CATLEYA | Steaua Fara Nume | Feteasca Neagra | 2019
feteasca neagra

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The story of the Catleya winery started in 2007, when three passionate french wine enthusiasts chose the delicate Catleya orchid, a symbol from Marcel Proust’s renowned novel In Search of Lost Time, as the emblem for their winemaking adventure. Since its inception, the winery has committed to organic agriculture, to solidify their dedication to sustainable practices and soil health.

Today we are going to review another rare wine from the Mehedinti-Corcova region of Oltenia, which is situated in southern Romania – Steaua Fara Nume Feteasca Neagra 2019 by Catleya. This is the winemaker’s flagship wine – a limited edition wine, made from hand picked feteasca neagra grapes that were ourced from a vineyard plot with high density vines, fostering lower yields for enhanced aromatic complexity and tannic concentration. With only 1,202 bottles produced, each one of them tells a story of the meticulous care taken from the vineyard to the bottle. Grapes were harvested and destemmed manually, followed by alcoholic fermentation carried out with indigenous yeasts, and a 8-day post-fermentative maceration for tannin extraction. The final wine has been aged for 24 months in romanian oak barrels of 400L, with additional time of bottle ageing before it was deemed ready for the market release.

Feteasca Neagra is an indigenous romanian grape variety that has been grown for hundreds of years on substantial plantings in the south of Moldova and eastern Muntenia and today, this is the most famous red variety in Romania. Wines made from feteasca neagra grapes are usually fruit-forward, complex and structured, wines that often are compared to merlot and cabernet franc, mostly due to their body, robust tannins and elegant textures. There is a rising demand for feteasca neagra wines on the regional as well as on the international markets and many wine experts consider this variety to be the visit card of romanian wines.

The Mehedinti wine region is situated in the Carpathian foothills, benefiting from the moderate continental climate influenced by the nearby Danube river. The landscape, marked by rolling hills and valley terraces, provides excellent drainage and ample sunlight, crucial for grape cultivation. The hilly landscapes of Mehedinti area, are characterized by warm summers and relatively mild winters, which form almost ideal conditions for ripening grapes. Summers, though generally warm, are mitigated by cool nights, thanks to the proximity of dense forests and mountains. This diurnal temperature variation is vital for preserving natural acidity while allowing the grapes to achieve full phenolic ripeness and develop complex aromatic compounds. The soils here, part of the larger Getic Piedmont (specifically the Motru Piedmont), exhibits a varied lithological structure and rich minerality. This diverse soil composition provides excellent drainage and a broad spectrum of nutrients, which impart a specific mineral character to the wines produced here.
color: deep garnet color
clarity: hazy garnet hues

In the glass, the wine presents presents an alluring deep garnet color, hinting at both concentration and depth, gracefully transitioning into hazy garnet shades at the rim of the glass.

intensity: rich & oaky-savory
fruit character: ripe & dehydrated

The olfactory journey reveals a rich and savory-oaky nose with a ripe to dehydrated fruit character. This is multi-layered and complex aromatic profile combines rich fruit nuances with delicate, savory-oaky undertones. In the foreground, a vibrant medley of red and black berry fruits takes center stage, with notes of cranberry, sour cherry, black plum, dark cherry, and blackberry. These are elegantly interwoven with savory elements such as old leather, brown olive, iron, and a subtle hint of iodine, all uplifted by an elegant suggestion of cherry tree sap. As the aromas evolve, the background unveils a profound earthy layer, with notes of loam, clay, marl, and the distinct aroma of pencil lead. This is beautifully complemented by oaky and spicy notes, featuring toasted oakwood, nutmeg, sweet tobacco, cloves, and anise, further enriched by hints of dehydrated fruits and dried herbs, creating an aromatic tapestry of remarkable depth and personality.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high  | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: good
finish: long | aftertaste: crisp & seedy

On the palate, the wine delivers a remarkably rich and pleasantly-seedy palate, characterized by a savory touch of earthy delicacy. This is a an old-world styled Feteasca Neagra wine, that maintains a delicate balance between a rich fruit expression and the rustic footprint of its terroir. The mouthfeel feels dry and ample, immediately engaging with an exuberant acidity that provides a lively backbone, beautifully counterbalanced by a nicely integrated touch of alcoholic warmth. The tannins are ripe and pleasantly-seedy, offering a fine-grained texture. The flavors echo the nose, adding hints of liquorice, a medley of spices, and a rich abundance of dried black fruits interwoven with elegant hints of violets. All of this leads to a generous and persistent finish that is full of character, leaving an appealingly-seedy aftertaste that lingers beautifully for a while.

maturity: in its prime | drink now or within the next 2 years
verdict: great | a benchmark wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

Overall, this wine is a tribute to the Feteasca Neagra grape variety and the epitome of a modern-bred old-world expression. It manages to deliver the richness of the fruit alongside the delicate footprint of its place of origin. This is an ample, rich, and round wine, distinguished by a savory-earthy accent that prioritizes delicacy and finesse over mere structural power. It feels rich and pleasantly seedy, with an elegant spicy-oaky touch that speaks of a restrained and judicious use of oak. Voluptuous, round, and harmonious, this wine is all about elegance and delicacy, showcasing a complex and nicely structured palate that is remarkably well-balanced. It is one of the best Feteasca Neagra wines we have tasted so far. Currently in its prime form (the wine has already reached the summit of its drinking window), it offers pure enjoyment today or within the next two years. While further aging would transform it into a vintage wine with more tertiary notes, it would come at the expense of its vibrant fruit character, which is currently in perfect harmony. Our recommendation would be to enjoy it sooner rather than later, as it is always better to drink a wine a year too soon, than a day too late.

Given its rich and savory-delicate aromatic profile, this wine demands a dish that can complement its elegant complexity. We would suggest pairing it with a slow-braised wild boar ragu served over handmade pappardelle. The gamey notes of the wild boar will find a perfect counterpoint in the wine’s savory notes and ripe black fruits. The wine’s vibrant acidity will cut through the richness of the ragu, while its delicate, earthy undertones will beautifully echo and enhance the depth of flavor in the dish. The firm, persistent tannins will match the tender texture of the meat, creating a harmonious and truly memorable tasting experience. Enjoy!
CATLEYA | Steaua Fara Nume | Feteasca Neagra | 2019
variety: feteasca neagra
country: Romania | Oltenia
region: Mehedinti-Corcova
rating: 94.6

The name 'Steaua Fără Nume' (The Nameless Star) is a homage to the esteemed writer Mihail Sebastian, the author of the play bearing the same name. Sebastian penned his masterpiece in Corcova, having resided for a time at the estate of his friend, Anton Bibescu, lending this wine a poetic connection to its historical roots and the very land it hails from.
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