KISS GÁBOR | Enigma | Merlot | 2022
merlot

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Gábor Kiss is a visionary winemaker with a relentless pursuit of refinement and an individualistic approach to winemaking that is evident in every detail, from his meticulously tended vineyards to his immaculately clean cellar housing an array of French barrels. Gábor’s unwavering commitment to quality and the authentic expression of the Villány terroir is reflected in his preference for spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts and a philosophy of minimal intervention in winemaking. His ultimate aim is to produce wines that are concentrated, intensely fruity, and genuinely reflective of Villány’s immense potential.
Today we are going to review a quite remarkable, single-varietal merlot wine that comes from the warm, Villány region, which is Hungary‘s most famous wine region for red wines – Enigma Merlot 2022 by Kiss Gábor. Merlot is usually regarded as the underdog to the highly priced cabernet sauvignon or cabernet franc varieties, but make no mistake, merlot wine is first class, as it is more versatile and ripens earlier than both cabernet grapes, responds well to oak ageing and can be grown in both, cool climate and warm climate regions with the same success. This particular wine is crafted from grapes sourced from the Bocor vineyard, planted with selected small-berried, thick-skinned French clones, specifically chosen for their inherent ability to produce highly concentrated wines with high acidity, even in the warm Villány climate. The hand-picked grapes were fermented using only indigenous yeasts (a critical step that preserves their natural character and the terroir-driven flavours). The final wine has been then aged for 18 months in 500-liter French oak barrels (new and at second-fill), with additional time of bottle ageing before it was deemed ready for the market release.

The ‘Enigma‘ Merlot, first conceived and crafted in 2009, stemmed from the winemaker’s philosophical musings on what truly makes a wine unique. Following the creation of his famous ‘Code‘ Cabernet Franc, he felt that this exceptional Merlot, with its mysterious yet potent character, deserved a name that conveyed intrigue and profound depth, thus, Enigma was born.

Nestled in southern Hungary, Villány is one of the country’s most prestigious wine regions. Benefiting from a warm and dry climate with mediterranean influences, the region provides excellent conditions for cultivating red grape varieties. The long and sunny growing season ensures rich concentration in the fruit, while cool nights help preserve freshness and balance. The soils here are primarily clay and loam, with limestone and loess sub-soil, offering both good moisture retention and mineral depth that encourage healthy vine growth and complex flavor development. This unique terroir yields structured wines that with remarkable depth. While Cabernet Franc is the region’s champion grape variety, producing elegant and complex wines, Villány is also famous for its Kékfrankos, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon wines.

color: medium-deep | ruby color
clarity: hazy ruby shades at the rim

In the glass, the wine showcases an inviting medium-deep ruby color, with hazy ruby shades that gently linger at the rim of the glass. This subtle haziness is a result of the wine’s unfiltered nature, promising a wine of genuine depth and unadulterated character.

intensity: rich & savory-delicate
fruit character: ripe & underripe

On the first nose, this wine unveils a rich and savory-delicate aromatic profile. The fruit character is ripe to subtly underripe. In the foreground, a vibrant medley of red fruits bursts forth, including tart cherries, cranberries, sour cherries, redcurrants, goji berries, and red plums. These rich fruit notes are nicely interwoven with a savory layer, evoking aromas of iron, iodine, veal, and old leather, thus lending a compelling aromatic depth. A subtle hint of red pepper adds an intriguing spicy dimension. As the wine breathes, the background reveals elegant earthy undertones of marl, clay, and loam, grounding the wine in its unique Villány terroir. Nicely integrated oak notes, suggestive of sun-dried oakwood and the subtle essence of oaktree bark, emerge with a gentle presence. These are beautifully complemented by refined layers of cherry tree wood and the delicate, candied sweetness of kirsch cherries, adding further complexity without ever overpowering the purity of the fruit.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: good
finish: medium+ | aftertaste: crisp & tart

On the palate, the wine reveals a remarkably crisp and subtly tart mouthfeel, showcasing a multi-layered and complex aromatic profile that masterfully balances the inherent richness of its fruit with delicate, savory-earthy undertones. It delivers an exuberant acidity that feels invigorating and refreshing, complemented by a seedy-crisp mouthfeel that contributes to a nicely structured and firm palate. This is a quite ample and voluptuous single-varietal Merlot wine, characterized by its pleasant seediness and appealing varietal typicity. The wine tastes dry, with a noticeable touch of alcoholic warmth that adds to its substantial depth and expansive feel. The tannins are pronouncedly seedy, providing a firm, tactile grip that not only supports the wine’s current structure but also strongly suggests considerable aging potential. The finish is medium+ and culminates in a refreshingly crispy-tart aftertaste, that invites for yet another sip.

maturity: developing | drink now or within the next 3 to 5 years
verdict: fine | an excellent wine | a wine of premium quality with good potential

Overall, this is a very well-made Merlot wine, presenting a savory-delicate aromatic profile and a rich, textured palate. It resonates with an earthy and rustic charm, imbued with undeniable hints of its unique Villány terroir and classic Merlot opulence. What this wine lacks today is perhaps the plush roundness and overt softness often associated with some top-rated Merlots. Gábor Kiss’s judicious and restrained hand with oak ensures that the wine’s intricate fruit nuances, powerful structure, and profound depth are allowed to shine brightly, rather than being masked by excessive wood. This Merlot brilliantly combines a delicate elegance with nuanced power, offering a pure and authentic expression of the grape in its distinguished Villány home. In its current state, it is still in the development phase, therefore it is highly recommended to be cellared for another 3 to 5 years. This additional time will allow its diverse components to fully integrate, harmonizing the tannins and developing further intricate layers of complexity, ultimately promising an even more rewarding and profound experience at its peak.

To complement the savory-delicate and rustic character of the wine, we would suggest to pair it with a seared duck breast with a wild cherry and rosemary reduction sauce. The inherent richness of the duck and the tart sweetness of the cherry-rosemary sauce would beautifully complement the wine’s red fruit profile and its crisp, tart finish. The wine’s seedy tannins and exuberant acidity would cut through the fat content of the duck, while its earthy and savory notes would echo and amplify the umami notes of the meat, creating an authentic and unforgettable culinary experience. Cheers!
KISS GÁBOR | Enigma | Merlot | 2022
variety: merlot
country: Hungary
region: Villány
rating: 93.7

The ‘Enigma’ name for this Merlot first emerged in 2009, a few years after winemaker Gábor Kiss famously named his Cabernet Franc ‘Code.’ He philosophized that if his Cabernet Franc represented a ‘Code,’ symbolizing the unique and inimitable fingerprint of the region, the varietal, and the winemaker’s craft, then the inherent mystery and distinctiveness of this particular Merlot, especially how its unique French clone behaved within the Bocor vineyard, deserved the profound name ‘Enigma’.

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