BABICH | Black Label | Marlborough | Pinot Noir | 2023
pinot noir

© We will be evaluating wines in no particular order on no particular schedule. Just stay tuned and you will never miss our reviews. If the wine is tasted more than once, the rating table will be updated so as to reflect all the new impressions and observations. We hope you will enjoy it!

The Babich family’s winemaking journey in New Zealand dates back to 1916, establishing them as the nation’s most experienced family-owned winery. This legacy began with Josip Babich, who, in 1912, was thought insane for planting vines in remote New Zealand. His vision and ingenuity laid the foundation for over a century of innovation and winemaking excellence. Today we are going to review a quite intriguing, single-varietal pinot noir wine from Marlborough, which is New Zealand‘s most famous wine-producing area – Black Label Marlborough Pinot Noir 2023 by Babich. Pinot Noir is considered the world’s most noble red grape variety and has reached a legendary status mainly due to its ability to produce wines of unparalleled elegance. The grape itself is very difficult to cultivate – it has thin skins, as a result it is prone to rot and various vineyard disease, and is genetically unstable, meaning that it mutates easily (many of Burgundy’s other grapes, such as Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc, originated from these mutations). But when handled with great care, Pinot Noir is capable to deliver the very best expressions of terrior like no other grape variety, making it the ultimate storyteller of a place. Burgundy remains the spiritual home of Pinot Noir, where some of the most expensive and sought-after wines in the world are produced. Outside of France, Pinot Noir has adapted well in cooler climates such as Oregon’s Willamette Valley, New Zealand’s Central Otago, and some of the southernmost wine regions in the world, like Western Cape‘s Elim.

In the cool, maritime climate of Marlborough, Pinot Noir finds a perfect home, developing rich aromatics and retaining a vibrant acidity that is often lost in warmer climates. While Marlborough is globally celebrated for its vibrant Sauvignon Blanc wines, it has increasingly garnered recognition for producing elegant and savory Pinot Noir wines. Today’s wine is crafted from 100% Pinot Noir grapes that were de-stemmed but not crushed and subjected to a pre-ferment cold soak on skins to extract more color and aromatic depth, and then fermented with 60% wild yeast. After fermentation, the wine was aged for 10 months in 228L french oak barriques, with additional bottle ageing time before it was deemed ready for the market release, resulting in a wine that is both elegant and representative of its origins.

Marlborough is New Zealand’s largest and most famous wine region, located at the northeastern tip of the South Island. Its cool maritime climate, abundant sunshine, low rainfall, and significant diurnal temperature range allow grapes to ripen slowly, retaining high natural acidity and aromatic intensity. The region’s soils are deep, free-draining alluvial gravels and sandy loams, particularly across the Wairau Valley, while the cooler Awatere Valley features stone-rich soils and stronger maritime influences. Sauvignon Blanc is the region’s flagship grape variety, producing intensely aromatic wines with notes of citrus, passion fruit, gooseberry, and fresh herbs, often accompanied by a distinctive mineral character. Marlborough also produces excellent Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Riesling. Its combination of ripe fruit, vibrant acidity, and pronounced aromatics has established Marlborough as one of the world’s most flamboyant wine regions.

color: medium-deep garnet color
clarity: hazy copper shades at the rim

In the glass, the wine presents a captivating medium-deep garnet color, with hazy copper shades at the rim of the glass.

intensity: rich & savory-delicate
fruit character: ripe

The aromatic profile is rich, with a savory-delicate accent that embodies a classic, old-world Pinot Noir. In the foreground, a medley of bright red fruits notes take center stage, dominated by sour cherry, red cherry, cranberry, redcurrant, and red plum. These are beautifully intertwined with delicate savory undertones of barnyard, old leather, musk, game, and brown olive. Further adding to the wine’s complexity are subtle terroir-driven hints of marl, loam, clay, and pencil lead, accompanied by delicate touches of iron and subtle hints of iodine, alongside elegant nuances of dried herbs. As the aroma unfolds, the background reveals delicate earthy hints of pencil lead, granite, slate, and dust, complemented by mediterranean herbs such as thyme, sage, bay leaf, rosemary, and oregano, with rustic nuances of horse saddle, tomato stem, and wormwood. A subtle touch of oak-derived elegance rounds off this sophisticated olfactory experience, ensuring the oak plays a supporting rather than dominant role.

sweetness: bone dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: medium+ | balance: good
finish: long | aftertaste: bitter-crisp

On the palate, the wine delivers a firm and bitter-crisp mouthfeel that is both invigorating and refined, leading to a velvety-seedy texture. It embodies a rustic yet delicate accent, defining itself as a textbook example of a New Zealand Pinot Noir. The wine tastes bone dry, underscored by a vibrant acidity that enlivens the entire palate, perfectly balanced by a well-integrated touch of alcoholic warmth that adds depth without overwhelming. The tannins are beautifully managed, feeling both seedy and velvety, providing structure and a tactile richness. All this culminates in a crisp and pleasantly-bitter aftertaste that lingers gracefully, inviting another sip and completing a truly harmonious gustatory journey.

maturity: developing | drink now or within the next 2 years
verdict: great | a benchmark wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

All in all, this wine is an example of a classical, New Zealand Pinot Noir – rich, firm, and savory – a wine that represents both the grape variety and its place of origin. It delivers a vibrant fruit expression alongside an unmistakable local footprint – a testament to its focus on grape expression and terroir earthiness, rather than sheer opulence or depth. A pure-bred New Zealand Pinot Noir that is simultaneously fruity-vibrant, savory-delicate, and oaky-elegant, vinified in a modern style that preserves varietal nuance while embracing fruit vibrancy and terroir-driven earthiness. It feels well-balanced and structured, with a multi-layered and sophisticated aromatic profile, yet remains quite restrained in its use of oak, allowing the wine’s wild and untamed spirit to shine through. This wine is still developing and can be either enjoyed today or cellared for the next 2 years.

Given its savory-herbal character, this Pinot Noir would be a fantastic pairing partner for a stir-fry lamb and eggplant or a steak and mushroom pie. The firm structure and vibrant red fruit notes, complemented by its savory and earthy undertones, would create an extraordinary harmony with these rich dishes. For a more adventurous pairing, consider a pan-seared duck breast with a sour cherry reduction and a side of wild mushroom risotto. The gamey richness of the duck would beautifully complement the wine’s savory notes, while the sour cherry reduction would echo and enhance the red fruit character. Cheers!
BABICH | Black Label | Marlborough | Pinot Noir | 2023
variety: pinot noir
country: New Zealand
region: Marlborough
rating: 94.7

Beyond their century-long heritage, Babich estate is known for keeping things fun, focused, and firmly vine-first, tackling everything from canopy management to pest pressure with calm heads and a healthy dose of humor. There’s even a charming anecdote about someone driving a tractor in their underpants – a testament to their lighthearted approach while chasing the perfect season. The Babich winery proudly boasts a four-legged Chief of Staff, ensuring morale remains as high as the quality of their grapes. It’s this blend of serious dedication and playful spirit that truly sets Babich apart.
© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!