DALAMÁRA | Naoussa | Xinomavro | 2022
xynomavro

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The Dalamára Winery, located in the historic Naoussa region of Central Macedonia in Northern Greece, represents a legacy that spans five generations, tracing its winemaking roots back to 1840. Today, the estate is managed by Kostis Dalamára, whose journey to viticulture was anything but conventional. His extensive journeys across Europe, combined with the profound influence of his mentor, the late Haridimos Hatzidakis, shaped his philosophy: wine should be simple, fresh, and, above all, enjoyable. His vineyards are not merely monocultures but thriving ecosystems, embodying a philosophy of natural balance and non-intervention reminiscent of Japanese permaculture. This holistic approach ensures that each wine, particularly his Xinomavro, reflects the unique Naoussa terroir and the pure essence of the grape.
Today we are going to review a quite exceptional xinomavro wine from Naoussa, which is one of Greece‘s most promising wine regions – Naoussa Xinomavro 2022 by Dalamára Winery. Xinomavro, the Greece’s most important red grape variety, is often regarded as the ‘Barolo of Greece‘ due to its structure, aromatic complexity, and exceptional aging potential. Xinomavro translates as ‘bitter black and acidic’ – a name that perfectly encapsulates its character: astringent, with a high tannic content and a pronounced bitter-seedy accent, the resulting wines are austere in their youth but are capable to age for at least a decade.

Crafted from xinomavro grapes that were sourced from 10 to 40 years old vines, this wine is a testament to Kostis Dalamára‘s commitment to organic and biodynamic viticulture. The 2022 vintage has proven to be outstanding, with a cold winter and a dry summer, it allowed the grapes to fully develop without the risk of fungal disease. The wine has been fermented with only indigenous yeasts, by applying the minimal intervention practices with only a small amount of sulfur dioxide added, with no filtration, and no clarification. The final wine has been aged for 17 months in French oak barriques (300L & 225L, from which 10% at first use and 90% at 2nd and up to 5th use), with additional bottle ageing time before it was deemed ready for the market release.

The Macedonia wine region is one of Greece’s most important and diverse winegrowing areas, combining mountainous and maritime influences. Its climate is predominantly continental, with mediterranean touches: cold winters, warm summers, and significant diurnal shifts that help grapes retain acidity and develop aromatic complexity. Vineyards are planted at various elevations on soils ranging from limestone and clay, to schist and alluvial deposits, each shaping different wine styles. This varied terroir allows both indigenous and international varieties to thrive, producing wines that balance freshness with structure.

Situated on the eastern foothills of Mount Vermio in Macedonia, Naoussa is the cradle of Greece’s most noble grape variety – the famous Xinomavro. Vineyards here sit at 200–400 m altitude, benefitting from cool breezes off the mountains and a long ripening season that allow the grapes to develop complex aromatics while preserving the signature high natural acidity. The soils are mainly limestone, clay, and marl, offering good drainage and contributing to the grape’s tannic backbone and earthy profile. Wines from Naoussa are renowned for their firm structure, vibrant acidity, and savory-earthy aromas, often compared to italian Barolo for their age-worthiness and elegant evolution over time.
color: pale garnet color
clarity: hazy copper shades

In the glass, the wine showcases a characteristic pale garnet color, gently transitioning into alluring hazy copper shades at the rim of the glass.

intensity: rich & savory-rustic
fruit character: underripe

The aromatic profile is rich with a savory-rustic accent and an underripe fruit character. The foreground reveals a vibrant medley of red fruits: cranberry, tart red plum, and sour cherry. These fruit notes are beautifully interwoven with an intricate tapestry of savory elements, including old leather, a hint of iodine, briny black olive, a whisper of game, and the distinct freshness of cherry tomatoes, all underpinned by a nuanced, intriguing funky accent. As the aroma develops, the background unveils earthy layers of marl and dust, with herbal nuances of tomato stems, fragrant thyme, aromatic bay leaf, and a touch of asparagus that add further complexity, while very subtle hints of sun-dried oakwood provide a delicate frame without overpowering the inherent varietal expression.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: good
finish: long | aftertaste: crisp & grippy

On the palate, this is a genuine Xinomavro wine vinified in an organic and biodynamic style with a pronounced savory-rustic accent. The mouthfeel is ample and vibrant, structured and astringent, offering a delicate funky touch of game, fur, and leather that speaks to its authentic character. The wine tastes bone dry, showcasing a bright and vibrant acidity that provides immense freshness. There’s a noticeable touch of alcoholic warmth, adding depth and fullness without disrupting the balance. The tannins are seedy, providing a grippy texture that is a signature trait of the Xinomavro variety, leading to a crisp and persistently grippy aftertaste.

maturity: developing | drink now or age for 3 to 5 years
verdict: fine | an excellent wine | a wine of premium quality with good potential

Overall, this is a wine that brilliantly captures the varietal typicity of the Xinomavro grape variety, showcasing both its inherent power and its unexpected elegance. It stands as the epitome of an old-fashioned Xinomavro, managing to combine the unique delicacy of the Naoussa terroir with the profound expressivity of the Xinomavro grape variety. The restraint use of oak, which is almost untraceable, allows the pure character of the grape to shine, making it an honest representation of its origins. With its vibrant acidity, signature seedy mouthfeel, and a crisp, lingering finale, this wine is still developing, ready to be enjoyed today, or aged for another 3 to 5 years, during which it promises to evolve further, revealing even greater complexity and intriguing tertiary nuances.

Given the wine’s pronounced savory-rustic accent and slightly gamey profile, we believe that an ideal pairing would be a traditional slow-cooked Lamb Kleftiko. The rich, tender lamb, marinated with fragrant herbs like rosemary and thyme, and slowly baked with potatoes, garlic, and ripe tomatoes, will beautifully complement the wine’s depth and savory notes. The wine’s bright acidity will cut through the richness of the lamb, while its structured tannins will stand up to the meat’s texture, creating an authentic culinary experience. Enjoy!
DALAMÁRA | Naoussa | Xinomavro | 2022
variety: xynomavro
country: Greece
region: Macedonia | Naoussa
rating: 93.2

Kostis Dalamára, a sixth-generation winemaker, didn’t follow the traditional oenology path, instead he focused on gaining invaluable experience as a traveler, explorer, and wine shop proprietor. His mentor, the late Haridimos Hatzidakis, profoundly influenced his philosophy of crafting simple, fresh, and enjoyable wines. Upon returning to Greece, Kostis introduced organic and biodynamic practices, including spontaneous fermentations and significantly reduced sulfur dioxide levels. His estate is a living ecosystem where vineyards coexist with goats and chickens, reflecting a unique philosophy of natural balance and non-intervention.

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