s most underrated wine regions – Angheli Sicilia DOC 2021 by Donnafugata. This wine is a harmonious blend of two famous grape varieties: merlot and cabernet sauvignon, where merlot forms the wine’s main body and structure, while cabernet sauvignon adds structure, tannin extract and enhances the wine’s color depth. The constant search for perfection makes this wine a real classic – vinified in a genuine Bordeaux-style, with carefully selected, hand picked grapes from the estate’s very best sites of Contessa Entellina estate and surrounding territories in south-western Sicily. This wine embodies the region’s ability to interpret classic Bordeaux varietals with a unique south-mediterranean flair. The final wine has been aged for 12 months in french oak barriques (at second use), with additional 17 months of bottle ageing before its market release.

As the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, Sicily boasts one of Europe’s most diverse and ancient viticultural heritages. The region enjoys a sun-drenched, warm climate, moderated by cool coastal breezes and mountainous altitude, which together create ideal conditions for healthy grape growing with minimal disease pressure. This abundance of sunshine and dry, windy conditions promotes healthy grape ripening, while cooler nights in elevated vineyards help preserve natural acidity and freshness in the grape berries.

Sicily’s terroir is very unique, ranging from volcanic soils on Mount Etna, which impart minerality and tension, to limestone, clay, and sandy deposits across the island, each shaping distinct expressions of its wines. Indigenous grape varieties dominate the fray: Nero d’Avola, the flagship red grape produces bold and fruit-forward wines with lots of structure, while Frappato and Perricone add elegance and finesse. On the white side, Grillo, Catarratto, and Carricante thrive in these conditions, yielding wines of remarkable crispness, salinity, and aromatic complexity. International varieties like Syrah and Chardonnay also flourish, adding to the region’s versatility and elegance.

color: deep ruby color
clarity: hazy ruby shades

In the glass, the wine unveils a deep ruby color, with hazy ruby shades at the rim of the glass, hinting at the wine’s concentration.

intensity: rich & leathery
fruit character: ripe & overripe

The olfactory journey begins with a powerful and rich intensity, with a pronounced leathery profile, hinting at the wine’s depth and developing complexity. The fruit is ripe, with an avalanche of black fruits dominating the foreground: blackcurrant, juicy plum, dark cherry, and ripe blackberry. These fruit notes are beautifully intertwined with elegant aromas stemming from its oak aging – nuances of toasted oakwood, sweet tobacco, and warming cloves, all underpinned by a sophisticated leathery accents. As the wine breathes, a captivating background emerges, showcasing savory notes of iodine, cured meat, and a subtle iron minerality. These are complemented by notes of peppercorn, nutmeg, and a touch of sweet liquorice, further enriched by elegant hints of pencil lead and a refreshing menthol hint, providing a cool lift to the otherwise rich bouquet.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: good
finish: long | aftertaste: seedy & crisp

On the palate, this wine is nothing short of an epiphany – a blueprint new-world styled Bordeaux blend with a distinctly Sicilian soul. It showcases amazing structure and richness. The mouthfeel is pleasantly-seedy, firm, and grippy, with ripe yet grippy tannins. On the palate it feels crisp and expressive, with a captivating complexity that unfolds with each taste. An elegant touch of menthol and violets, along with subtle hints of balsamic vinegar, provides a refreshing counterpoint to the wine’s over-richness. All in all, this is a wine with exuberant acidity that provides remarkable freshness and balance, harmonizing perfectly with a nicely integrated, touch of alcoholic warmth. The tannins are grippy and firm, leading to a crisp and seedy aftertaste, demonstrating an impressive balance between power and elegance.

maturity: developing | drink now or age for another 3 to 4 years
verdict: great | a benchmark wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

Overall, this is a firm, vibrant, and remarkably rich wine with an incredible multi-layered and complex aromatic profile, where the fruity-leathery foreground beautifully complements the oaky-spicy background. It stands as the epitome of a modern Bordeaux-styled blend, ingeniously combining the delicate essence of Sicilian terroir with the vibrant richness of varietal fruit expression. This is a wine that is all about power and structure, it is still developing, displaying a good ageing potential. While it can certainly be enjoyed today, a further 3 to 4 years of bottle aging will undoubtedly unlock even greater complexity and finesse, allowing its leathery-savory touch to evolve into a truly magnificent expression.

Consider pairing this wine with a dish that can stand up to its firm structure and rich flavors. A lovely match would be a slow-braised oxtail ragu served over pappardelle, where the richness of the meat and sauce will beautifully soften the wine’s grippy tannins, while the wine’s vibrant acidity would cut through the fat of the dish, thus creating a truly sensational and unforgettable culinary experience. Cheers!
DONNAFUGATA | Angheli | Sicilia DOC | 2021
variety: merlot | cabernet sauvignon
country: Italy
region: Sicily
rating: 94.3

The name “Donnafugata” translates from italian as “the woman on the run” and is a homage to Queen Maria Carolina, who found refuge in Sicily. The Angheli label evokes Venice’s historical influence and cultural exchange with Sicily. Furthermore, the Contessa Entellina estate, home to Donnafugata’s vineyards, is famously intertwined with italian literature, being one of the settings in Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa’s iconic novel, “Il Gattopardo” (The Leopard), adding a layer of aristocratic charm to every wine bottle.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!